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Thread: New A900

  1. #51
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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by Guy Mancuso View Post
    BTW I want some Raws of your images Terry . Like to process them in C1
    I have some old ones here that you can plunder if you want Guy:

    Sony RAW files (DNG format)

    I've converted them to DNG (embedded) to make them smaller, but I can detect no difference processing them in C1 or Aperture from the original Sony RAW files.

    All the files beginning with _DSC and ending with .DNG are from the A900. Some are a little underexposed - but that's me determined not to blow the highlights.

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    Re: New A900

    Thanks all, I plan on doing two things. One is to keep it simple and use the basic camera settings as you say and the other is to use the neutral settings (as custom) and a LR preset. I do like understanding what Douglas has said/done.

    I don't think I can come to grips with the green LCD image from uniWB but will take care with the histogram. For slower paced tripod work, I can see how I would use the intelligent preview to fine tune things.

    Guess I'm excited to be up and out this AM....I can't sleep!

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    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post
    HI Guy
    I wasn't advocating using Daylight white balance in Tungsten
    to be honest, when lighting get's mixed and artificial, THAT'S when I use AWB - or a custom WB.

    But to use daylight in natural light (whatever kind of natural light it may be), gives you a really good feel for the colour of the camera. It also gives you an excellent version of the light you actually saw.

    I agree with what Edward said (and I think what you meant). Keep it simple and you'll learn about the camera. Which produces great colour in raws if it's just left on Daylight.

    The spot metering on the button is an absolute wonder though - I leave mine on matrix almost all the time, and if I think it's wrong it's so easy to take a spot reading with one press of the button.
    Yea I was just saying when go into tungsten light than switch to AWB or Tungsten on those big sweeping changes otherwise just use daylight and 200 or 300 kelvin change is great in any RC. Moving thousands is when trouble starts. Yes keep it simple until she understands it better. I see too many folks when teaching trying to do to much with a new cam. Just settle in and get the feel first
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by TEBnewyork View Post
    Thanks all, I plan on doing two things. One is to keep it simple and use the basic camera settings as you say and the other is to use the neutral settings (as custom) and a LR preset. I do like understanding what Douglas has said/done.

    I don't think I can come to grips with the green LCD image from uniWB but will take care with the histogram. For slower paced tripod work, I can see how I would use the intelligent preview to fine tune things.

    Guess I'm excited to be up and out this AM....I can't sleep!
    Exactly and I do NOT want to undermine what Douglas has said at all and stuff to understand and apply later. That all sounded real good to me but learning how to use a spot meter is one thing you need to learn also. Just hitting different colors can throw a meter south in a hurry so you need to know those basics as well. I learned the Zone system and you learn how to use a spot meter in a hurry or your in big trouble. Green grass is neutral grey but depending on color it is a different percentage. See what I mean
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by Guy Mancuso View Post
    Exactly and I do NOT want to undermine what Douglas has said at all and stuff to understand and apply later. That all sounded real good to me but learning how to use a spot meter is one thing you need to learn also. Just hitting different colors can throw a meter south in a hurry so you need to know those basics as well. I learned the Zone system and you learn how to use a spot meter in a hurry or your in big trouble. Green grass is neutral grey but depending on color it is a different percentage. See what I mean
    Actually, I am OK with spot metering. The funny thing about getting the hang of spot metering is where I learned to control it. A P&S camera that had no manual controls and was prone to blowing highlights. It did have spot metering and easy access to exposure compensation. So, I spent a whole summer shooting this little camera that blows highlights with +2 to +3 EV.

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    Re: New A900

    Don't own a 900, at least not yet, but very interesting thread. For sake of rest of us, if Terry et al could keep this going as something of a getting to know the A900 & glass pseudo 'blog', I think many folks would find it very interesting.

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    Re: New A900

    I agree with Rob, this thread is great (and I don't own an A900, either.) I am fascinated by what Douglas said and what others have added.

    Terry, enjoy your day with the new camera and please keep this post going.

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    Re: New A900

    Hi Terry,

    congratulations on your A900 - I'll be keeping a keen eye here on your first impressions... please post some samples as you get going!

    I've only picked one up once at the Focus on Imaging show... but the OVF was very impressive, and I really like the colour I've seen in Jono's posts.

    Cheers

    Brian

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    Re: New A900

    Hey, Jono and Guy, I do the same thing with WB when I'm not using uniWB. In other words, I also keep the camera set at Daylight for everything outside of mixed lighting and tungsten. If I do use uniWB, I batch edit all the pics in the converter at the equivalent of Sony's Daylight setting (assuming daylight environment) in order to get a color feel for the camera like you mentioned. UniWB has been a gradual transition for me, because it is nice to get a general idea of the colors in the scene (even though the camera LCD is far from color accurate,) but the more I use uniWB, the more I get used to visualizing things. Like I mentioned above, a primary use for uniWB deals with color filters and DR increases, but I've not had a chance to delve into that world much, yet. More technically based shooters would disagree with this, but, if you're not doing the color filter thing, I would say that you can at least get close to using uniWB by simply looking using your green channel in the histogram as a guide....but you didn't hear that from me!

    Edward makes a great point about allowing the camera to make color decisions and such as being similar to using different films, and surely every photographer on here has his/her own way of dealing with their "style." My posts are geared towards getting the highest quality RAW data at capture, because I deal with looks and style after the fact, but I surely understand that we all go through our photography journeys in a different way. Heck, I still shoot at higher ISOs sometimes just to get more grain, or add grain in post. If Iliah Borg joined this forum, I'm sure he'd rip me a new one, because he is an order of magnitude more technical and exacting than I could ever be about this stuff. Jeez, I can't believe I just typed "order of magnitude." What am I turning into?!?! I'm really not as clinical as I seem, and I think that, because I use my dang iphone to post so often, my shortness makes it appear that way. Typing some of these long posts on a 3" touchscreen keyboard deserves its own thread about technique!

    Overall, my goal is to give people unfamiliar with the Sony system a little head start on nailing things down, but it mostly applies to those that are concerned with noise at capture and getting the highest quality initial RAW file as possible. I certainly have no problems with making some sacrifices to fit individual styles. The A900 is bringing a lot of high end Nikon and Canon shooters into the Sony mix, and there are different philosophies in place for optimal shooting. Heck, Sony doesn't even meter middle gray the same as Canon/Nikon! The A900 is much more conservative in metering than its counterparts, and that has given the camera a bit more of a bad rap than it deserves in regards to noise, IMO. This is especially critical if you're using ACR/LR, because, as has been said many times, the design of that converter seems particularly bad at dealing with the A900 files, partially because of the camera's great color separation. Sony didn't help things by designing a camera with an ideal ISO of 320.

    Personally, I'm looking forward to Andrey's (hardloaf) more in depth advice based on his testing experiences with the A900, as that is sure to make my little posts seem quaint. Party!!

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    Re: New A900

    Got up early for the wonderful Ferry Market in SF. Set the camera back to standard settings and wanted to get a feel for the color right from the camera into Lightroom (before making any changes to camera settings) Here are some grabs from the market. I learned from Jono on the daylight WB and almost never use AWB anymore. These were all daylight and it was very grey foggy out. I must say the colors look great to me. Here are a few samples of the veggies. I was playing around with the 135 and getting a feel for the DOF so sorry some of these were shot too wide open and the shallow DOF makes some of the shots less appealing.

    These are straight from the camera to LR only resized for export

    Attachment 16627


    Attachment 16624


    Attachment 16626


    Attachment 16625


    Attachment 16628

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    Last edited by Terry; 23rd May 2009 at 09:28.

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    Re: New A900

    And now for the "local" color

    Attachment 16636

    Too bad I have the cabbage more in focus than the face. It will take some time to get used to this lens

    Attachment 16635

    Attachment 16638

    Similar where the veggies are more in focus than the face
    Attachment 16637

    Attachment 16639

    Off to find a spot where the fog has cleared .....

  13. #63
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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by douglasf13 View Post
    Typing some of these long posts on a 3" touchscreen keyboard deserves its own thread about technique!
    Interesting! Please do explain the technique
    The A900 is much more conservative in metering than its counterparts, and that has given the camera a bit more of a bad rap than it deserves in regards to noise, IMO.
    BTW - I did check that Zone option. I'm pretty positive now that it changes only light meter bias with 0.5EV steps. So -1 takes half stop off from highlights. This means if somebody finds that A900 underexposes too often Zone -1 should take care of that. 1 and 2 will give 0.5 and 1.0 more to highlights. There is no difference if your exposure step is set to 0.3 or 0.5, but 0.3 can be confusing because it doesn't fit exactly in 0.5 zone step, so meter may show 0.6 or 0.3 difference if you check it with different Zone values. Not an issue.

    This is especially critical if you're using ACR/LR, because, as has been said many times, the design of that converter seems particularly bad at dealing with the A900 files, partially because of the camera's great color separation. Sony didn't help things by designing a camera with an ideal ISO of 320.
    ISO numbers for Raw shooters are totally bogus in all kinds of cameras anyway. There is no standard here and vendors are getting more and more creative with every new model. Some camera models from different vendors have more than full stop of difference for the very same ISO number.

    I also want to chime about UniWB a little. It definitely has it's disadvantages and this is entirely camera vendors fault that they still cannot implement proper histogram and clipping warnings for Raw after all those years. Yes, it's green and ugly. My daughter thinks that daddy is joking when sees her green portrait on LCD and laughs, my wife gives me those cuckoo looks and I have difficulties with understanding if shot is sharp enough. However it works and there is no other options unfortunately to get real control over exposure. Last example - I was shooting with flash in a room with warm colored walls and floor. Camera was set to AWB and did balance ok, so pictures on LCD looked decent except one problem - it was constantly showing clipping warnings in some unexpected areas. So I started dialing it down more and more till they stopped blinking, but now picture was definitely underexposed. Here it actually occurred to me that I have AWB. So I switch to UniWB, restore initial settings and guess what - no damn blinking. So there was no overexposure in first place, that's just AWB while compensating flash and colored reflected light clipped some channels and showed the warning even though in Raw data there was no clipping.

    I'll let everyone to make their own conclusions

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by douglasf13 View Post
    My posts are geared towards getting the highest quality RAW data at capture, because I deal with looks and style after the fact, but I surely understand that we all go through our photography journeys in a different way. Party!!
    HI Douglas
    You know I wasn't criticising your approach when you talked about uniWB - I've found all your posts extremely valuable, and these days I'm mostly shooting at 320 ISO - the other settings are different as I'm using Aperture and it seems to treat the RAW files more straighforwardly.

    There is so much information to learn here.

    Personally, I like to keep settings on the camera the same as much as possible, (hence the daylight WB), because my small brain doesn't do well with things changing around. I get better when I can predict and understand what's going on, and for me, that means simple!

    Anyway, this post was just to reaffirm that I was in no way criticising your valuable input.

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    Re: New A900

    Hi Terry
    I love the guy with the suit and the basket. As for the colours - well, perhaps it's just me, but they simply look 'right' to me. Whatever - I hope you're happy!

    Andrey - Thanks for chipping in, I'm a bit slow on the uptake, and I've just realised who you are - great to have you around here.

    Interesting points, both about uniWB and about the underexposure. I only use AWB in mixed lighting indoors, and noise isn't usually too much of a problem, but this knowledge is a powerful thing!

    Most of my shooting is outside, and the camera is simply left on daylight WB, I don't often look at the histogram, as I can 'feel' the exposure from looking at the LCD, but I realise that I've long since stopped worrying about blown highlights. There are lots of ways of 'knowing' your exposure, consistent settings and experience can sometimes get you there without too much understanding . . . but it's so good to have these things explained!

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by hardloaf View Post
    Interesting! Please do explain the technique


    BTW - I did check that Zone option. I'm pretty positive now that it changes only light meter bias with 0.5EV steps. So -1 takes half stop off from highlights. This means if somebody finds that A900 underexposes too often Zone -1 should take care of that. 1 and 2 will give 0.5 and 1.0 more to highlights. There is no difference if your exposure step is set to 0.3 or 0.5, but 0.3 can be confusing because it doesn't fit exactly in 0.5 zone step, so meter may show 0.6 or 0.3 difference if you check it with different Zone values. Not an issue.



    ISO numbers for Raw shooters are totally bogus in all kinds of cameras anyway. There is no standard here and vendors are getting more and more creative with every new model. Some camera models from different vendors have more than full stop of difference for the very same ISO number.

    I also want to chime about UniWB a little. It definitely has it's disadvantages and this is entirely camera vendors fault that they still cannot implement proper histogram and clipping warnings for Raw after all those years. Yes, it's green and ugly. My daughter thinks that daddy is joking when sees her green portrait on LCD and laughs, my wife gives me those cuckoo looks and I have difficulties with understanding if shot is sharp enough. However it works and there is no other options unfortunately to get real control over exposure. Last example - I was shooting with flash in a room with warm colored walls and floor. Camera was set to AWB and did balance ok, so pictures on LCD looked decent except one problem - it was constantly showing clipping warnings in some unexpected areas. So I started dialing it down more and more till they stopped blinking, but now picture was definitely underexposed. Here it actually occurred to me that I have AWB. So I switch to UniWB, restore initial settings and guess what - no damn blinking. So there was no overexposure in first place, that's just AWB while compensating flash and colored reflected light clipped some channels and showed the warning even though in Raw data there was no clipping.

    I'll let everyone to make their own conclusions
    Ha, I was just teasing about the iphone technique, Andrey. I'm not particularly fast at it, and I apologize to everyone for the typos that result from using that phone!

    As far as ZONE, thanks for clearing that up. The .3 step thing was misleading me a bit. I think I'll keep mine at -1 ZONE setting.

    Oh, Jono, I didn't feel criticized by you at all. No biggie The pleasant nature of this forum is my favorite thing about it. I can't remember for sure, but I think I started using daylight WB consistently after reading one of your threads in the past. You're the man!

    Terry, that camera sure does rendering things nicely, huh? That, combined with your eye, is gonna be one lethal combo.

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    Workshop Member ptomsu's Avatar
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    Re: New A900

    Terry,

    very appealing shots! I start liking this camera and the 135 from what I see - which is bad because I should spend my money in a MF system

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post
    Just to be contrary. Although I completely subscribe to most of Douglas theories, I've found that setting a white balance (daylight in my case) and then sticking to it rigidly means that you really get to understand the colour balance of the camera, added to which you aren't trying to standardise the colour in natural environments when you're really trying to capture the nature of the light rather than a mid grey.
    Of course, if you're taking shots indoors of paintings it's a different matter, but outdoors I think it's a good principle.
    It also means that if you do want to change it in post processing you can easily make a batch change to all your images . . . but I find it does a grand job anyway.

    It's a bit like deciding to settle for a particular film stock and then sticking to it, it becomes part of you, rather then dithering about from one setting to another.
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardkaraa View Post
    Exactly the same here. I shoot 99% daylight, and mostly at ISO 100. I'm sure Douglas has a point, but I like to keep my life simple, and trust the camera manufacturer with the settings. I am getting excellent results with my A900 and IDC so I don't feel any need to change what I'm doing. Like Jono, I consider WB and the different creative styles as different kinds of film. I think the A900 produces excellent color without any external help.
    With the caveat that I'm a relative newcomer to using UniWB, I'd also like to chime in on the UniWB issue since Jono's and Edward's comments suggest that they are perceiving the issue in terms of color and white balance whereas UniWB is primarily about exposure and dynamic range (although these factors can obviously be impacted by one's choice of white balance).

    As I understand it, the main problem is that -- even if you shoot RAW -- the luminance and RGB histograms displayed on the LCD screen are based not on the actual RAW data but rather on the in-camera JPEG which has been created by applying your white balance, saturation, sharpness, contrast, white balance, etc settings to the RAW data. Moreover, because a Bayer array has two green sensels for each red and blue sensel, a gain factor (whose value depends partly on the selected white balance) is applied to both the red and blue channels to "equalize" the channels. This means that the histograms will be inaccurate for any images that contain significant areas of bright red or blue because those values will have been "amped up" in the JPEG to the point where it appears they are being clipped whereas, in reality, they could get more exposure without any danger of blown highlights.

    Since digital sensors capture linear data, half of the 4096 levels in a 12-bit capture are devoted to the brightest stop. Underexposing -- which is what the in-camera histograms frequently encourage us to do -- leads to throwing away a lot of the information that the sensor is actually capable of recording. This post to a UniWB thread at DPreview contains a lucid explanation as to why you might want to use UniWB:
    ...uniWB gives you a histogram that more accurately portrays the end points of the RAW data, allowing you to more accurately see when your image could take more exposure or when you've blown highlights. So, if you aren't having exposure issues today, why would you want to consider using uniWB? Besides being able to conclusively see if any color channel is really blown or not, what uniWB really allows you to do is to achieve the maximum exposure possible by increasing exposure until the histogram is maximally to the right without blowing any highlights. So, why would you want to do that. The answer is that this "expose-to-the-right" (ETTR for short) technique allows you to get the maximum dynamic range out of your sensor and your image and the lowest noise in the shadows. Anytime you don't use the full highlight range of the sensor, you are not taking advantage of the full range of the sensor and you then can't record as much dynamic range as if you had used the full range. So if you have a sunny shot with bright highlights and dark shadows, uniWB allows you to set the exposure for the most dynamic range possible without risk of blowing highlights. An inaccurate JPEG-derived histogram does not give you as accurate information and thus you might either not expose as much as you could or you might accidentally overexpose and blow some highlights.
    However if you're shooting landscapes in relatively even light, where large areas of the image are already bright green and there aren't extremes of contrast, then UniWB is not as useful because the JPEG green channel histogram is providing you with all the information you need to make an accurate exposure.

    To set up UniWB on a Nikon camera, the gain of each color channel is set to a factor of 1 by creating a custom white balance based on a specially created image, all of the in-camera settings that are used to produce the in-camera JPEG are zeroed out, and a linear Tone Compensation curve is selected. Douglas's settings for the A900 would appear to emulate this procedure.
    Last edited by Jonathon Delacour; 23rd May 2009 at 13:52.

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathon Delacour View Post
    With the caveat that I'm a relative newcomer to using UniWB, I'd also like to chime in on the UniWB issue since Jono's and Edward's comments suggest that they are perceiving the issue in terms of color and white balance whereas UniWB is primarily about exposure and dynamic range (although these factors can obviously be impacted by one's choice of white balance).
    Thank you Jonathon - what an excellent clarification - and so nicely written and put together
    Thank You

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    Re: New A900

    Aye, Jonathon, you are much better at explaining this stuff than I am. Thanks. In any event, I still get all of the advantages that Jono mentions with his WB method, even when using uniWB, because I have the A900's daylight WB value saved as a preset in my RAW converters, so one quick batch click on import changes my green images into A900 daylight balanced images. The only disadvantage is that the image is green on the camera lcd, but I'm getting used to that.

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    Spot Metering using AEL

    OK, now I'm trying to learn some stuff on the camera.

    Right now I have the camera on matrix metering and the single point focus.

    Now let's assume I want to spot meter and then focus. I understand that I pick the spot that I want to get a reading/lock exposure for. I press and hold the AEL button. Then I go and recompose and half press the shutter for focus.

    Once I press the AEL button and then move the camera to recompose and focus, I do see the mark on the exposure compensation scale (in the viewfinder) move around. What I don't understand is how you would then actually change the exposure comp with your finger already holding AEL button. Or, is the camera doing something (implementing and EV change) on its own?

  22. #72
    Senior Member Eoin's Avatar
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    Re: New A900

    Hi Terry, you know what they say "Read the Manual"

    Press the menu button, go to the cog wheel menu page 2, highlight AEL button, select spot metering AEL TOGGLE and your good to go.You just press the button once to go to spot metering and hold the value measured. No need to hold the button. Then you can press the exp comp button on the top behind the shutter release and dial in the comp required.

    When you want to go back to normal metering just press AEL button again and the star will disappear in the VF.......... don't forget to cancel the exp comp you had dialed in
    A7II, FE 35, 55 C/Y 18, 28, 85, 100, 28-85

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    Re: New A900

    Thanks Eoin,

    I did have the manual but was a little between the menu choices and the the manual (pages 71-72 in US) saying you needed to hold the AEL button.

    Terry

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    Senior Member Eoin's Avatar
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    Re: New A900

    Sorry I forgot, in the method you're currently using, once you press the AEL button and hold it you are taking a spot reading (assuming you have it set to Spot metering AEL Hold. as you keep you finger on the button and recompose and focus the indicator moving around is showing you the current value of the spot metering point relative to your held metering value.

    You can also set the exposure compensation to be always available on the front or rear dial rather than have to press the exp comp button. This can be set in the cog wheel menu page 2 "Dial Exp Comp fornt or rear wheel.

    I'd also suggest if your going to use this setting you also set Control dial lock to on. What that does is lock the 2 control dials, until you actually meter or half press the shutter. I found without this setting on the camera rubbed against my side adjusting the exp comp I had set.

    Hope that helps..
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    Senior Member Braeside's Avatar
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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post
    I've found all your posts extremely valuable, and these days I'm mostly shooting at 320 ISO - the other settings are different as I'm using Aperture and it seems to treat the RAW files more straighforwardly.

    There is so much information to learn here.
    .
    Jono, as you know I'm using Aperture here as well, and recently, as a result of Douglas's posts on ETTR and making adjustments to Lightroom to compensate, I revisited some of my RAW photos in Aperture to see what the RAW histograms looked like when I had shot trusting the camera matrix metering.

    They didn't look underexposed on Aperture's histogram, but then I remembered about the RAW fine tuning and Boost that is used by default in Aperture, this is set to 1.0 and has the effect of turning up the exposure quite a bit, fooling me into thinking that the capture was 'properly' exposed.

    Even so, in Aperture I have found that I now prefer turning 'boost' down to about 0.5 and manually playing with exposure and contrast in Aperture to get the results I want. I have made a new RAW fine tuning preset for importing my files now with boost reduced.

    Interested if you have noticed the same kind of thing?

    Terry, sorry to have hijacked this - I'm impressed with your photos on the first outing, the market looks like a great place to photograph.
    David Anderson

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    Re: New A900

    I'm using aperture as well (no surprise there!) and I'm finding ISO 320, matrix mode metering and AWB works very well.

    I'm going to spend the day playing with Douglas's settings and see what the results look like. Who knows, I might even go as far as full manual mode, UniWB and use the histogram for one in my life
    A7II, FE 35, 55 C/Y 18, 28, 85, 100, 28-85

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    Re: New A900

    Thanks again Eoin!

    Braeside - Hijack away all this info is a great referenence for someone starting out with this camera. The farmers market at the ferry building in SF is fantastic and not just for photos. There are sooooo many farms close to SF we have a great supply/variety of local veggies, meats, cheeses, nuts....

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    Re: New A900

    I agree with Jono. The colors (on my calibrated monitor) just look 'right'. I paid special notice to reds/burgundies and greens. BTW--I've always envied the markets in Calif.--all those wonderful veggies and cheeses.

    Looks like you're having good fun with the camera and have more or less made up your mind as to which one you're going to take to Iceland *smile*.

    Diane

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by Diane B View Post
    I agree with Jono. The colors (on my calibrated monitor) just look 'right'. I paid special notice to reds/burgundies and greens. BTW--I've always envied the markets in Calif.--all those wonderful veggies and cheeses.

    Looks like you're having good fun with the camera and have more or less made up your mind as to which one you're going to take to Iceland *smile*.

    Diane
    Hi Diane,
    I agree, that is why I posted so many yesterday (that had some screwy focus but did highlight the colors). When the files opened up in LR I didn't feel like I needed to touch them at all. The camera fits my hand pretty well. I still have work to do on the buttons to push (as you can see from my last couple of posts ) but it is simpler than my Nikon in operation. Today I am going to work with the 24-70. We have hit a foggy patch in SF and it never cleared by the coast or the city yesterday. I may need to head inland....

    The Ferry Market in SF is great. SF is a good town for dining out and cooking in. I try and go every Saturday that I am in town.

    Back to photography...I will post a couple from the afternoon. It is amazing to put these at 100% on the monitor. I will post a couple of crops as well. I am sure the 1DsMKIII and the D3x make gorgeous files at 100% just catches you by surprise moving from 12 to 24 mp. I can easily send (actually load on line) you or others a RAW file(s) to play with. Jono also has a link.

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    Re: New A900

    Yesterday afternoon....very dull not ugly and low enough to have fun with the fog...more of the same here today.

    Thig guy has some problem in that his skin is a very grey color
    Attachment 16702

    This was already a bit cropped
    Attachment 16703

    100%
    Attachment 16705

    I sort of interupted lunch
    Attachment 16704

    100%
    Attachment 16706

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by TEBnewyork View Post
    Thig guy has some problem in that his skin is a very grey color
    Well...

    You just wait until you reach 89 years....



    Fantastic thread Terry, thanks to you for sharing your experiences and the help offered by others, outstanding!

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    Re: New A900

    It looks like you're already getting the hang of the A900, Terry.

    Call me crazy, but I sometimes get the feeling that one can see the difference with these 24MP files, even when posted at web size. I've seen mention of this before, but I don't have a solid footing on whether that's possible, or it's just my eyes tricking me....or just different methods of resizing. The detail in the flowers near the cows on the un-cropped pics really looks intense. What do ya'll think?

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    Re: New A900

    No doubt about it Doug I can see it with MF files all day long on the web. Should be the same for the big 35mm mpx cams today. More detail and no getting around it
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by douglasf13 View Post
    It looks like you're already getting the hang of the A900, Terry.

    Call me crazy, but I sometimes get the feeling that one can see the difference with these 24MP files, even when posted at web size. I've seen mention of this before, but I don't have a solid footing on whether that's possible, or it's just my eyes tricking me....or just different methods of resizing. The detail in the flowers near the cows on the un-cropped pics really looks intense. What do ya'll think?
    I know what you are saying and at the non web size I will say I was not prepared for opening up these files. It is way better and a much bigger difference from my other cameras than I thought it would be.

    For my web images, it is not a different reduction methodology (unless LR treats larger files differently). I reduce the size of the files exactly the same way from all of my cameras. I export from LR and simply put a max of 900 pixels on either dimension. For posting at getdpi, I do not click the box to sharpen the output for the screen because the forum software seems to do some sharpening.

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    Re: New A900

    Would you get out and go shoot some images and try the 24-70. LOL
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by Guy Mancuso View Post
    No doubt about it Doug I can see it with MF files all day long on the web. Should be the same for the big 35mm mpx cams today. More detail and no getting around it
    Yeah, some of the web sized shots that I've seen with that new 60MP Phase back seem to have incredible detail. Very cool.

    I think there is a perception that 24MP isn't necessary for web size shots, or even 8x10 prints, but there is a clarity there that I really like.

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    Re: New A900

    Exactly and it is every size, it's when you hit a certain size like 40 x60 prints it becomes more apparent but it is in there all the way through the sizes.
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by Guy Mancuso View Post
    Would you get out and go shoot some images and try the 24-70. LOL
    I'm leaving now.

    Was messing around getting the hand strap on the camera. I was wondering why they charge so much for it. Good reason. It is reasonably well thought out as they did design it so you could still use an RRS or similar plate (with a metal mount). However, I still want to to attach it to a plate like the M8 where you take off the piece that attaches to the tripod mount and strap it right on to the RRS plate.

    BTW there is also a connection to attach a should/neck strap to the hand strap which I sometimes do.

    Toodles

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    Re: New A900

    Terry, (when you return, don't stall your outing for this) ,

    I was wondering if the Sony strap allows the complete removal of their plate? In other words, might it be a better choice than the current Canon strap (on my Canon gear) for use with RRS plates if one does wish to add a neck/shoulder strap at times? I don't want to stack plates (the Sony + the RRS) so just looking for clarification.

    I'm enjoying your journey into Sonyland.

    Thanks.

    Dale

    Quote Originally Posted by TEBnewyork View Post
    I'm leaving now.

    Was messing around getting the hand strap on the camera. I was wondering why they charge so much for it. Good reason. It is reasonably well thought out as they did design it so you could still use an RRS or similar plate (with a metal mount). However, I still want to to attach it to a plate like the M8 where you take off the piece that attaches to the tripod mount and strap it right on to the RRS plate.

    BTW there is also a connection to attach a should/neck strap to the hand strap which I sometimes do.

    Toodles

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by TEBnewyork View Post
    I know what you are saying and at the non web size I will say I was not prepared for opening up these files. It is way better and a much bigger difference from my other cameras than I thought it would be.
    Exactly - lovely aren't they

    Just this guy you know

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    Re: New A900

    Dale, you can completely remove the strap from the plate. That is how you hook it to Sony vertical grips.

  42. #92
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    Re: New A900

    I use this arca-style QR plate for hand strap on one side and neck strap on another.
    http://www.camdapter.com/product_plus_arca.html

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by douglasf13 View Post
    Dale, you can completely remove the strap from the plate. That is how you hook it to Sony vertical grips.
    Thank you, Douglas. That helps.

    Andrey: thank you. I have used Camdapter plates before as well. Really Right Stuff now has the strap lug on their plates and I prefer the fit, etc. of their plates. But actually, I use the "L" plates mostly anyway. I had considered the Camdapter strap though.

    Thanks gents.

  44. #94
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    Re: New A900

    Dale,
    Quote Originally Posted by Dale Allyn View Post
    Andrey: thank you. I have used Camdapter plates before as well. Really Right Stuff now has the strap lug on their plates and I prefer the fit, etc. of their plates. But actually, I use the "L" plates mostly anyway. I had considered the Camdapter strap though.

    Thanks gents.
    Hm, didn't know that RRS L-plate have a strap lug. Thanks for the info!
    Do you also attach a neck strap to you camera when L-plate is mounted? What I like about Camdapter is that both straps are on separate sides and neck strap just freely hangs when not needed and doesn't get in my way. Best solution for me would be completely (without any hanging parts left) and quickly detachable neck strap though - I'm trying not use them at all because my neck hates any kind of load and gives me headaches, but I need it as a shoulder strap sometimes.

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    Re: New A900

    Quote Originally Posted by hardloaf View Post
    I use this arca-style QR plate for hand strap on one side and neck strap on another.
    http://www.camdapter.com/product_plus_arca.html
    RRS may not have one available yet for the A900 (but I bet it does), but I use an RRS L bracket that has a lug for the Canon E1 hand strap. I use a Camdaptor for my 400D and 10DIR but prefer (for a number of reasons) the RRS plate.

    (Whoops--looks as though I was a bit late in posting this--or in not reading all the posts before posting mine LOL).

    Diane

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    Re: New A900


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    Re: New A900

    Hi Mark,
    Yes, I will order the L - bracket. I just hate keeping it on the camera so I do like a flat plate as well. If you look at the front of the A900 that slope makes for a different angle than the other plates I have lying around.

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    Re: New A900

    The journey continues....
    Yes, I did get myself properly fixed on spot metering. I got confused on hold vs. toggle where hold on my G1 = toggle on A900.

    There is something on my sensor and since it was there all day one would have to assume it might me a bit of oil or something from the camera being new. Anyone have this on the A 900 (my M8 did at the beginning)?

    The weather didn't cooperate again. I went north thinking I might head up towards Napa but once I got a few miles north of the bridge it was clearing out quite nicely so I headed to Point Reyes and the lighthouse. I was overly optimistic on the weather....

    It was a three layer event and the winds were not exactly a gentle breeze....here are a few with the 24-70

    The left side is important don't worry about the right

    Attachment 16733

    No, I didn't bother going down the 300+ steps
    Attachment 16732

    Bleccchhh
    Attachment 16731

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    Re: New A900

    As I was driving away the sun started to peek through the fog so I headed back to the beach but it proved to be a very brief interlude

    Attachment 16735

    So I headed back to the city where it was trying valliantly to clear but it was too late in the day to get it to burn off anymore. That little bright area in the middle of the bay is Alcatraz and it did have sun on it. Further left are Sausalito and Tiburon which were both in the sunshine. This is the 24-70 at 24 and I did get obvious vignetting.

    Attachment 16736

    On my way out of town I passed the cemetery at the Presidio. I figured I would stop on the way back. Unfortunately, I missed the gates closing by 5 minutes. As usual for Memorial Day a flag has been placed at every headstone. These were taken with the 135 through the gate so I couldn't get good angles that didn't include a lot of the street.


    Attachment 16737

    That shot has a bit or weirdness happening on the right hand side. The point of focus is in focus but the almost double image on the right doesn't seem like normal bokeh. Think I nudged the camera on that side?

    Attachment 16744

    A final shot for tonight....

    Attachment 16738
    Last edited by Terry; 24th May 2009 at 19:59.

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    Re: New A900

    Whoops one last bit on the 24-70 at 24mm my corners aren't perfect

    Full shot shot at f8

    Attachment 16745


    Bottom left (i bumped up the exposure to show the example)

    Attachment 16747

    Bottom right

    Attachment 16746

    Bottom center

    Attachment 16748
    Last edited by Terry; 24th May 2009 at 19:34.

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