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Turn off the lights.:grin:any other possibility to do the black reference besides putting the cap on? Am I missing something?
Isn’t the lever on copal shutters more to open the shutter, rather than close it? I always think of it as the ground glass “preview” lever. At least with LF film you basically want your shutter completely closed at all times unless you’re composing or exposing.Turn off the lights.:grin:
Being more constructive; my understanding is that Rodenstock's aperture unit, unlike a Copal shutter, cannot be completely closed.
Copal shutters have a lever that does this.
(I never precisely understood the purpose of that feature, since cocking the shutter does automatically close the shutter. Certainly wasn't designed in view of P1 black frame requirement.)
Isn’t the lever on copal shutters more to open the shutter, rather than close it? I always think of it as the ground glass “preview” lever. At least with LF film you basically want your shutter completely closed at all times unless you’re composing or exposing.
Yes, muscle memory is very powerful and hard to fight! I recently demoed an IQ4 which required a black frame after many (but not all) exposures, and I used the lever to close the copal shutter when prompted to do so. Other than this moment, however, it needed to remain open for live view and exposing (using the electronic shutter).Yes, you are right. I got it somehow muddled up.
Funny how difficult it can be to describe something known only instinctively (muscle memory) as compared to intellectually (brain memory).
In case your dealer didn't step you through this... the IQ4 can be set to "pre-recorded" dark frame in the menu, which will never ask for a dark frame. That is the only way I use the back, and how most of our clients use the back.Yes, muscle memory is very powerful and hard to fight! I recently demoed an IQ4 which required a black frame after many (but not all) exposures, and I used the lever to close the copal shutter when prompted to do so. Other than this moment, however, it needed to remain open for live view and exposing (using the electronic shutter).
Thanks Doug! I thought there was something along those lines but my dealer seemed to be either unaware of it (doubtful as he is quite technical and is the primary Phase One specialist at my dealer and a regular user of the backs, but certainly possible), or preferred the "old-school" method. There was a lot to go over with the back so I didn't want to dwell too much on dark frame capture.In case your dealer didn't step you through this... the IQ4 can be set to "pre-recorded" dark frame in the menu, which will never ask for a dark frame. That is the only way I use the back, and how most of our clients use the back.
Bye bye dark frames!
Presuming it was Walter and the team at B3K, they are really good, so if he didn't mention it that's probably more owed to the fact there are so many cool features to go over on an IQ4 for first time users.Thanks Doug! I thought there was something along those lines but my dealer seemed to be either unaware of it (doubtful as he is quite technical and is the primary Phase One specialist at my dealer and a regular user of the backs, but certainly possible), or preferred the "old-school" method. There was a lot to go over with the back so I didn't want to dwell too much on dark frame capture.
Does the little "moon logo" button on the shooting screen toggle this function? Or is that there to manually capture a dark frame?
It was indeed Walter. Now that I think about it he may have mentioned "pre-recorded dark frames" while going over the back, but since I was expecting to hear "no more need for dark frames" then I perhaps missed it.Presuming it was Walter and the team at B3K, they are really good, so if he didn't mention it that's probably more owed to the fact there are so many cool features to go over on an IQ4 for first time users.
Two options to switch to Pre-recorded Darkframes:
1) Swipe up to access the Menu. Navigate to Menu > File Settings > Black Ref. > in this menu, select “Prerecorded”
2) Tap the moon icon on the digital back screen. If there is a line through the moon icon, then the digital back will use Prerecorded Black Reference frames.
(2) is faster but I sometimes forget exactly what each moon icon-state means (they have changed over the last few years and iterations of IQ3/IQ4 firmware) so I typically do (1) since it is unambiguous in exact meaning.
I also had a few similar incidences where I wondered why I am not getting a live view on my IQ3.It was quite difficult for me to wrap me brain around this new sequence on the shutter and I often got things “backwards” and exposed the “dark” frame with the shutter open and tried to expose my frame with the shutter closed... I got the hang of it eventually but it was tough!
No dark frame and no CCC shoot required.Bye bye dark frames!
For completeness it's probably best to say "LCC dramatically less important/frequent".No dark frame and no CCC shoot required.
Two substantial workflow advantages of the IQ4 over the IQ3.
He's a good and knowledgable guy.It was indeed Walter. Now that I think about it he may have mentioned "pre-recorded dark frames" while going over the back, but since I was expecting to hear "no more need for dark frames" then I perhaps missed it.
When using pre-recorded dark frames, is it normal to have some hot pixels present in the image? I thought I had a bum sensor, but then tied the flaming hot pixels I was seeing to be present only when using pre-recorded dark frames.In case your dealer didn't step you through this... the IQ4 can be set to "pre-recorded" dark frame in the menu, which will never ask for a dark frame. That is the only way I use the back, and how most of our clients use the back.
Bye bye dark frames!
Thank you for this! Unfortunately I have some stuck/hot pixels visible at fast shutter speeds when using prerecorded dark frames. I haven’t tested ALL shutter speeds, but they are certainly visible in the 1/60-1/250 range. Sounds like this is not normal...Just double checked.. manual page 59: It is currently not recommended to use the option for shutter speeds longer than 1/10 second.