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Colour accuracy

Will

New member
But you can only do this with the wonderful GRD2 macro. Both the others would need another lens or lens adapter.

 

Riley

New member
you can tell which is which by the DoF in each shot
and the Canon is obvious because of its washed out colour
im thinking that for me the foveon looks the best
but im surprised how good the GRD2 looks
 

Brian Mosley

New member
Hi Will, it's almost worth having a GRD2 just for the macro! that is awesome!

As for colour accuracy, I'm confused about the DP1... Sean's review suggests the DP1 is highly accurate at base ISO, but I've seen some truly awful renditions of reds - funky cam extraordinaire! lol

Did you do anything to adjust colour/white balance on your DP1 shot above?

Thanks Will

Brian
 

jonoslack

Active member
5D Looks really good until you put it next to the DP1 image.
HI Will
Interesting comparison - I agree, the DP1 colours do look good here. Greens is one of my big horror / bugbear issues, The M8 does a fairly good job, The Ricoh's are, IMHO always a little too cool; Only Olympus seem to get it right if you use auto white balance.

That 5D shot looks just like I was getting from the D3 - nasty yellow greens. I've actually given up using AWB on the D3 (in normal daylight), as it varies a lot between shot to shot in similar conditions - It seems much easier to make small corrections in post when you're starting from the same place. Of course, using a grey card doesn't help, because, in evening light you want evening light! I just use daylight or cloudy (depending) and fix later if necessary.


That 5D shot looks just like the D3 shots I disliked. Did you use AWB?

Whatever, I'm not even slightly interested in a DP1, but I have been impressed with the greens on your shot . . . and the lovely wonderful splendid subway shot.
 

jonoslack

Active member
As for colour accuracy, I'm confused about the DP1... Sean's review suggests the DP1 is highly accurate at base ISO, but I've seen some truly awful renditions of reds - funky cam extraordinaire! lol
I agree that Cam is funky and extraordinaire . . . but isn't that a bit of a non sequitur ?
:ROTFL:

Reds are always the hardest - Have you been using AWB with it? Or allowing the camera to make vague and questionable decisions?

I think most of us Olympus people are making the mistake of trusting AWB in other cameras (after all, it's so good in the Oly cameras).
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Hi Will, it's almost worth having a GRD2 just for the macro! that is awesome!

As for colour accuracy, I'm confused about the DP1... Sean's review suggests the DP1 is highly accurate at base ISO, but I've seen some truly awful renditions of reds - funky cam extraordinaire! lol

Did you do anything to adjust colour/white balance on your DP1 shot above?

Thanks Will

Brian
Over the years the biggest issue i have seen with many camera's comes down to the reds. It's the hardest i think to reproduce well on any of them. I seen them really bad in a lot of camera's. The only camera's that reproduced red as it should be is the DMR and the M8 , now i have not really shot the ZD camera much to figure it out yet but the secret I think is the reds and if there correct than usually all the colors seem to be okay but this is the little secret in my book if you can get a accurate red than you should be okay if not that everything tends to be off. The thing to watch for and seen in many is orange red. Now you have to watch different raw processors also which can vary slightly between the programs at reproducing a good red.
 

Brian Mosley

New member
I agree that Cam is funky and extraordinaire . . . but isn't that a bit of a non sequitur ?
:ROTFL:

Reds are always the hardest - Have you been using AWB with it? Or allowing the camera to make vague and questionable decisions?

I think most of us Olympus people are making the mistake of trusting AWB in other cameras (after all, it's so good in the Oly cameras).
Sorry Jono, perhaps I should have described it as extraordinarily funky :ROTFL:

I've been using AWB at time of capture, and then switching to Sunlight in SPP as necessary... perhaps, judging by Sandy on dpreview, I should set the camera to sunlight and then switch whitebalance in SPP?

Kind Regards

Brian
 

cam

Active member
here are two that i think the reds came out pretty good. ISO400 in difficult lighting -- overcast and sunny all at the same time. (then again, colour's not my bag :p )
 
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Will

New member
Thanks for all the responses.

I used the auto white balance on each camera. The GRD2 is a Hard setting jpg from the camera. The 5D and DP1 I did some levels and sharpening on but otherwise un-touched.

I find the DP1 to be really very good on greens and subtle pinks, but I feel it's reds have a very slight pink rather than orange bias. As I have said already though, overall I think it is very close to real life colours with little adjustment.

Here is the DP1 file again but straight from RAW to jpg with everything set to neutral.
 

Will

New member
I like the motorbike one Cam. That green bin is striking. Curiously the red on the two posters comes out differently.
 
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jonoslack

Active member
Sorry Jono, perhaps I should have described it as extraordinarily funky :ROTFL:
Well, I don't suppose that CAM minds whether you call her one or the other, although it's possible she might be a little irritated being referred to as 'it'.

I wish someone would call me extraordinarily funky.
I've been using AWB at time of capture, and then switching to Sunlight in SPP as necessary... perhaps, judging by Sandy on dpreview, I should set the camera to sunlight and then switch whitebalance in SPP?
Well, this was suggested to me on the Nikon section when I was having terrible trouble with my Greens - that the best bet is to use the camera sunlight or cloudy settings and then work on them from there.

The argument is that you have a level starting place and can easily supply batch corrections, whereas if you use the auto then the camera will apply different tint and temperature to each setting.

I'm convinced!
 

cam

Active member
I like the motorbike one Cam. That green bin is striking. Curiously the red on the two posters comes out differently.
neither of these are keepers -- i was practicing MF just to get my distance bearings and timings with my slow hand. but each had reds, at a higher ISO... like i said, the lighting was really odd. i checked again today (similar conditions) and the posters actually do look different when the hazy sun hits it at that hour. in other words, it was quite accurate. as for the greens, they do indeed stand out in these conditions (but i hate those bins!) and the reds can fade (except for day-glo posters)... i used Sunlight, btw. Overcast sucks.

Well, I don't suppose that CAM minds whether you call her one or the other, although it's possible she might be a little irritated being referred to as 'it'.

I wish someone would call me extraordinarily funky.
:ROTFL::ROTFL::ROTFL: you are from now on christened The Funk Man! :ROTFL::ROTFL::ROTFL:
 

Brian Mosley

New member
OK, I just popped into my backgarden with the DP1, the E-420 and the LX1. Here's the result :

Olympus E-420, Auto white balance, centre spot metered on centre flower (crop) :
1/500s f/5.0 at iso100


Sigma DP1, Sunshine white balance, centre spot metered as above :
1/125s f/8.0 at iso100


Panasonic LX1, Auto white balance, centre spot metered as above :
1/160s f/5.6 at iso80


Kind Regards

Brian
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
The Panasonic looks to have false colors in the green and the Sigma is a little yellow in the green but the reds are better in the Sigma. Also the pano is overexposed some also and the Sigma is holding the specular highlights better . Sigma is clearly better IMHO

Just more elbow room to work the files in the Sigma since the Dr and tonal range is better

Oops never did see the Oly file my bad
 

Brian Mosley

New member
More examples from the E-420 and DP1 from this evening... just before sunset.

E-420, 1/250s f/6.3 at 14.0mm (28mm EFL) iso100


DP1, 1/100s f/10.0 at 16.6mm (28mm EFL) iso100


DP1, 1/80s f/10.0 at 16.6mm (28mm EFL) iso100


Kind Regards

Brian
 

cam

Active member
gorgeous, Brian! whilst the E-420 looks more "natural," i do really like the slightly hyper-real look of the DP1. it captures the drama of the moment and the dimensional feel is awesome!
 

Brian Mosley

New member
Thanks cam, I find myself respecting the more natural look of the Oly... but with the DP1, the extra dynamic range allows more pushing for drama.

edit : thanks Will - as I said, the DP1 is great for this kind of dramatic look.

Kind Regards

Brian
 
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