The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

Rx1r2

Brian Mosley

New member
I've drifted away from printing over the last few years... I have an HP B9180+ with a bulk ink system - for those up to speed, what's the latest best option for printing up to A3+?

Thanks

Brian
 

Brian Mosley

New member
Well, in the meantime I think I'll look out for a specialist printer local to me, with whom I can work.

That seems to be the most economical way forward.

Cheers

Brian
 

Pradeep

Member
I've drifted away from printing over the last few years... I have an HP B9180+ with a bulk ink system - for those up to speed, what's the latest best option for printing up to A3+?

Thanks

Brian
Brian, funny you should mention the HP. I had that printer many years ago after I was frustrated by the Canon offerings and it did a great job, especially B&W prints. The unit was plagued by hardware problems though and I had it replaced five times in the four year period of my extended warranty.

The Epson printers are outstanding, especially the new Sure Color range. The P800 does 17", larger than the HP you have and of course costs more, but the results are truly jaw-dropping. It prints blacks that are so much more saturated than the HP could.

There is no doubt that a Master Printer will get you great prints, but be aware that in all probability he would have the same tools to work with, the days when Pros had the best equipment and therefore got better results are long over. If you have the ability or are willing to learn, you can get very close to what you would get from a big printing house. Plus the sheer joy of watching that beautiful image being created right before your very eyes. That's what the old 'Darkroom' magic used to be, now you can recreate it at home!

And now perhaps we can move this discussion to a different thread, this one is drifting seriously!:)
 

Tim

Active member
Hi Tim. I don't mean to be argumentative, but I've owned and used MF (IQ180 and now the 645Z) and I tend to agree with Michael Reichmann's conclusion here :

"In every case no one could reliably tell the difference between 13X19" prints shot with the $40,000 Hasselblad and Phase One 39 Megapixel back, and the new $500 Canon G10."

However, what I can say with confidence about printing is that more than perhaps the camera, it is the printer and even more importantly the print-engine that makes the difference. I print using QImage which I run in a Windows shell on my Mac. At even 5X7 size, the difference between this approach and printing via Photoshop or LR is obvious. The best $70 you can ever spend on your photography.

And sorry about causing more thread drift :)
I don't mean to be argumentative either but I have seen the difference and have a photog friend who also can.
The 8 x 10 from the Sigma Merrill were better than the LX3 and even the X100. I don't know what was wrong about Michael's test but it does not always apply IMO.
I don't always print inkjet either.
 

Pradeep

Member
I don't mean to be argumentative either but I have seen the difference and have a photog friend who also can.
The 8 x 10 from the Sigma Merrill were better than the LX3 and even the X100. I don't know what was wrong about Michael's test but it does not always apply IMO.
I don't always print inkjet either.
Tim, I've also owned all three of the cameras you mention and still have the LX3 (gosh, what a gear slut I am!).

I agree, a low resolution image will be obviously yield a print that will be of low resolution and depending upon the size of the print one may be able to tell it apart from a higher resolution camera. So the size of the final print is perhaps the key.

When I bought my Phase IQ180, I was told by many that you could tell the difference between the prints from it and the Canon 1DX at 8X10 size. I found that to be absolutely untrue. I have not done Reichmann's test myself since I don't have the exact same cameras, but my own testing of the Canon and Phase (18MP vs 80MP and more than twice the sensor size) files did not show me any difference at 13X19. Yes, at 24X36, sure.

I may not have the same sharp vision or ability as you, so this may be my failing, but if so, it means I am easily pleased, which in this instance is a good thing.

Regards.
 

Pradeep

Member
Mine should be coming in this week.

Anybody know if the L-plate for the previous version would fit? Any other ideas for a good camera plate? I am not really looking to do vertical compositions but need something to clamp my Black Rapid on to. I suppose any generic plate would do for this, but having one that is precisely built for this one would be ideal.
 

dandrewk

New member
What are the feelings about using a UV/Haze filter on this camera for protection?

I already have a 49mm Hoya (nano coat), and usually I do use these filters on other lenses. On the RX, I am torn - Worry about potential for a minuscule, imperceptible image degradation on an awesome lens, or worry about a very expensive repair and not having the camera for a few weeks.
 
V

Vivek

Guest
What are the feelings about using a UV/Haze filter on this camera for protection?

I already have a 49mm Hoya (nano coat), and usually I do use these filters on other lenses. On the RX, I am torn - Worry about potential for a minuscule, imperceptible image degradation on an awesome lens, or worry about a very expensive repair and not having the camera for a few weeks.
..
 

Tim

Active member
What are the feelings about using a UV/Haze filter on this camera for protection?

I already have a 49mm Hoya (nano coat), and usually I do use these filters on other lenses. On the RX, I am torn - Worry about potential for a minuscule, imperceptible image degradation on an awesome lens, or worry about a very expensive repair and not having the camera for a few weeks.
I used to be a filter guy, not so much any more.
You could put one on and do some tests.
Not all filters are the same quality. ND types seem to be a good example of variations in quality.
I once tried a circular pol on my DP2M and the results were horrific to say the least. A form of Low-mography :).

A hood is perhaps a partial alternative but also has some extra benefit from shielding stray light as well as fingerprints.
If you do, do a test please let us know your findings.
 
Got my hands on a loaner Friday and any fears regarding loss of the original RX1's "magic" have been allayed. This camera is awesome.

I've read with interest some of the earlier posts here regarding perceptual acuity of the 42mp sensor vs a 24 or even 12mp sensor and based on my experience with a7RII, tend to agree but what I'm seeing out of this camera turns that notion upside down. I keep doing a double-check of my sharpness settings to make sure they aren't jacked up excessively - they aren't. And images look sharp wide open at standard view, no need to zoom in to 100% to "feel" the detail.

Battery life also wasn't as bad for me as I feared. I shot in 50 degree weather Friday night for six hours - 750 exposures - and depleted two batteries fully with the third showing full bars still. I turned on airplane mode unless needed (I did transfer one photo to the phone) and switched the camera off in between shots as I always did with the original RX1.

AF Tracking and Eye AF are as good as they are on the a7RII - incredible to have this level of AF capability in this tiny package.

The one downside to all of the camera's new super powers is the lack of space on the body and the size of the buttons. Now that we have the option to customize them more completely (thanks you Sony), you are going to be using them more than on the original RX1. A small gripe, and one I'll accept in return for he compact size of the camera. Might have to try out some of those third party button enhancers. Anyone have experience or recommendations on good ones?

Tip - if you want to use the Eye AF feature, the only way to do so is to program it to a button. I'm using the AEL button so I can hold it down and simultaneously trip the shutter.
 
Last edited:

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
I have these buttons on my A7rII thanks to Cindy's recommendation work very nice. You can also buy a product called Sugra. Think I spelled that right and make buttons. Again Cindy with recommendation. Folks should try these they really help
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Dang it I knew I spelled it wrong , what else is new. I want this freaking camera. I might have to borrow money. Any loan sharks out there for short term financing.
 

doublezd

New member
Re:'"I keep doing a double-check of my sharpness settings to make sure they aren't jacked up excessively - they aren't. And images look sharp wide open at standard view, no need to zoom in to 100% to "feel" the detail."

Thank you for your post, Show Performance.

I know very little about post processing, i.e. applying sharpness settings...

But can you comment on how sharp the images are straight out of camera?

Thank you
 
Last edited:

dandrewk

New member
Got my hands on a loaner Friday and any fears regarding loss of the original RX1's "magic" have been allayed. This camera is awesome.

I've read with interest some of the earlier posts here regarding perceptual acuity of the 42mp sensor vs a 24 or even 12mp sensor and based on my experience with a7RII, tend to agree but what I'm seeing out of this camera turns that notion upside down. I keep doing a double-check of my sharpness settings to make sure they aren't jacked up excessively - they aren't. And images look sharp wide open at standard view, no need to zoom in to 100% to "feel" the detail.

Battery life also wasn't as bad for me as I feared. I shot in 50 degree weather Friday night for six hours - 750 exposures - and depleted two batteries fully with the third showing full bars still. I turned off airplane mode unless needed (I did transfer one photo to the phone) and switched the camera off in between shots as I always did with the original RX1.

AF Tracking and Eye AF are as good as they are on the a7RII - incredible to have this level of AF capability in this tiny package.

The one downside to all of the camera's new super powers is the lack of space on the body and the size of the buttons. Now that we have the option to customize them more completely (thanks you Sony), you are going to be using them more than on the original RX1. A small gripe, and one I'll accept in return for he compact size of the camera. Might have to try out some of those third party button enhancers. Anyone have experience or recommendations on good ones?

Tip - if you want to use the Eye AF feature, the only way to do so is to program it to a button. I'm using the AEL button so I can hold it down and simultaneously trip the shutter.
Great review, I agree with just about everything! :)

There seems to be a difference in battery life many are reporting. Some have said "around 50", and others have been getting 200 shots per battery. Things like turning WiFi off (btw, that means turning airplane mode "on" ;) ) and turning off the camera between shots can make a big difference. I wonder how much difference the EVF/LCD quality setting makes. It defaults to "standard", but I suspect many switch that to the higher setting.

I also set the AEL switch to Eye AF. That puts the tip of my thumb on the button, which is ideal.
 

dandrewk

New member
Warning about third party versions of the Sony thumb grip. I received the Fotodiox (type B). The fit on the hot shoe was VERY tight. It took a bit of force to insert, and the only way to remove it without damaging the mount is wedging with a tiny screwdriver. This is not something you'd want to do a lot if you have to remove the grip for a flash. Even so, after a couple of insert/removals, the thing snapped. It was cheap ($14.95) so not a huge loss.

note - Fotodiox has a "type D" version for the RX. It's the same as "B" but with a swivel for the appendage. A DPR user got one and had to file it down to get it to fit properly.

Everything else about the thumb grip worked great. For me, it made handling the RX much easier. So much so, I bit a major bullet and ordered the overpriced Sony version which has a locking mechanism instead relying on friction. I got a used one from B&H, so it didn't hurt quite so much.
 
Top