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Greater then 1:1 Macro with Sony A7R
- Thread starter felix5616
- Start date
pegelli
Well-known member
Meike has E-mount extension tubes with all required electrical contacts to maintain lens operation. Make sure you get the FF-ones, they have older models but those are only for APS-C and vignet on a FF E-mount camera. That will get you closer then 1:1 with the SEL90/2.8 macro.
Secondly you could just crop a bit, plenty of resolution in the A7r and plenty sharpness of the 90/2.8 to still print to very reasonable sizes.
Secondly you could just crop a bit, plenty of resolution in the A7r and plenty sharpness of the 90/2.8 to still print to very reasonable sizes.
V
Vivek
Guest
There is no guarantee that the newer versions of the expensive adapters will not vignette with the FE lenses.
There is total silence about this from ALL of the sony reps (ambassadors). This should give a warning. The TCs are also not useful, IIRC.
Don't waste your cash on the extension tubes unless you can quickly check and return for refund if they do not work.
The narrow E mount causes huge headaches when it comes to larger than life macros.
There is total silence about this from ALL of the sony reps (ambassadors). This should give a warning. The TCs are also not useful, IIRC.
Don't waste your cash on the extension tubes unless you can quickly check and return for refund if they do not work.
The narrow E mount causes huge headaches when it comes to larger than life macros.
seb
Member
Hardly use it, but I did a few 2:1 with extension tubes (52mm in total) and the 90/2.8 G. The extension tubes are some cheap no-name with electric contacts. There was no vignette so far but I had some light leak when the light came from a bad angle.
Here are two shots:
(full res on flickr if you're interested in)
mosquito!
spiders see everything
and here is the test shot of a ruler to check the 2:1 in this combo. from line to line it's 5mm. So the picture (horizontal) shows around 17mm in the sharp area. Which is around the half of the sensor size (36mm):
getting closer!
edit: another one where you can judge the vignetting:
1cm dice
all shots were made with at least two flashes.
Here are two shots:
(full res on flickr if you're interested in)
mosquito!spiders see everythingand here is the test shot of a ruler to check the 2:1 in this combo. from line to line it's 5mm. So the picture (horizontal) shows around 17mm in the sharp area. Which is around the half of the sensor size (36mm):
getting closer!edit: another one where you can judge the vignetting:
1cm diceall shots were made with at least two flashes.
seb
Member
I'll check that at home and post a pic of them. I'm still at work and will go for a run when I'm home. Maybe it's been late until I can post you the details.
seb
Member
They are from Meike. Sorry, I thought it was something no-name.
These are the NEX version:
http://www.meikestore.com/product/m...micro-dslr-10mm-16mm-e-mount-camera/2718.html
But I never saw vignetting in the shots up to now. The last one is a shot I made few minutes ago of a light bulb with some dirt on it. I'm too lazy to set up everything (tripod etc.). The shot should be enough to judge about vignetting. Of course, I did no vignetting correction for the lens or with the vignetting slider in C1.
These are the NEX version:
http://www.meikestore.com/product/m...micro-dslr-10mm-16mm-e-mount-camera/2718.html
But I never saw vignetting in the shots up to now. The last one is a shot I made few minutes ago of a light bulb with some dirt on it. I'm too lazy to set up everything (tripod etc.). The shot should be enough to judge about vignetting. Of course, I did no vignetting correction for the lens or with the vignetting slider in C1.
seb
Member
Just one note about the extension tubes with the 90/2.8 G Macro. The lens is that sharp that I'm still not sure if a crop (without tubes) wouldn't give you the better result. 
Superb details!
Just one note about the extension tubes with the 90/2.8 G Macro. The lens is that sharp that I'm still not sure if a crop (without tubes) wouldn't give you the better result.
mjm6
Member
If you are looking in to bellows, I would strongly suggest the Olympus line. They made a lot of excellent bellows gear, and the prices are generally lower than the Canon or Nikon lines because fewer people are using them.
I put together a few different bellows systems with the Olympus products for crazy low money.
The bellows lenses are specifically designed for 1:1 or larger, depending on the lens, and overall I find the quality very high.
I started with a bellows and an 80mm lens and the slide copier attachment (the initial reason for getting the kit), and have expanded the kit considerably. I think I have three bellows now, a handful of the lenses, some of the rails, adapters, all of the most recent macro/micro bellows lenses, etc. You can typically easily find the bellows on Ebay for $50-100 depending on the accessories. The basic lenses are pretty inexpensive as well. I think the 20mm is the most expensive, but unless you are looking at very high magnifications, you wouldn't need to go there.
The two things to watch out for on the bellows is to make sure the rear adapter with the Olympus mount is included. It is detachable, and without it, the bellows is useless. Second, you want to look at the photos and look at the white plastic blocks that are part of the brake/lock mechanism on the focus rail blocks. They can crack or if heavily discolored or deformed, pass on the bellows unless it is really cheap, because it may end up being a parts bellows otherwise.
Here's an example (not mine):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olympus-OM-Auto-Bellows-For-OM-1-OM-2-OM-3-OM-4-/222504559550?hash=item33ce4e23be:g:s6oAAOSwTM5YxdR8
I put together a few different bellows systems with the Olympus products for crazy low money.
The bellows lenses are specifically designed for 1:1 or larger, depending on the lens, and overall I find the quality very high.
I started with a bellows and an 80mm lens and the slide copier attachment (the initial reason for getting the kit), and have expanded the kit considerably. I think I have three bellows now, a handful of the lenses, some of the rails, adapters, all of the most recent macro/micro bellows lenses, etc. You can typically easily find the bellows on Ebay for $50-100 depending on the accessories. The basic lenses are pretty inexpensive as well. I think the 20mm is the most expensive, but unless you are looking at very high magnifications, you wouldn't need to go there.
The two things to watch out for on the bellows is to make sure the rear adapter with the Olympus mount is included. It is detachable, and without it, the bellows is useless. Second, you want to look at the photos and look at the white plastic blocks that are part of the brake/lock mechanism on the focus rail blocks. They can crack or if heavily discolored or deformed, pass on the bellows unless it is really cheap, because it may end up being a parts bellows otherwise.
Here's an example (not mine):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olympus-OM-Auto-Bellows-For-OM-1-OM-2-OM-3-OM-4-/222504559550?hash=item33ce4e23be:g:s6oAAOSwTM5YxdR8
Shashin
Well-known member
What you need is a stereoscope. But Minolta made a specialty lens for 1x to 3x magnifications. An e-mount to a-mount adapter should make it work.
http://www.dyxum.com/lenses/Minolta-AF-3x-1x--1.7-2.8-Macro_lens199.html
I have used this lens and it is remarkable.
http://www.dyxum.com/lenses/Minolta-AF-3x-1x--1.7-2.8-Macro_lens199.html
I have used this lens and it is remarkable.