Chuck Jones
Subscriber Member
Ron, just for grins set your shutter speed to 1/100th, and see what you get.
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Thanks. I followed your suggestion. Results are presented here:K-H, I know you have already put in a lot of time, and thank you for it, but if you could test with and without the battery and grip, everything else being identical, you could go a fair way towards identifying the problem source. I would gladly do it, except that my dealer hasn't received my grip yet.
Thanks, K-H. Just so that you know you are not alone in spending time and effort on tests, I did the portrait test as per your suggestion. Same system (Contax C/Y 180mm, Gitzo 0541). Early on, 1/2s exposure, no shake, either in landscape or in portrait. Later, 1/40s, no shake in portrait (didn't do landscape, as it seemed pointless). Later on, 1/100s, supposedly critical speed, still no shake in ladscape or in portrait. If I squint long and hard at the portrait, I can say that there is the faintest lack of sharpness (no shake visible), but that could well be self-suggestion. If you want, I can show the pics.
Well, it is not getting any easier... My guess is still that there are resonances lurking within the camera, excited by certain weight/stiffness/shutter speed combinations, otherwise it is just peace and (not) quiet...
By the time I'd rejected the camera Vivek, this issue hadn't come up. But it was absolutely obvious to me that the vibration caused by the loud shutter noise meant that you needed a much faster shutter speed than you would with a camera without a clanging shutter-like ALL the other cameras I ownSince this whole vibration business is not repeatable and not experienced by others, it is a conspiracy to drum up free advertisement for various blogs. To quote a well known person here, it is bullshit and nothing else.
.......I don't think it's in the spirit of the forum to call people liars when you disagree with them.Go make some pictures folks. Life is short to give in to this sort of false propaganda.
Or get another camera which doesn't exhibit the problem! (Or shoot pictures where to doesn't matter)If things shkae, sharpen your technique instead of blaming it on the camera.
could be termed as thisGo make some pictures folks. Life is short to give in to this sort of false propaganda.
is baffling........I don't think it's in the spirit of the forum to call people liars when you disagree with them.
Chuck, I did that as part of the above series, and the results were much better than at 1/50s (see below the result with the STA-1 collar).Ron, just for grins set your shutter speed to 1/100th, and see what you get.
Ron - great test. I think this shows how tripod-camera setups can influence results. I’ve shown in the iseismology tests that there is prolonged vibration prior to the onset of exposure in the A7R. It's not more intense than a DSLR just longer in duration. Although this prelude may not have much to do with vibration at the sensor at the moment of exposure, it may however set the stage for vibration through the tripod/adapter/foot connections. It can effect the expensive tripod setups and be ok with the inexpensive setups. This type of vibration is not part of equipment design.OK, here some quick test results, and then off to bed...
Lens: Leica APO-Elmarit-R 1:2.8/180
Aperture: f/2.8
Adapter: modified Voigtländer F Adapter (baffle removed, shimmed)
Sensor orientation: landscape
Shutter triggering method: 10s self-timer
Tripod: RRS TVC-33
Tripod head: Arca d4
Attachment device:
- Leica STA-1 tripod collar with RRS QR-Plate
- Novoflex ASTAT-NEX tripod collar
- flimsy and tiny no-name QR-plate directly on camera
Target: self-made, consisting of line grids (0.5 x 40mm lines) at varying orientations
Object distance: approx. 3.5m
Procedure: 3 exposures at 1/50s and ISO 100 with each attachment device, best result selected (sample variation was found to be absolutely minimal), 100% crop presented
Certainly could be but I do not think it is any one thing. As many are reporting, the problem comes and goes as mass moves about in relation to the shutter mount / camera block. That pretty much defines a resonant system. Given that I do not see obvious problems with the 55, it appears to me that the shutter mount is tuned pretty well for at least this native lens.Could it be the Novoflex adapter and not focal length dependent?
Steve, this was all hand-held, right?For reference only.
I took over 400 images yesterday with the A7r (gripped) and 55/1.8FE. Not a single sign of shutter shock with various speeds and apertures. Super sharp photos with an extremely high focus hit rate.
K-HThank you Philippe (I hope I got your name right! Otherwise I apologize) Sounds good!
I am convinced there will be fewer problems with just the APO-R 280/4 or the Vario-R 105-280/4.2.
Especially in landscape orientation.
A7R + VARIO-R 105-280/4.2
Cheers, Karl-Heinz.
All images were taken hand held, centre focus point and auto ISO. The resolution is breathtaking. The camera made a difficult shoot much easier.Steve, this was all hand-held, right?
Edit: some terrific images in the series you published on your site. Congrats!
For reference only.
I took over 400 images yesterday with the A7r (gripped) and 55/1.8FE. Not a single sign of shutter shock with various speeds and apertures. Super sharp photos with an extremely high focus hit rate.
Guy, the dinky little plate I've used with good results in my tests (see above) has deeply recessed rubber strips on the mounting surface which barely protrude. I doubt they make much difference in my case because when attached to the camera, it looks like the strips are completely compressed and the aluminum surface of the plate is making full contact with the camera body. I believe the big difference I've seen in my tests is due to mass coupling when attaching the tripod directly to the camera via a QR-plate.Does anyone have a camera plate with a rubber top. If someone does that is having the issues I would love to see them switch to different plate with rubber on it as I suspect it may dampen the first curtain when it hits. Or maybe add that Sugru to a plate and see if it does something. I just have this feeling a rubber plate may just help
As it happens, both quick-release plates that I used for testing are rubber-topped, and they were the only point of contact (no lens collar). And I haven't been able to generate a problem.Does anyone have a camera plate with a rubber top.