Fave papers so far:
Epson VFA
Epson color profile excellent + Eric Chan ABW profile. Amazing blacks, saturation. Fave color matte paper. B&W with stock Epson profile - nah.
Harman FB AL (not WT)
Amazing detail, but larger sizes swell too much in heavily ink areas (paper takes on a wave form shape) for my 3800s pizza wheels liking (not an issue with your 7900) - JUST scuffs a couple. My fave for B&W but handling issue at larger sizes relegates it to #2 to the excellent GFS. Also handles more like a wet print when just inked - it feels 'wet'. May go back to it for more printing once the guilty wheels wear down - or I decide to remove them.
Ilford GFS.
Eric Chan's ABW profile & custom color on way. Warmer tone than Harman Fb AL. Stock Ilford profile - yuck. Great B&W using the custom ABW profile. Great detail, inexpensive, handles well. Like how paper handles better than Harman FB. 17x22 no issue at all on my printer. Heavily inked areas don't swell/cause distortion as much as Harman FB.
Epson Exh Fiber
Great detail, brilliant color, good blacks. Very brilliant white paper. Slight texture vs GFS. Where GFS would be say Kodak 160NC, EEF would be 160VC or maybe Velvia. Lots of color 'pop'.
Not found anything in a Hahnemuehle, Crane, etc that appeals to me as much as the preceding - so far. Even with custom ABW profiles, tend to find weak blacks, or in color, poor blacks and low-sat colors. Part of issue is almost everything other than basic P&S inkjet papers around here need to be ordered in. Makes testing a costly PITA.
Now that said, paper is SO very personal (and dependent on the shot in question), I'd pick up as many letter-sized sample packs as you can - or borrow samples from fellow shooters and print and play. Use the the same image, same USM, same saturation, etc - no attempt to equalize contrast/colors between papers. Just change the paper profile.
You blow thru some paper and ink, but enables you to narrow down what you'll be dealing with before you blow $$ on larger paper orders - and if a marginal paper could become a fave with a little extra PP TLC, custom profile, etc.