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The Definitive Sony B&W Images Thread
- Thread starter etrigan63
- Start date
seb
Member
Thank you, Seb and Bart.
With, of course, Nik Silver Efex.
Some adjustments then add red filter, then slide red and yellow channels way to the left.
Tone and vignette etc.
Should have cropped a bit from rhs and straightened a bit.
Shot at noon with bright blue sky.
Cheers,
gandolfi.
With, of course, Nik Silver Efex.
Some adjustments then add red filter, then slide red and yellow channels way to the left.
Tone and vignette etc.
Should have cropped a bit from rhs and straightened a bit.
Shot at noon with bright blue sky.
Cheers,
gandolfi.
mediumcool
Active member
What happened to the back half of the vehicle? Must have been a terrible accident!blooker corner ...
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Vivek
Guest
That is an electric car for the disabled. Tiny by design.
mediumcool
Active member
Hate having my jokes disarmed!
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Vivek
Guest
We live in different realities.
Knorp
Well-known member
I'd say a car 'disabled by design' ...
scho
Well-known member
Most of the year, Enfield gorge offers solitude and only the calming sound of running water breaks the silence. However, in July and August the stream is dammed at the bottom of the gorge to create a swimming pool below the lower waterfall. Boisterous tourists and summer campers flock to this cool oasis and the place is transformed overnight.
Sony A6000M + 4/18-105
Sony A6000M + 4/18-105
Audii-Dudii
Active member
I haven't done much photography (or anything else, for that matter) over the past few weeks because of the heat wave we were experiencing here in Arizona. Unfortunately, the high ambient temps -- even late at night -- cause my A7R to generate so much thermal noise that the files it captures are basically useless to me. And although the heat finally broke somewhat last week, the monsoon season has also started and we have had rain almost every night for the past week, which has further served to keep me indoors.
I woke up early this morning, however, and noticed the outside temp was in the low 80s and the pavement was dry, so I headed out with my dog in tow at 4:00 am to take some photos to test the latest modification I've made to my current "FrankenKamera" project. Although this was intended only as a test photo, I like it well enough that I decided to post it here:
Cambo WDS / A7R / Sigma 35/f1.4 and .34 degrees of downward tilt at the lens
I woke up early this morning, however, and noticed the outside temp was in the low 80s and the pavement was dry, so I headed out with my dog in tow at 4:00 am to take some photos to test the latest modification I've made to my current "FrankenKamera" project. Although this was intended only as a test photo, I like it well enough that I decided to post it here:
Cambo WDS / A7R / Sigma 35/f1.4 and .34 degrees of downward tilt at the lens
Another from Toytown.blooker corner ...
Audii-Dudii
Active member
Here's another early morning test photo, this one taken of my next door neighbors' houses with my camera setup in my driveway:
I was testing my latest modification to my present camera project (the curious among you can see it here: http://www.canyonero.com/files/1499805687.jpg) wherein I am adding a fixed amount of front tilt to allow me to achieve slightly more DoF without stopping-down the aperture, so as keep my exposure lengths as short as possible while using the A7R's base ISO setting to achieve maximum image quality. (Yes, I know that astrophotographers, who also take long-exposure photos at night, prefer to use much higher ISO settings than that when using their A7R bodies, but my testing has shown that, for my purposes, ISO 100 is clearly the way to go.)
The result of this is that I was able to keep the gravel at the very bottom of the frame sharply focused simultaneously with the roof tiles at the very top of the frame. This isn't possible using just DoF alone, by stopping down as far as I can while still maintaining an exposure length of 30 seconds or less (which is the upper limit for the A7R, beyond which its firmware automatically drops one bit's worth of exposure range from its files, and thereby significantly reduces my ability to recover detail from the shadow areas during post-processing.) Unfortunately, the A7R is a less than ideal camera for the type of photography I do. However, it's also the best camera available to me and surprisingly, I find it to be a better performer overall -- for my purposes, as YMMV! -- than the A7RII that replaced it. I would love to get my hands on a QHY367 astrophotography camera to compare to my A7R -- they share the same sensor, but have different firmware, so no issues with changing the file's bit depth for exposures longer than 30 seconds, plus, it actively cools the sensor to reduce thermal noise, a feature that will come in very handy here in the Arizona desert, especially during our five months of summer, where the ambient temp when I'm photographing late at night is often higher than 100 degrees -- but I haven't been able to find anywhere I can rent one to test and at $4,395 MSRP, I can't afford to gamble and buy one just to satisfy my curiosity. <sigh>
Although I also own a Cambo Actus, which incorporates a front-tilt feature directly from the factory, I've found that keeping the plane of focus otherwise perfectly aligned with the sensor is difficult in the field, especially since I carry the camera around mounted on my tripod, which in turn is slung over my shoulder and bounces around a lot. I already had the Cambo WDS body on hand, leftover from my film days, so I thought I'd modify it a bit and see how well it fares for my purposes.
While the modified Cambo WDS does indeed work well, it turns out the amount of front tilt I can apply as a default (i.e., for every photo I take with it) isn't very large. So I've been experimenting with using different amounts of tilt to photograph a variety of typical scenes and it appears that using .024" shims (which in turn provide a fixed .34 degrees of tilt) is roughly the upper limit. Any more than that and I risk the roofs of houses or tops of trees going soft in some situations; any less than that and there is no benefit. And even with .34 degrees of tilt, the benefits are still fairly small -- it appears I gain only 1/3 to 1/2 of a stop's worth of additional DoF -- but helpful nonetheless.
We shall see...
I was testing my latest modification to my present camera project (the curious among you can see it here: http://www.canyonero.com/files/1499805687.jpg) wherein I am adding a fixed amount of front tilt to allow me to achieve slightly more DoF without stopping-down the aperture, so as keep my exposure lengths as short as possible while using the A7R's base ISO setting to achieve maximum image quality. (Yes, I know that astrophotographers, who also take long-exposure photos at night, prefer to use much higher ISO settings than that when using their A7R bodies, but my testing has shown that, for my purposes, ISO 100 is clearly the way to go.)
The result of this is that I was able to keep the gravel at the very bottom of the frame sharply focused simultaneously with the roof tiles at the very top of the frame. This isn't possible using just DoF alone, by stopping down as far as I can while still maintaining an exposure length of 30 seconds or less (which is the upper limit for the A7R, beyond which its firmware automatically drops one bit's worth of exposure range from its files, and thereby significantly reduces my ability to recover detail from the shadow areas during post-processing.) Unfortunately, the A7R is a less than ideal camera for the type of photography I do. However, it's also the best camera available to me and surprisingly, I find it to be a better performer overall -- for my purposes, as YMMV! -- than the A7RII that replaced it. I would love to get my hands on a QHY367 astrophotography camera to compare to my A7R -- they share the same sensor, but have different firmware, so no issues with changing the file's bit depth for exposures longer than 30 seconds, plus, it actively cools the sensor to reduce thermal noise, a feature that will come in very handy here in the Arizona desert, especially during our five months of summer, where the ambient temp when I'm photographing late at night is often higher than 100 degrees -- but I haven't been able to find anywhere I can rent one to test and at $4,395 MSRP, I can't afford to gamble and buy one just to satisfy my curiosity. <sigh>
Although I also own a Cambo Actus, which incorporates a front-tilt feature directly from the factory, I've found that keeping the plane of focus otherwise perfectly aligned with the sensor is difficult in the field, especially since I carry the camera around mounted on my tripod, which in turn is slung over my shoulder and bounces around a lot. I already had the Cambo WDS body on hand, leftover from my film days, so I thought I'd modify it a bit and see how well it fares for my purposes.
While the modified Cambo WDS does indeed work well, it turns out the amount of front tilt I can apply as a default (i.e., for every photo I take with it) isn't very large. So I've been experimenting with using different amounts of tilt to photograph a variety of typical scenes and it appears that using .024" shims (which in turn provide a fixed .34 degrees of tilt) is roughly the upper limit. Any more than that and I risk the roofs of houses or tops of trees going soft in some situations; any less than that and there is no benefit. And even with .34 degrees of tilt, the benefits are still fairly small -- it appears I gain only 1/3 to 1/2 of a stop's worth of additional DoF -- but helpful nonetheless.
We shall see...
mediumcool
Active member
Construction
Sony a7 w/50mm f/1.7 Planar 1/800 f/5.6 ISO 125
Sony a7 w/50mm f/1.7 Planar 1/800 f/5.6 ISO 125