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A7R III and 17 & 24 TS-E... what's the best adapter for that combo ?

A

archivue

Active member
Hi,

i'm a nikon user, but i need PC lenses, and i've find good deals for a a 17 Ts-e and a 24 Ts-e... ( the Nikon 24 pc-e wasn't good enough... and the 19 too large in most situations ).

i've read conflicting reviews about adapting these lenses on the A7R line... but it was we older adapters.

The A7R III looks good for me ( i'm using live view most of the time)... what's the best adapter for it ?

Metabones Smart Adapter (Mark V) ? 100% reliable ? sharp in the corners using shift ?


Thanks
 
D

daf

Member
archivue said:
Hi,

i'm a nikon user, but i need PC lenses, and i've find good deals for a a 17 Ts-e and a 24 Ts-e... ( the Nikon 24 pc-e wasn't good enough... and the 19 too large in most situations ).

i've read conflicting reviews about adapting these lenses on the A7R line... but it was we older adapters.

The A7R III looks good for me ( i'm using live view most of the time)... what's the best adapter for it ?

Metabones Smart Adapter (Mark V) ? 100% reliable ? sharp in the corners using shift ?


Thanks
Click to expand...
From my own experience, due to field curvature and focus shift : the only way to acheived accurate focusing with the 24 and 17 tse is focusing at working aperture... this mean at f11 or f13.
Then any dumb adapter can do the job if correctly //
no need for electronics.
I've been using the metabones but always worked badly...then moved to an hcam master (hartblei) which is very nice but sometimes suffer from flare due to internal reflection i still use it a lot...then moved to the actus+basic eos mount, this system is fantastic for architecture... it allow easy 2axes shift, tilt, precise focus, and give you acces to a lot of lenses and enlarger lenses (componon apo hm = digitar) cheap but brillant.
 
A

archivue

Active member
daf said:
From my own experience, due to field curvature and focus shift : the only way to acheived accurate focusing with the 24 and 17 tse is focusing at working aperture... this mean at f11 or f13.
Click to expand...
So you need first to set the F stop on a canon body and leave it like this... will it stays at F11 for ever ?
I'm using this kind of lens at f11 all the time anyway...
 
D

daf

Member
archivue said:
So you need first to set the F stop on a canon body and leave it like this... will it stays at F11 for ever ?
I'm using this kind of lens at f11 all the time anyway...
Click to expand...
Yes ... it will stay at f11 for ever :)
Using large shift, you might be happier with f13
What is important is to have a perfectly paralelle // adpater, so as said before actus mini, hcam master or novoflex might be the best choice and put the money here .

an option is to have a cheap electronic adapter with you, so if needed you can adjust the aperture, bit being honest i probably haven't change mine on any of my lenses since 1or 2 years...

The tricks to have the lens stop down, is to shoot for exemple 3secondes at f13, and removing the lens during the exposure, this works with electronics adapter on the sony or on a canon
 
A

archivue

Active member
daf said:
And if you have not yet bought the tse... you might have a look at tje canon 11-24 + a tiltshift solution ..can be an hcam or the actus :
https://www.getdpi.com/forum/sony/54571-hcam-master-ts-11-24mm.html
I've done a couple of shooting with it (rental) and this lens is brilliant, even shifted.
Click to expand...
Hcam looks good, but they should improve their website... the worst website on earth ;-(
A good rebuilt of the website, white background, no obsolete infos, and price with pictures and they will be able to sell much more stuff...

Most of time i will use the 24... and the 17 on occasion only... i want something easy to use otherwise i stick with my beloved RM3D..
 
Last edited:
J

JohnSondeyker

New member
archivue said:
i've tested the 85 PC-E with the last version of the complete without success ;-(
but it was ok with Sigma art / nikon.

TS-E 17 and 24 ok with the metabones !
Click to expand...
Hello Archivue,

I am using the Sigma Canon EF - E Mount Converter MC-11 with good succes with the TSE 17 and 24 mm II lenses.
Way better then a Fotodiox Pro adapter with bad internal reflections and also better then the first version of the Metabones 4 EF - E mount adapter/converter. I had to sent that one back because that lost (electronical) contact again and again. What was disturbing while working, forcing you to dismantle the lens and put it back on again.
The Sigma converter works beautiful ! And is also cheaper.. No internal reflection due to "light absorbing material" in side.
I also use it with Pentax FA 645 lenses, like the 35 mm / 55 mm / 75 mm and also the 150 mm together with the Zoerk Panorama Shift adapter for Pentax 645
 
J

JohnSondeyker

New member
archivue said:
i've tested the 85 PC-E with the last version of the complete without success ;-(
but it was ok with Sigma art / nikon.

TS-E 17 and 24 ok with the metabones !
Click to expand...
Hello Archivue,

I am using the Sigma Canon EF - E Mount Converter MC-11 with good succes with the TSE 17 and 24 mm II lenses.
Way better then a Fotodiox Pro adapter with bad internal reflections and also better then the first version of the Metabones 4 EF - E mount adapter/converter. I had to sent that one back because that lost (electronical) contact again and again. What was disturbing while working, forcing you to dismantle the lens and put it back on again.
The Sigma converter works beautiful ! And is also cheaper.. No internal reflection due to "light absorbing material" in side.
I also use it with Pentax FA 645 lenses, like the 35 mm / 55 mm / 75 mm and also the 150 mm together with the Zoerk Panorama Shift adapter for Pentax 645.
 
A

archivue

Active member
JohnSondeyker said:
Hello Archivue,

I am using the Sigma Canon EF - E Mount Converter MC-11 with good succes with the TSE 17 and 24 mm II lenses.
Way better then a Fotodiox Pro adapter with bad internal reflections and also better then the first version of the Metabones 4 EF - E mount adapter/converter. I had to sent that one back because that lost (electronical) contact again and again. What was disturbing while working, forcing you to dismantle the lens and put it back on again.
The Sigma converter works beautiful ! And is also cheaper.. No internal reflection due to "light absorbing material" in side.
I also use it with Pentax FA 645 lenses, like the 35 mm / 55 mm / 75 mm and also the 150 mm together with the Zoerk Panorama Shift adapter for Pentax 645
Click to expand...
i've bought the Metabones V... i've send my 24 TS-E II to Canon for repair, when i will be back, i will try to borrow a MC-11 to make a side by side comparison... i thought it didn't work with ts-e...

Smallrig have a nice arca adapter for the MC-11...
http://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-lens-adapter-support-bracket-for-sigma-mc-11-2063.html
 
Last edited:
Schafphoto

Schafphoto

Member
archivue said:
i've bought the Metabones V... i've send my 24 TS-E II to Canon for repair, when i will be back, i will try to borrow a MC-11 to make a side by side comparison... i thought it didn't work with ts-e...

Smallrig have a nice arca adapter for the MC-11...
http://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-lens-adapter-support-bracket-for-sigma-mc-11-2063.html
Click to expand...
So, Archivue, what have you found with the Metabones 5 and the MC-11? I have a MB5 ad have the MC-11 on order. I have also been contemplating a Kolari vision ultrathin cover glass filter replacement because they can also remove the AA filter. I have not found a 28mm to 35mm lens that performs as well last the 24TSE for shifting. I'd like to use a 35mm Rodenstock Digital but I think the rear distances don't work out.

-Schaf
 
A

archivue

Active member
Schafphoto said:
So, Archivue, what have you found with the Metabones 5 and the MC-11? I have a MB5 ad have the MC-11 on order. I have also been contemplating a Kolari vision ultrathin cover glass filter replacement because they can also remove the AA filter. I have not found a 28mm to 35mm lens that performs as well last the 24TSE for shifting. I'd like to use a 35mm Rodenstock Digital but I think the rear distances don't work out.

-Schaf
Click to expand...
After having tune a Metabones V, it's sharper than with the Sigma ( i've rented it... so, impossible to fine tune... ).

But the sigma allowed more movements with the 24 without vignetting !

But i've test it with my friend's 24... i still waiting for mine !

I've also test the novoflex ( you have to fix the F stop... ), maybe the best performer...

When my 24 will arrived, i will tried to fine tune the novoflex... anyway, i'm using that type of lens at F11 all the time !
 
Schafphoto

Schafphoto

Member
archivue said:
After having tune a Metabones V, it's sharper than with the Sigma ( i've rented it... so, impossible to fine tune... ).

But the sigma allowed more movements with the 24 without vignetting !

When my 24 will arrived, i will tried to fine tune the novoflex... anyway, i'm using that type of lens at F11 all the time !
Click to expand...
You are just adding foil shims like others have shown online to move the lens out from the body?
 
M

mandonbossi

New member
Daf, can you please explain this statement of yours

"From my own experience, due to field curvature and focus shift : the only way to acheived accurate focusing with the 24 and 17 tse is focusing at working aperture... this mean at f11 or f13."

I don't understand why this could be better than focusing wide open?

Thanks :)
 
D

daf

Member
mandonbossi said:
Daf, can you please explain this statement of yours

"From my own experience, due to field curvature and focus shift : the only way to acheived accurate focusing with the 24 and 17 tse is focusing at working aperture... this mean at f11 or f13."

I don't understand why this could be better than focusing wide open?

Thanks :)
Click to expand...
Field curvature mean: the focus plan is curved, so a big difference between center and shifted corners

Focus shift mean: the focus point move when stopping down, for exemple if you focus wide open at 2m then the real focus point might now be at 3m at f11, this is partly covered by dof, but not totaly so if you really want to focus at 2m the only way is to focus the lens stop down to working aperture...
 
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