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A7R with TSE 17 and 24 color shift question

Chris C

Member
I hesitated about posting this link as it's not too relevant to the originally posed question. However, those people following this interesting thread and not sure about choosing a 17mm or 24mm lens might be interested in this Mason Marsh video for his take on the two lenses for landscape use. [It's a good picture too; though it would be more powerful in B&W].

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxEdgl550cc

…………………. Chris
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Have not watched the video but in my case having both the 17 and 24 would be ideal. I will eventually get the 24mm no doubt about it. But stitching the 17mm not sure how much of an advantage it is over a single shot . You still get basically the same width but do gain height. Sometimes that maybe needed. The 24mm to me is the stitching lens and the 17 is more for interiors, exteriors and the creative stuff in landscapes where rise and fall are more important along with tilt. Thats mostly how I will use the 17mm. There really different lenses and the 24mm will be a much better stitching back as there is no distortion that i know of.
 

jlm

Workshop Member
the video was limited ( i watched most of it; nothing on tilts); his process was to stitch with shifts 3 panels, using a 24mm in portrait mode, giving him a similar FOV to a single frame 17 in landscape mode. trying to avoid the corner distortion of a 17mm lens.

if i were doing that, i would have panned the 24, and avoid any shifting to the far regions of the image circle at all. parallax not an issue for the sort of landscape he shows
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Agree John. Panos in the field especially landscapes you can get by a lot without stitching and its far easier( MF with LCC's is even tougher). Interior type stuff you do not want to do Panos but Stitching. Far different sometimes. Good rule of thumb when you have straight lines in your subject your best to stitch. But as you say when you start getting out to the edge of the image circles thats when potential issues come to play. I hardly ever stitch doing landscapes anymore. You do need a nodal point though when panning.

All my parts just arrived, so going to put it all together and see how everything fits as a unit.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Well ran into one issue. I bought the Hitech adapter ring for my 105 CPL filter and just won't work on the Lee Foundation holder and I'm out of time . Driving to San Diego this morning for vacation . Took a small kit with me if you call it small. Lol
A7r, 17mm and the Canon 1.4 extender and I took my Sigma 18-35 to shoot in crop mode for fun stuff. But I am planning hopefully to shoot a lot with the 17 and converted 24mm also. See how this extender works. I'll post images in about 10 days as I'm leaving the laptop home in the safe. This is vacation right. Lol

Anyway when I get back I need to order the Metabones IV since this one I am renting from lensrentals for 2 weeks. Anyone not wanting there's I am looking to buy one. Hopefully I can get a couple winning shots. BTW the Haida ND filters are very nice with no color shift I seen yet and for a 4x4 glass filter it was only 95 dollars which is pretty good. I'll buy the 3.0 later have the 1.8 now. Be well all and just a personal note it's been 9 months now my wife has been all clear from all three of her cancers so the Mancusos are celebrating this milestone. Thanks for your prayers
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
To update here a little turns out with the 17 it's really hard to do a ND and a CPL at the same time. So in my infinite wisdom. I changed my plan slightly. I actually bought a second Lee foundation holder. On one holder I will have the lee 17mm adapter on it with the foundation holder attached and the ND 1.8 on it than if I want the CPL I can just switch the holder with the CPL on it. So two pouches to carry and switching between the 2 is real easy with the connection. Why you ask I don't have to screw in a filter on in the field nor when the lens is off the camera . It's easier to just switch the holder out. Plus I want the CPL as close the front element to avoid additional vignetting than if it was the second filter in the holder. I figure worst case if I wanted to use them together which is rare I would put the CPL on than add the ND to the outside.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
I will add a ND 3 to the kit. I don't use grads very often if ever. With the amazing DR these days on cams you can usually pull out the balance of a image out very well in post.
 

jlm

Workshop Member
doesn't the wonderpana have a filter holder bracket as an optional accessory in addition to the screw threads to mount the CPL and in front of the CPL? or don't they work together?
 

Bob Parsons

New member
......................Plus I want the CPL as close the front element to avoid additional vignetting than if it was the second filter in the holder. I figure worst case if I wanted to use them together which is rare I would put the CPL on than add the ND to the outside.
Guy, if you place the CPL between the ND or ND Grad filter and the lens you have to make sure the ND filter doesn't suffer from birefringence. If it does you can get light and dark areas or colored striations in your image. Glass NDs are usually OK, it's the optical resin ones you have to watch. So far I've found Lee filters don't suffer from this whereas the Fotodiox resin Grads do.

An easy way to check a filter for birefringence is to view a white LCD computer/TV screen through the following arrangement: LCD screen < Test filter < CPL < Eye. If you rotate the test filter and/or CPL the image through the test filter should lighten and darken uniformly without any colored or light dark bands. The front of the CPL should face the LCD screen.

Bob.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Yes John that would work fine . It has those big filters so you can do it. With the 100mm filters it's a challenge not to vignette more. I still have not ruled out the Wonderadapter . The size is what's getting me. But on your system you can do bth with no problems
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Guy, if you place the CPL between the ND or ND Grad filter and the lens you have to make sure the ND filter doesn't suffer from birefringence. If it does you can get light and dark areas or colored striations in your image. Glass NDs are usually OK, it's the optical resin ones you have to watch. So far I've found Lee filters don't suffer from this whereas the Fotodiox resin Grads do.

An easy way to check a filter for birefringence is to view a white LCD computer/TV screen through the following arrangement: LCD screen < Test filter < CPL < Eye. If you rotate the test filter and/or CPL the image through the test filter should lighten and darken uniformly without any colored or light dark bands. The front of the CPL should face the LCD screen.

Bob.
Thanks Bob I'll check this out
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Bob I did go with glass ND. Sounds like they are better for color shift issues. My Haida looks very good so far
 

viablex1

Active member
so this 17mm and 24 from canon don't do what the 24mm nikon does on the d800e? the corners are really blank so I almost always shoot in 4X5 crop mode
 
D

Deleted member 7792

Guest
so this 17mm and 24 from canon don't do what the 24mm nikon does on the d800e? the corners are really blank so I almost always shoot in 4X5 crop mode
The Canon 17mm and 24mm TS-E lenses are exceptional. I've owned both the 24mm Canon and 24mm Nikon (and D800e), and the Canon definitely outshines the Nikon. I'm using the Canon 24mm TS-E now with the Sony a7R.

Joe
 

jlm

Workshop Member
corners look good to me with both lenses; no vignetting even with max shift and no lens correction applied when processing, not even an LCC (I use Capture One). these have been quick studies, not even shot on a tripod, but so far so good.
 
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