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Guy, the AF locks on perfectly with my two native lenses (I have no complaints). So need for any AF fine adjustment that I can see of.
Guy, I just did exactly as you said (manually focusing) and yes if I'm being honest I can see a difference between the two extreme focal lengths of 16mm and 35mm at f4 when focusing as close as possible (As close as the lens will allow me to that is) using a steel ruler at an angle, that ties up with Sergio's results...But by the time I'm at circa 0.7m the point becomes pretty well mute as far as I see it...Personally I didn't buy the lens for macro work and I would always refocus at whatever focal length I was shooting at anyway....Just my 2 pence worth. This may be a problem for some folks here but not for me.
Agree we would always adjust focus after a focal change on zooms. Usually this is a small amount. What I was trying figure was if it was a severe amount. This would say something about the elements movements. My guess this has a floating element for close focusing as well. My Nikon 14-24 had a pretty bad focus shift. So on one hand some of this could very well be somewhat normal. But I'm reading it sounds fairly severe. But most of us would use it manual anyway and BTW I do not like the fly by wire setting. I don't like the mechanics of it so I switched it off
Guy, I'm looking forward to seeing what you think when you get your rental...I would be even more interested if you rented a WATE at the same time
If one puts Live View Display to "setting effect off" all native E Mount lenses focus wide open and only stop down for exposure when shutter button is pressed. So we get to pick which behavior we prefer.
Most of the time I DMF when I need to manually focus my FE lenses. Fly by wire is just weird.
The problems you had with the Nikon (or anything with the A99/A77) is not applicable in this case as the focus is off the sensor. Totally different scenarios.
I thought that when using focus by wire to focus manually, then the speed at which you are turning the wheel may make a difference and that it doesn't help to add marks on the ring/barrel because they would change depending on that speed : aka if you turn slowly, you will have to go further and if you turn fast, then a smaller turn will yield a bigger change. I seem to remember having read something like that in the manual.. but I didn't insist, I prefer AF given the state of my eyesight..I can honestly say that I haven't experienced any real noticeable field curvature or any focus shift for that matter with this particular lens - Although if Dxomark and Lloyd Chambers says their is, then I bow to their better judgement.
My gripe is I am not entirely happy with the (A7R) cameras distance focusing scale to rely on, as it's a bit crude as it steps up and down in bite sized chunks, I would prefer something a bit more linear + I'm not entirely convinced it's even that accurate either
Hi Annna, I’m not sure I entirely follow you, what I was trying to say in a roundabout way - Was that when you are in manual focus mode and you rotate the lens focusing ring, the lens distance scale obviously now becomes active on the rear screen and in the EVF.
Guy, enjoy your NY trip with the 16-35mm, if you get time I would just do a few test shots at home just to familiarize yourself with the focusing (That could prove to be beneficial later on when in NY).
It seems to be pretty much same case with every 16-35. We tested the A Mount 16-35/2.8 ZA against the FE 16-35/4 and the A mount model was noticeably softer on F/4 aperture. Canikons do not really shine in 35 mm either.
The good part is that there are plenty of great 35mm lenses out there. There aren't quite so many great UWA options so I kind of like hearing this. I may pickup this lens before my Vegas trip in February. I'm starting to see a few good examples of what it can do in broad daylight or sunset that aren't just brick walls.
Guy, my copy, which has got such a bad reputation against the Wate at 16,
( just a little less than at 24/28,
_DSC4042 by sergio lovisolo, on Flickr
