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Sigma DP0 Quattro shots

apsphoto

New member
Wonderful shots Steven. I have been on the fence for this camera for a long time, fighting the urge to get it. I have a DP2Q and a DP3m, already. There are some really nice shots in the flickr pool with the DP0Q that really having me wanting one:
https://www.flickr.com/groups/sigma-dp0-quattro/pool/

I also read a review today on Sean Reid's site(subscription site) about the 0Q, he rates the lens very high, with very little aberration.

Alan
 

Quentin_Bargate

Well-known member
Good to see some high quality shots from the DP0. So much better than the dross served up by Sigma.

Pity it may be too little, too late.
 

apsphoto

New member
Sigma USA has added the DP0 Quattro with LVF viewfinder kit to their store for $1099, so they are putting in the viewfinder for about half price.

Alan
 

biglouis

Well-known member
First shots with the DP0Q which despite my hesitation my will power finally acceded to on Thursday. I have the camera in time to give it a thorough thrashing along the back roads of Spitalfields and then the South Coast over the next two weeks. I will attempt to write a review once I have done that.

First impressions: IQ = 10, Ergonomics = 5. No one ever said shooting with a Sigma compact was easy... Sean Reid is correct - this lens is powerfully sharp from edge to edge even at f4.

DP0Q-->SPP 6.3 export full sized TIFF to LR-->export as resized jpeg

f4, iso200 - focussed on the 'keep clear' sign on the door.



Click here for a full size jpeg exported from SPP 6.3 (4MB file).

I think if you look at the elephant's head in the bas relief above the door you cannot but be impressed at the performance at f4. I also have a comparison shot taken with my A7R and 21/1.8 Ultron at the same aperture, iso and speed and it is softer.

LouisB
 

Stoneage

Member
Here are the .x3f files from the DP0Q
Thank you for the RAWs, always appreciated.
The colors and the lens look very good in my opinion.
The "bridge" shows blown highlights even with -0.7 exposure correction. That's still the weak point of Quattro.
As mentioned in another thread, Kalpanika-converter handles the highlights better. SPP overexposure correction setting helps also, but produces colored artifacts.
I wish Sigma will release this 14mm (21mm) lens for the SD1.
 

furtle

Active member
A few more. Still learning the Q0's ways. I've started bracketing -0.7, 0, +0.7 but setting the exposure compensation at -0.3. So, the bracketing is -1.0, -0.3, +0.3. It seems all of the -1.0 photos are the best and need the least work in SPP.

Great cookshop!



Banbury market



Canal boat mayhem in Banbury with a 21:9 in camera crop



A wonderful orchard that I have photographed before.

 

Sapphie

Member
Great shots!

Some samples I have seen from Qs seem quite noisy even at low ISO, e.g. in the sky area. Have you had that experience? With the Merrills we became used to slight overexposure then reducing exposure and boosting fill light to make good shadows.

Looks like Q's need a more accurate exposure to prevent highlights blowing?

Lee
 

furtle

Active member
Great shots!

Some samples I have seen from Qs seem quite noisy even at low ISO, e.g. in the sky area. Have you had that experience? With the Merrills we became used to slight overexposure then reducing exposure and boosting fill light to make good shadows.

Looks like Q's need a more accurate exposure to prevent highlights blowing?

Lee

Hi Lee,

Thanks. The only Quattro I have is the DP0, so, cannot compare with the other Qs. Without a doubt, compared with the Merrills, it is easy to blow the highlights on the Quattro. In fact, there is a highlight warning that can be switched on which will warn of over exposure when you review the shots but I don't really bother to look at anything I've shot on the camera screen; if it's in the can, it's in the can.

As far as noise is concerned, with the Q I am now trying SPP Sharpness at -1.0. For noise reduction I set Luminance in the centre and Chroma at the far left but to be honest I haven't a clue what I'm doing with these!

I use LR to adjust the tiff files and add a touch of noise reduction and no sharpening. This seems to sort out the 'grain' in the sky.

I think from this post, you will get the message that I'm only on the foothills for the learning curve....

Steve
 

Sapphie

Member
Thanks Steve.

Well good luck and I hope you enjoy it and do keep us updated on progress! I have the DP2M. I went mad and bought all three but then found I wasn't making the most use of them and kept having angst about which one to use, so sold the DP1M and DP3M to satisfy some GAS for the Fuji X100T. Looking on here again recently has re-kindled some love for the DP2M so I am taking it to *sunny* Cornwall for a fortnight. The DP0Q does entice but I have the 14mm lens for my X-Pro 1, so can't justify it at the moment.

Lee

Hi Lee,

Thanks. The only Quattro I have is the DP0, so, cannot compare with the other Qs. Without a doubt, compared with the Merrills, it is easy to blow the highlights on the Quattro. In fact, there is a highlight warning that can be switched on which will warn of over exposure when you review the shots but I don't really bother to look at anything I've shot on the camera screen; if it's in the can, it's in the can.

As far as noise is concerned, with the Q I am now trying SPP Sharpness at -1.0. For noise reduction I set Luminance in the centre and Chroma at the far left but to be honest I haven't a clue what I'm doing with these!

I use LR to adjust the tiff files and add a touch of noise reduction and no sharpening. This seems to sort out the 'grain' in the sky.

I think from this post, you will get the message that I'm only on the foothills for the learning curve....

Steve
 

Hulyss Bowman

Active member
I changed my mind about the DP0 Q. I still hate the shape of this camera but I find it is the best Quattro performance to date. Sand noise almost non existent, great sharpness across the whole frame (unlike the DP1Q), a bit less DR than a Merrill but yet, the lens itself merit a price.

That said I have some faith revival (!) into the brand when Kasuto Yamaki speak. Hope this is not only PR, especially about the next DP/SD.

http://blog.mingthein.com/2015/08/27/exclusive-interivew-kazuto-yamaki-ceo-sigma/
 

Andrew Lamb

New member
A couple more 'snaps' from the Q0. Honington, Warwickshire. I think the colours are a bit better than the Merrills and I've done nothing to them in SPP or LR nor any lens adjustments. There is no questioning the sharpness of the lens. The lower photo is the 21:9 in-camera crop which is such a great feature; this is my new Xpan!

I do think camera shake is something I need to take great care about, even at up to 1/200th. It really isn't helpful holding the camera, with such a long lens, out in front of you just to be able to squint at the screen. I'll look for an optical view finder which will go some way to resolving this issue. Not the loupe as I don't need that and it looks bloody weird. I'm definitely keeping this camera and the great thing is, I'm still learning.



Honington! Wow. I used to have friends there and visited it regularly thirty years ago. Blimey :(

Anyway, nice photos. Congrats!
 

furtle

Active member
Today, I deliberately decided to take some photos with the DP0Q in very tricky light conditions. I got even more aggressive with the bracketing and most of the following shots are at -1.7. The car, the church lych gate and the windmill have me and the camera in deep shade. The lych gate shot I was in a really gloomy spot and cranked the iso to 400 and handheld the shot at 1/60 f4. With this shot, the church was badly blown as this was in sun but I played around on SPP and got it pretty good but it is still pale. The car is under a mix of deep shade and bright sun with plenty of potential for highlights to blow. But the camera has made the wheels look a bit oval! See what you think but I'm pleased with the camera.

Honington Church Lych Gate



Alfa Giulietta



Compton Wynyates Windmill



A couple of others in good light:





And another pylon



And this is the church in the first photo

 

xpatUSA

Member
Today, I deliberately decided to take some photos with the DP0Q in very tricky light conditions.

And another pylon

I'm curious about the blues in your sky shots. According to RawTherapee on a couple of downloads, the hues are around 210 degs (cyan) which is OK but the saturation is generally over 99% which seems a bit fierce. And the brightness of the blues is only around 50% in the upper parts of the images, perhaps signifying a pretty heavy use of contrast in-camera or in post?
 

furtle

Active member
I'm curious about the blues in your sky shots. According to RawTherapee on a couple of downloads, the hues are around 210 degs (cyan) which is OK but the saturation is generally over 99% which seems a bit fierce. And the brightness of the blues is only around 50% in the upper parts of the images, perhaps signifying a pretty heavy use of contrast in-camera or in post?
hello Xpatusa, yep, I agree, the blues are mighty blue. I've done nothing to then in LR or SPP. The camera is on daylight white balance for these latest pics and this does seem to saturate the colours much more than AWB; which I have always used before. dunno, I just tend to shoot and look at the images later on.

I used -1.7 exposure in most of these shots and it makes the camera review and SPP thumbnails look really, really dark but when SPP develops the files, all is good; even with SPP at 0 or -0.3 (say) exposure.

There is more to this camera than, at first, meets the eye. I don't think I'm close to finding it's potential.
 

Sapphie

Member
That's a bit weird, though, i.e. -1.7 in-camera, expectedly the images would look dark for camera review bit then SPP is OK with no tweaks or just -0.3?

Lee

hello Xpatusa, yep, I agree, the blues are mighty blue. I've done nothing to then in LR or SPP. The camera is on daylight white balance for these latest pics and this does seem to saturate the colours much more than AWB; which I have always used before. dunno, I just tend to shoot and look at the images later on.

I used -1.7 exposure in most of these shots and it makes the camera review and SPP thumbnails look really, really dark but when SPP develops the files, all is good; even with SPP at 0 or -0.3 (say) exposure.

There is more to this camera than, at first, meets the eye. I don't think I'm close to finding it's potential.
 

xpatUSA

Member
hello Xpatusa, yep, I agree, the blues are mighty blue. I've done nothing to then in LR or SPP. The camera is on daylight white balance for these latest pics and this does seem to saturate the colours much more than AWB; which I have always used before. dunno, I just tend to shoot and look at the images later on.

I used -1.7 exposure in most of these shots and it makes the camera review and SPP thumbnails look really, really dark but when SPP develops the files, all is good; even with SPP at 0 or -0.3 (say) exposure.

There is more to this camera than, at first, meets the eye. I don't think I'm close to finding it's potential.
Hi furtle, I don't have a Quattro but, when I bought a Merrill, I noticed that the picture setting for the in-cam JPEGs (sharpness, contrast, saturation, etc) came up on the sliders even if I only shot and opened a X3F but you've probably already noticed that, eh?

Ted
 

furtle

Active member
Hi furtle, I don't have a Quattro but, when I bought a Merrill, I noticed that the picture setting for the in-cam JPEGs (sharpness, contrast, saturation, etc) came up on the sliders even if I only shot and opened a X3F but you've probably already noticed that, eh?

Ted
I'm not sure I understand you. If it's about in cam jpegs; I've never done these.
 

furtle

Active member
Here you go Ted. I've looked closer at the LR controls and dropped the blue saturation from zero and increase the blue luminance. Not really sure what I'm doing but here is the photo again

 

darr

Well-known member
I used -1.7 exposure in most of these shots and it makes the camera review and SPP thumbnails look really, really dark but when SPP develops the files, all is good; even with SPP at 0 or -0.3 (say) exposure.
Why are you shooting at -1.7? Did the histogram (before the -1.7 adjustment) blow-off the right side? If not, try shooting bracketed with -.3, 0, +.3 and -.7, 0, and +.7 to see what the sensor captures. I'd be interested in seeing the brackets if you are up to it.

Kind regards,
Darr
 
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