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Well it is quite easy to see if it is working with the longer lenses as with a half press of the shutter release you can see the image get steadier and stop jiggling about. at the moment I can have the IBIS on and off and nothing changesDavid, how do you determine the IBIS is not working, while you still hear the click and the whirring noise? Not that I don't believe you, but then I can test when I get an a7II (won't be too long I think, gear lust is currently in high gear )
Lens refocussing on it's own is feature called "pre-AF". You can disable it on the menu. You cannot manually override AF in AF-S mode with native E Mount lens unless the focus mode is set to DMF; DMF behaves like AF-S, but after lock it will instantly show peaking and you have option to instantly override focus. Peaking can also appear to be on/off due to changes in contrast of the scene.Confused Rant:
Frequently the lens refocusses when no buttons are pushed but the camera is just re-aimed. :wtf: Why would it EVER do that? Sometimes manual override works, other times it is ignored. Sometimes focus peaking is on, sometimes off. It's especially weird when focus peaking is on but MF is ignored. You can't move the helpful shimmer... so it's Not. Very. Helpful. :loco: Of course, these things should be settable, but I have no idea which settings changed their behavior!
Focus by wire takes getting used to as it is non-linear, the faster you turn same "angle" of MF ring the more the focus changes. It will never match MF fell of a modern Zeiss, but best thing about it is that you can get really slow moving focus when being careful regardless of focus distance; I had a Zeiss Makro Planar 50/2 that was a pain to manually focus on longer distances due to tiny touch in focus changes focus a lot and I actually prefer the FE 55/1.8 over the Makro Planar for portrait and longer distances.The focus by wire sensitivities are insanely jumpy - turn a bit too fast, and you have to go slowly back for what feels like a full revolution of the focus ring.
The optical system is great, and that's the whole point. The other stuff will work itself out ... if I don't throw the camera out a window first.
Well-configured Fn menu (for one's presonal shooting style) is make or break for these cameras. I practically never ever enter the obfuscated Menu unless I'm formatting a card or turning Live View Setting effect on/off.I turn focus wire off , it's just to jumpy for me. I use the camera mostly in manual mode with the rear button for Afs. Nice thing is you still get focus peaking and I set my magnifier to the C1 button. No question these cams menu systems are confusing as hell. I also live and die with the Fn button as I load all 12 buttons up with a certain function so it's very easy to hit the Fn find what your after and dive in fast.
Is that a camera function or only on certain lenses? I can't find it in the labyrinth of menus or by searching the Help website.I turn focus wire off , it's just to jumpy for me.
Was the problem just one adapter or a number of different ones?Ok so my dealer has given me a new body so will see how it works out
Voigtlander close focus adaptor and a chinese adaptorWas the problem just one adapter or a number of different ones?
The reason I ask is that I have a couple of lenses that were adapted to EOS when I was using the 1ds cameras that refused to work with a metabones EF-Sony adapter. I realized that the lens mount used for the mod was very wide and was shorting contacts on the adapter (no damage luckily).
If this problem crops up again on the new body try taping some thin tape to the spot on the adapter that would end up over the camera body contacts.