600 shots into a new A900...some observations

[benroy]

Thanks to Cindy, Carlos, Roger, and LJ for their contributions to the computer search...if I could figure out how to PM each of you individually, I would.

Carlos: I'm in Boca Raton. You bought my Zeiss 21 ZM, I believe.

Furthermore, the consensus seems to be to upgrade the computer rather than dump the A900 system. I'm encouraged and grateful for all of your input.

Roy Benson

BTW: I just found the PM button...I'll try to contact each of you tonight. Thanks for your patience.

 

[Guy Mancuso]

I would wait for this announcement coming the Imac looks like it is a serious contender

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Roy click on there name on the left side here. A host of options comes up.

I agree update the box and not the tool unless the tool is something you truly don't want . But i want one of those bad boys myself. LOL

 

[jonoslack]

Roy,
While I would advocate something like a Mac Pro or MacBook Pro, that may actually be more than you may want and need. As Jono mentioned, the iMac is a decent machine also, and at a much more reasonable cost.

LJ

Thanks for the reference. FWIW we have 3 macbook pro's , 1 basic mac pro and two imacs.
For photography the 24" 2.6Ghz imac is much MUCH MUCH faster than even the newest macbook pro - why? I've no idea, but it is the case.

For processing A900 files in Aperture, a 2.6 Ghz 24" imac with 4Gb RAM is perfectly okay.

Roy - you really should be using Aperture or Lightroom, if you are a professional trying to output large numbers of files for clients, then there are strong arguments for using Capture one or photoshop, but if you're doing stuff for your own pleasure you really do need to use a DAM with non-destructive changes, using TIFF files on a mac mini with small storage seems to me like real masochism

 

[robmac]

Roy - looks like Apple just made your day. New Minis with 2.26Ghz C2Duo and up to 4GB RAM plus enhanced graphics processor for a very nice price. Keep the old mini as a music server, etc, keep your screen and away you go.

 

[Guy Mancuso]

You will want the most ram the fastest hard drive 7200 but I think they only offer 5400. Also go for the fastest processor . You cannot upgrade the processor after the fact so real important get that as priority the fastest processor . Ram and hard drives can be upgraded later and I think THINK they are user friendly to upgrade . Is that correct on the mini's

 

[robmac]

Not sure on minis, but on iMacs and Macbooks RAM upgrades are easy (and MUCH cheaper after market). I suspect Minis are just as easy. HD upgrades on the laptops easily done - on the iMacs, it's not an options. Minis, not sure,

That said, FW800 (or e-sata if macbook pro or mac pro) external 7200 drives are dirt cheap and getting cheaper and my personal pref vs one large internal drive.

As said earlier, for anyone not really versed in this stuff, LLoyd Chambers site is awesome for all the gory details and recs, instructions, performance stats, etc. for choosing, upgrading and optimizing all varieties of Macs for photo processing - and at various budget levels

 

[surfotog]

Greetings all, my first post here. As a new A900 user and something of a computer dunce, how much difference will there be between the three processors of the new imacs? I read Lloyd Chambers' site and he seems to think that there isn't a huge performance increase with the faster processors. FWIW, I'm a low volume shooter who won't be doing batch processing. I want to keep my computer expenditure as low as possible, without hindering my workflow, as I need some money for lenses!
I'll also be using it to work on drum scans of 6x7 slides and B&W, also low volume.
Thanks in advance for the help. It's great to see a dedicated Sony forum here.

Cheers,
Scott

 

[robmac]

I did an undergrad degree in software design (before I wised up and went to business school ;>) and Lloyd's advice is on-the money in all aspects...and while I won't even attempt to replicate it here, some thoughts:

You'll get the best bang for the $$$ in any computer by maxing out RAM as much as budget allows followed by ensuring fast hard drives (e.g. 7200 rpm+). Solid State Drives or SSDs (basically big internal CF cards) vs mechanical hard drives are the fastest, but still, as yet, spendy.

The more memory the less swapping the machine does to/from disk and the faster tasks get done - and the less strain processing large files.

Biggest mistake folks make is getting THE whopping processor and not having enough $$ left to max RAM and ensure fast drives. Like hooking a garden hose to a fire truck...

CPU can't really be upgraded and if the upgrade fee is very modest and in-line with %'ntge increase in performance, it's not a bad idea if budget allows.

E.q. 2Ghz-2.26Ghz = a 13% (on paper) THEORETICAL improvement in processing speed. However, that's on paper. A boost in clock speed for a processor doesn't necessarily (and usually does not) mean a linear improvement in processing speed. It varies by application, amount of RAM installed, HD speed - you get the idea..... That's why it's not always the best bang/buck.

In our example, if price premium required is in-line with 13% or (ideally) better, it's worth it if the budget allows AFTER (stress AFTER) RAM is maxed and drives upgraded.

Go for a decent internal drive at 7200 rpm if you can, partition it, etc as Lloyd suggests and then add cheaper external 7200+ rpm drives . No single point of failure, makes backups easier, etc. LC's RAID advice is also a VERY good idea for boosting performance and cost free if using APPLE.

Oh, the other thing when buying a new machine is to make sure it has at least one Firewire 800 AND ideally an e-sata port and buy external drives with multiple interfaces (or a separate drive/enclosure system). Drives depreciate like a rock off a cliff and having a good 7200 RPM unit with multiple interfaces out the back can last you thru many computers.

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Problem is the applications C1 wants processing power and the more the better. Adobe products love ram. So it is a balancing act .Most folks tricks are buy the higher processor since you can't do that after you purchase but but your Ram and hard drives elsewhere at a cost savings and sometimes those cost savings a huge compared to what Apple sells there Ram and Hard drives for. The cost savings alone going outside the Apple store on Ram and Hard drives usually pays for the higher end processor. My issue right now is the processor. i have all my machines maxed out for the highest performance possible but now limited by processing speed in C1 due to the processor. So know what apps you will be running and what they like to run with. CS4 is a ram hunger pig.

 

[robmac]

Gets even trickier when you start investing in Pros, etc - where some apps use the extra processors (read $$$) efficiently and some do not . Gotta love SW developers ;>

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Exactly got love them. I think we have a few here actually. LOL

 

[mwalker]

I have the MBP 2.4 dual core and I just bumped the ram from 4GB to a 6GB kit from OWC for 175.00 there is a small rebate for my existing RAM which would reduce this price further. They say it should make a big difference in PS.

http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/5300DDR2S6GP/

4GB PC5300 DDR3 4GB+2GB SO-DIMM Kit 6.0GB (2GB + 4GB Module Set) Upgrade kit for MacBook(Late 2007/Early 2008, MacBook Pro(Mid/Late 2007, Early 2008), and iMac (Late 2007) systems with Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa or Penryn processor. Lifetime Warranty.

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Mike it does i bought the same chip in the same box.

 

[Bill Caulfeild-Browne]

Well, I'm way past 600 shots now - much closer to 6,000! And I've used the a900 in -24C all the way to +36C temperatures. (I just got back from Polynesia - very hot!).

For DSLR work, primarily wildlife, I'm a Canon convert so my comments tend to be based on my experience with the 1D series of cameras. (I use Mamiya/Phase for landscape work, so I deem myself pretty critical.)

What I like about the a900 - fabulous viewfinder, great menu structure, easy MLU and delay, two batteries with the vertical grip, lovely tonality and SSS works with all lenses. (I always wanted Canon to produce an IS macro lens!) And did I mention lovely tonality?

Things I don't like are quite minor - the SSS doesn't inspire the same confidence that you're steady as Canon's IS does, because you can't see it in action. But it does work. Also, the shutter sounds clunky because of the mirror's articulated design, I think. The a700 which I have as a back-up is much quieter.

My only serious gripe is that if you leave the camera turned on, hanging around your neck, you can inadvertently change some settings. Seems some buttons/joystick can be depressed by one's chest or maybe belt buckle. This is especially true if you're using the vertical grip. I leave it turned off now until I need it.

And finally - the lenses. My 24-70 Zeiss is way better at the short end than my 24-105 Canon was. The 70-300 G is fabulous as long as you can live with the smaller aperture. (Definitely better than my Canon 70-300 DO at the long end.) I like the 500 mirror lens but find I really need to use a tripod, despite SSS.

The 300 f2.8 and a 1.4X arrived just before my trip and I didn't take it with me so I'm just now trying it out. It's heavier - I think - than Canon's 300, but at first glance gives results that are comparable. It is eerily silent in operation. I'll check it out thoroughly in the next few days and report with pix....

And incidentally, much as I love Lightroom, ACR is a lousy converter for Sony files. Aperture seems best to me, but Capture One is very close and that's what I use for critical work because I use it for my Phase files, naturally.

An unabashed fan,

Bill

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Nice report Bill, love to hear more. That instilled a lot of confidence for me

 

[Bill Caulfeild-Browne]

Just remember, Guy, it's only money....
Bill

 

[Braeside]

My only serious gripe is that if you leave the camera turned on, hanging around your neck, you can inadvertently change some settings. Seems some buttons/joystick can be depressed by one's chest or maybe belt buckle. This is especially true if you're using the vertical grip. I leave it turned off now until I need it.

Try Ctrl dial Lock = ON in menu 2 of the Gear Menu.

Then the dials etc only work after you wake the camera up with a half press.

 

[Bill Caulfeild-Browne]

I learn something new every day! (I should have known, actually, as my Phase back has the same feature.)
Thanks David,
Bill

 

[Braeside]

Bill, I'll admit it isn't obvious from the manual what that feature does and a few folks thought that you had to go to the menu again to unlock the dial each time, which of course would have been hopeless!