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Best 200 mm lens

Viramati

Member
Lens looks great and i was wondering how the non HS version performs as I wouldn't be using it for action work but for landscape and cityscape work
 

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Seriously go buy a Minolta 200mm 2.8 HS. Trust me
Why am I not surprised? :ROTFL:

Once I got a 70-200/2.8L, the 200/2.8L never came out of the closet again. The zoom is just too useful! Sure, there's a (large) price and weight difference, but a lens you never use is not worth the price no matter how little you paid for it.

But keep posting examples, Guy. You can be very persuasive! ;)

--Matt
 

Michiel Schierbeek

Well-known member
For long distance shots the Leica APO Telyt 180/3.4 is supurb otherwise I grab the Canon FD 200/2.8. Not to expensive, fast and really good.
 
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jaree

Member
I will throw my hat in the ring:

Mamiya 200MM/F2.8 MF 645 mount. Superb wide open. As a bonus, I can use it on my A7 as well as Leica S2!

I got a shiny mint sample from eBay for $600.
 

jaree

Member
Jaree is it very big on the A7's?
I took some pictures for you so you can compare. Mamiya 200 APO, Contax CY 35-135 and Leica R 100 APO. Mamiya is quite big and heavy and in my opinion, a tripod only lens. Not something you will use everyday, but it does render things in its own special way.

View attachment 85145

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and for fun, I thought I will add an apple for comparison:

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hodad66

Member
It's funny, I have been looking at that Minolta HS 200 for weeks now!! I already have
a nice Nikon ED 180mm f2.8 but it doesn't have AF......
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
I personally would never use that 2nd hood on the 200mm Minolta but for comparison its about 60 percent as big as the 70-200mm ZA 2.8. Im using the zoom this week and its a truck compared to the 200mm. For me the 200mm you can actually travel with. Its not very heavy at all.

They are found mostly on eBay and usually from Asian countries. Paint wear off is very normal for this lens. Go by the condition of the optics because the paint just does not hold up well. Not sure what they used back in 1986 with this lens but the optics are what counts and it does deliver.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Getting ready for a bunch of work with the Minolta 200mm 2.8 lens this Sunday through Wednesday both on a golf course and corporate event. So I thought I would just double check things out in my backyard handheld and with the A7II its pretty amazing with IBIS how low you can go but not realizing I had my APC crop on when I shot these . So effective 300mm here

Here is the wide open full frame

 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Pretty amazing how a old lens like this is that good wide open with a crop and handheld on it no less.
 

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
I've been playing with the Minolta 100 f/2. This is not quite 100%, and before someone chimes in about it being an overpriced piece of junk ;), this looks much sharper before re-posting here (the Retina BBP problem)



BUT ... How do you get portraits in focus with these A-mount adapted lenses? Landscapes, no problem, but aim at a person and I get their nose, their ears, their glasses, the tree behind them.... the A7II seems to avoid eyes with non-native lenses. I do better with a sharp manual lens like the 75 Cron. It must work for you, Guy. Is it easier with the more modern A-mount lenses? Does the 200 2.8 have a decent focus ring? The 100 f2 is like the 70-210 f/4, with a thin short throw ring way at the front.

--Matt
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
It maybe the 50mm 1.4 has SSM the 85 and 135 still have the screw drive. Im not sure about the 100mm though. It maybe a screw drive. Matt your going to have to do some AF focus adjust which is in the menu's. Every A lens has some adjustment I have found. Not a lot but even 5 points either way can be huge.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
When we get to the workshop. I'll help you setup your menus for you . Its daunting to figure out all these electronic wizards can do but once you get it setup good it becomes a lot easier.
 

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Thanks Guy. I did dial in the offset on the 100. It's the inconsistency that is frustrating. That and the poor MF ring.

I think I'm just out of practice with "simple" AF. These face and eye detecting systems make it too easy.

Edit: I redid the offset by tethering the camera to C1 and alternating AF and zoom. With the new improved offset, I'm having no trouble with faces. Much better!

--Matt
 
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