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HCam Master TS 11-24mm

mandonbossi

New member
" the latest versions of our adapters got further improved, the surface of the visible parts is now fluted / ribbed and additionally we use an even more matte paint.

I think we are already pretty good now. "


So the Hcam adapter has been changed/improved again?

This makes me hesitant about purchasing one as I feel like as soon as I do, it will be somehow changed in the following months...

I feel that an adapter that costs as much as the Hcam should not be having any issues with internal flare.. This is not a $40 Chinese adapter off Ebay..
 

Stefan Steib

Active member
" the latest versions of our adapters got further improved, the surface of the visible parts is now fluted / ribbed and additionally we use an even more matte paint.

I think we are already pretty good now. "


So the Hcam adapter has been changed/improved again?

This makes me hesitant about purchasing one as I feel like as soon as I do, it will be somehow changed in the following months...

I feel that an adapter that costs as much as the Hcam should not be having any issues with internal flare.. This is not a $40 Chinese adapter off Ebay..
so you only buy products which are never again changed and improved from day one of sales ?

Like..... what ? Metabones is on Version 4 now ? Cameras which never get upgrades like ....name any one ?
Permanent improvement is a philosophy. What you want is stagnation.

Regards
Stefan
 

daf

Member
" the latest versions of our adapters got further improved, the surface of the visible parts is now fluted / ribbed and additionally we use an even more matte paint.

I think we are already pretty good now. "


So the Hcam adapter has been changed/improved again?

This makes me hesitant about purchasing one as I feel like as soon as I do, it will be somehow changed in the following months...

I feel that an adapter that costs as much as the Hcam should not be having any issues with internal flare.. This is not a $40 Chinese adapter off Ebay..

All metal parts, very precisely adjusted(mine can be shoot wide open with perfect corners), smooth and practical defenitly has nothing to do with a 40$adapter
Yes you have to use a lenshood/flag/compendium but Large image circle Lens+shift is always a concern with flare (not only with this adapter) I had similar problem with my digitar+cf and cambo setup...same goes with rodies...maybe you have too much expectation.
I've bought the very very first version, the second V1 and I'm working a lot for paid jod with it and I'm still very happy. I might buy the v2 at some point.



.
 

ICHBINSpunktDE

New member
So the Hcam adapter has been changed/improved again?

This makes me hesitant about purchasing one as I feel like as soon as I do, it will be somehow changed in the following months...
The good news is: the adapter you (would have) bought doesn't get any worse just because there's an improved version now. Just like an A7R didn't drop to 20 MP the moment Sony released the A7RII.

I feel that an adapter that costs as much as the Hcam should not be having any issues with internal flare..
Agreed, but I have even better news: if you had the HCam, you could wait for an afternoon with really cr*ppy weather and (carefully, not obstructing the mechanism) tape some velours into the adapter as lots of people done before you on lots of adapters.

This is not a $40 Chinese adapter off Ebay..
... but not a $1.975 Cambo Actus (lens plate not included, add about $300+ for that) either.
 

Stefan Steib

Active member
@anGy

The HCam Master TS is and has always been compatible with all FE Bodies. We will do Canon M, MFT and Fuji X as an option next year.
The mount of the V2 is interchangeable already , so the user will be able to exchange himself.
As soon as Sony comes out with something new, like the thicker handgrip we adapt and improve
Like this:

For all the A7RII ,A7SII and A7II users, who have our
Hcam Master TS V2, we have made a modified shorter Tilt Lock screw, that replaces the original Version.
Reason: on some rotational angles the long one may touch the bigger handgrip of these cameras.
The new adapters are shipped with the long version in place and the short one as a spare.
I have some short screws for recent customers, so if you need that, please contact me, so I can mail you one.

Concerning a version for Canon EF - 5Dsr: we also offer the Mirex versions for EOS to P645, M645 and Hasselblad V - even these can be combined with the HCam Master TS
and will then allow shift and rise at the same time - like a view camera !
 

Attachments

mandonbossi

New member
So am not sure I entirely agree with your opinions on this but hey, this is what a forum is for...

" The good news is: the adapter you (would have) bought doesn't get any worse just because there's an improved version now. Just like an A7R didn't drop to 20 MP the moment Sony released the A7RII."


That might be true but the original Sony A7R had some serious design flaws that should have been recognised before it was sold to the public.. These have since been rectified in the Sony A7RII.

" Agreed, but I have even better news: if you had the HCam, you could wait for an afternoon with really cr*ppy weather and (carefully, not obstructing the mechanism) tape some velours into the adapter as lots of people done before you on lots of adapters."

Once again, if this is going to help with the issue of internal flare, isn't this an issue that should be addressed in the production of the adapter (not a DIY job by the paying customer). Also, looking at the adapter, I would assume it would be much easier to attach this flocking material before it has been put together..

" ... but not a $1.975 Cambo Actus (lens plate not included, add about $300+ for that) either. "

I agree, this is cheaper than a Cambo Actus.. If either Cambo or Arca Swiss ever come out with a working Canon Electronic adapter, these will be an appealing option. Until then, am not sure I am sold on them either as they seem to struggle with wides...

Stefan, Is having a flocked Hcam Master something you are looking at for future versions?
 

Stefan Steib

Active member
> Stefan, Is having a flocked Hcam Master something you are looking at for future versions? <

Even the very first adapter did not have much issues with flare. The reason why we improve what we can, is to prevent issues under any possible circumstances.
The momentary solution is already very good, and flocking is prone to leave black particles falling off the adapter into the camera, which is an absolute nogo !

We will definitely look for further improvements as soon as we have new ideas, that is an ongoing process. There is no such product as a finished one !
Especially those things that look consistent and simple, are very often changed more, with subtle variations, that customers don´t even mention.
We are "Manu"facturers in the best sense of the word, not mass producers.

Regards
Stefan

info: there are new pricelists available on the facebook site, some leveling the Nikon version withV2 adapter, the price of the Canon 11-24mm complete kit even went down a bit !
 

mandonbossi

New member
With regards to having flocking material in a lens or adapter to reduce internal flare, doesn't the Canon 24mm TS-E II lens have this material in the rear section of it?

No issues with that falling off onto the sensor right?
 

Stefan Steib

Active member
With regards to having flocking material in a lens or adapter to reduce internal flare, doesn't the Canon 24mm TS-E II lens have this material in the rear section of it?

No issues with that falling off onto the sensor right?
This is flocked self-adhesive foil , I also use that for finishing the Canon EF-L 11-24mm (DCFix). But this is because the flocking material is embedded in the plastik carrier , so it is very stable.
Paint may work, but as always as paintjobs are concerned - the surface needs to be absolutely clean, the paint needs to be the right one for the material and it is probably prone to differing thickness of the applied color. Lots of variables which can cause trouble. The (our)adapters are also using a special lube, that may interfere with that flocking paint.
Too unsecure.

Regards
Stefan
 
So have been playing around with the Hcam Master and it has taken me a little while to get used to it but I think I am finally getting it... Am not particularly technical so probably took a bit longer than required :)

Daf,

I did have one question and that was mainly directed to something you posted in a previous post...

You state;

"but you can also make a 2 row(2x2images) free paralax stich by using the 22/45/67 degree position, and just translate from leftdown to highright, then rotate the adpater and shoot again leftup and translate to rightdown, very quickly for a larger image..."

Can you please further explain this please?

I have had success doing a straightforward 2x stitch in portrait orientation (giving the rough equivalent of a landscape 33mm x 44mm area) but am really looking to do a bigger one if possible..

When referencing stitching with the Pentax 67 55mm, you state that with a "ratio 4/3 end up to around 45x57mm".

This is what I am after, a bigger stitched area :)

So have tried a few variations of your description but nothing seems to give a clean stitch unfortunately...

Are you placing the camera in portrait or landscape orientation?


Stefan, if you could also please chime in to how this stitch is being done it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
 

daf

Member
Daf,

I did have one question and that was mainly directed to something you posted in a previous post...

You state;

"but you can also make a 2 row(2x2images) free paralax stich by using the 22/45/67 degree position, and just translate from leftdown to highright, then rotate the adpater and shoot again leftup and translate to rightdown, very quickly for a larger image..."

Can you please further explain this please?
Hi Wallpaperviking,
First, i'm not a stitcher expert as i never do stitching (24/36mpx is far enough for me, i don't need more)... but here i'll try to explain you how to do a cross 4images stitch with this adpater:
- put your hcam on tripod
- put the shift mechanism at 45° (first click)
- put your camera body in landascape orientation
- Shoot the first picture at 15mm LEFT UP (1)
- Slide the body to the oppisite shift 15mm RIGHT DOWN (2)
- turn the shift mechanism to the opposite
-reajust the camera body position to lanscape
- Shoot the picture at 15mm RIGHT UP (1)
- Slide the body to the oppisite shift 15mm LEFT DOWN (2)

It looks complicated, but in fact when you have the adapter in hands it only take few seconds...

Then you can adjust the shift axes at 22°/45°/67° to get different image ratio..

Hope it is clear ;)

The attached picture is not a real stitched picture, but it is just to show you..
stitching.jpg
 
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Daf, Thanks so much for the response, much appreciated!

I have tried what you have suggested and have had varied results unfortunately.. Still think I must be doing something not quite right..

When you mention "put the shift mechanism at 45° (first click)", do you actually mean that it is the second click?

I assume that 22 is first, 45 is second, 67 is third and 90 is fourth.... Is this correct?

It is strange, some results I am getting exactly what you describe, whilst my other results give a more panoramic stitch and I feel like is is including less of the top two images...

Will have another look tomorrow and try and figure it out...

Thanks so much once again!
 

Stefan Steib

Active member
When I spoke to Stefan about the click stops he told me they are at every 11.25degs so 45degs would be 4 clicks yes!?
there are 5 clicks on 90 º means 4 segments, so one click is 22,5 º.

This applies to both the collar and the back clicks on the bajonett mount.

Maybe that was a misunderstanding.

Regards
Stefan
 
Daf,

So I have just tested your technique again and have found (assuming that I am following your instructions properly) that I am only having success at the 45 degree angle (second click stop).

Both the 22.5 degree and 67.5 do not work properly.. :(

Still, just having the 45 degree is good enough if it gives me a large stitch..

Stefan, could this be due to the design change of the current Hcam, as compared to the version Daf has? Are there any other Hcam users that can verify these results? Or maybe I am doing something wrong?


The other thing I noticed with all of these images is that they exhibit some flare, which I assume is internal flare from the adapter.. The sun was directly behind me (and even behind my apartment building) so I assume this is from the adapter.. It is not massive flare but I can still see it and it is annoying..

What do you guys think?
 

Attachments

Just to clarify what the images are, as they seemed to have got a bit muddled...


1. Whole image circle stitch

2. 4 x stitch at 22.5 degree stop

3. 4 x stitch at 45 degree stop (shows flare best)

4. 4 x stitch at 67.5 degree stop

5. 4 x stitch at 45 degree stop


Look forward to hearing what you guys think?

:)
 
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