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Wired cable release for a7r?

Massimo

Member
@tn1krr
Are you positive that the TC-C1 will work with the Hypoxic cable?

I am asking because I bought the Hypoxic hoping to reuse my cherished Phottix Nikos equipped with a C6 cable, but it didn't work at all :-(

Furthermore, it looks like the Hypoxic (or a similar cable) should work coupled with the Hahnel Giga T Pro II (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r63DdtY1S_A) - a great if expensive combo. Is there anyone who can confirm this?

I contacted Hahnel by the way, and they are working on a Giga T Pro II version for the A7/A7r; should be available late June.
 

tn1krr

New member
@tn1krr
Are you positive that the TC-C1 will work with the Hypoxic cable?

I am asking because I bought the Hypoxic hoping to reuse my cherished Phottix Nikos equipped with a C6 cable, but it didn't work at all :-(
I'm sure they work, I'm using them. I ordered from the links I listed above.
 

tn1krr

New member
Bumping this thread as I got a new gadget last week as I was a bit unhappy with using a wired remote in a few situation; so I got myself a Canon version of Phottix Aion wireless release and I'm using that with Hypoxic cable on my A7R/A6000. IMO this combination is very good
- very easy to use half-press for "AF before a shot". The wired remote (JYC TC-1) I got before had a tiny bit too sensitive shutter button so instead of half press I occasionally got a full press; with Aion no such issues. Wireless remote with half-press and face-detect is quite nice for taking group pictures where even the shooter is present without having to prefocus and shoot stopped down a lot
- runs on AAA batteries so I can use my rechargeables (I hate having to stock 7 different CR XXXX batteries as spares) as I have a pile of AA and AAA
- the bracketed long exposure the remote has (not sure if this is available wired versions there are, stopped using them) pretty much solves the limitation of in-built HDR in Sony cameras. Up to seven exposures can be done from -3 to +3, one stop gap. Camera is put on bulb mode and remote takes care of everything; math needs to be done by the user as one needs to input the fastest shutter speed.
- the display even has signal strength indication (in addition to battery) so that I can check that I'm not near signal limit; I'd hate losing very long exposures due to loss of signal
- I think this combo handily beats the IR remote (pile of features+half press and no effect on camera battery) and Remote App (again, no battery life effect on either phone or camera, no need to handle quirks of app in camera, some features that app does not have...)

The Aion is not the cheapest product at around $80-90, but it is very very solid one and the convenience of wireless combined with the usability and feature set is great. If I was able to start from the scratch I'd make the DIY Sony multi-interface to 2.5 mm cable and get the Aion to use with it; that is about $100 total; now I have the quite limited Sony Wired remote, expensive converter and pile of other stuff...
 

Ben Rubinstein

Active member
I had a yongnuo wireless remote for my canons which was just a radio version of a regular wired remote, I miss it a lot. I see the Phottix Cleon does the same thing though for the life of me I can't work out where to by it (nothing on ebay is weird). What is that cable you used? This looks like what I've been waiting for.
 

Massimo

Member
Thank you, I'll be ordering one right away! :)
Finally received a JYC TC-C1 from China, and connected it to my A7 via my Hypoxic cable; well, it doesn't work!

I am starting to suspect my multi-terminal is defective ... besides setting "Remote Ctrl" to "On" in the Menu, is there anything else I should check in order to make a wired remote work?

My cheap JYC wireless remote does/does not work though, according to the value of the "Remote Ctrl" option!
 
So after reading this post, I can honestly say that I am quite confused :(

I am also looking to get a wired release for my SOny A7R so that I can do timelapses, timed exposures etc etc.. I currently have the Sony RM-VPR1, which was a nightmare to get in its own right..

So hopefully someone here can answer the questions I have..

mjm6 and 4season, you both mention the cable VMC-AVM1, did you have any luck with that? Is that all I need? What cable release/intervalometer am I then using with that?

Then further on down the post, I see that tn1krr is referring to the hypoxic cable

https://www.gethypoxic.com/products...ails&product_id=150&flypage=flypage.tpl&pop=0

that allows Canon timer/intervalometers to be used..

Am I right in assuming that both ways are valid? Or did I miss something and the
VMC-AVM1 did not end up working?

So confused am I :(

Ok, thanks so much, much appreciated!
 

4season

Well-known member
mjm6 and 4season, you both mention the cable VMC-AVM1, did you have any luck with that? Is that all I need? What cable release/intervalometer am I then using with that?
I decided to approach this in the modern manner! I had a "D'oh!" moment when I realized that Sony has a $10 time-lapse app which currently supports still images, raw output and manual exposure control. Got multiple compatible cameras? The terms of the license allows you 10x installs for your $10.

Since I had an existing Sony Playstation account, I just used account info to sign into the Playmemories site using the camera's own web browser (it still blows me away to see a web browser on my camera) and downloaded the app directly.

https://www.playmemoriescameraapps.com/portal/usbdetail.php?eid=IS9104-NPIA09014_00-000003

And so, I've got some good time-lapse functionality without needing to buy another small piece of black plastic which will inevitably get lost in my cable collection.
 

ThomasZ

Member
The camera creates it's own wifi network for this functionality. This must have a massive impact on battery life.
 

Annna T

Active member
The camera creates it's own wifi network for this functionality. This must have a massive impact on battery life.
???

Only the first time you download the app. Also, you can just hook the camera to your computer and then things proceed as if you were doing a firmware update (well, more or less).

After that the program is permanently stored on your body and you can set it to airplane mode on, so that will not suck the battery for the WIFI connection. In time lapse mode, you will be able to shoot more frames than in regular use (where you need to refocus etc..) I could get up to 800 frames on a single battery and there was still juice there after. Can't compare that battery performance to a wired timer however, since it don't have one.
 

ThomasZ

Member
Sorry, my fault. I confounded the time-lapse app with Sony's PlayMemories Mobile App for smartphones. Of course does the in-camera time-lapse app not need any wifi, as the smart remote thing.
 

mjm6

Member
mjm6 and 4season, you both mention the cable VMC-AVM1, did you have any luck with that? Is that all I need? What cable release/intervalometer am I then using with that?
I have the adapter cable AVM1 and a generic wired timer, but I have not had a chance to rewire the adapter to a mini-phone jack yet.

The website link for the instructions indicates it will work, however.
 

Smoothjazz

Active member
I have the RM-VPR1 remote, and can say that it works very well, used primarily for landscape shots when my camera is on a tripod.
 
Hi,
Thanks for that, not anything specific I guess, just whether it serves well as an intervalometer for timelapse?

I have the Sony Timelapse App but have been looking for another option since I first had the camera..

Thanks again!
 

jfzander

New member
Big problem with the time laps app is, that it doesn't support bracketing, which is a must during high dynamic range situations.
 

dwood

Well-known member
Just picked up an RM-VPR1. When I connect it to my a7r, I no longer have control of most buttons and dials of the camera. I can remotely trigger the shutter, but that's about it. Anyone run into this behavior?
 
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