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Fun With Sony Cameras

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Barry Haines

Active member
Radcliffe Camera, Oxford - 21mm Distagon
Had to get in close to the fence to avoid the daytime tourists in front of me, so then forced to tilt the camera upwards post correcting the verticals later in PS.
Added some HDR processing and BLENCOMO to add some drama.




 

Barry Haines

Active member
Thank you Bugleone...I think I explained it once before somewhere buried in this long thread...but I can no longer find it :-(

BLENCOMO (BLENding COlour with MOno) treatment...
In a nutshell make a colour image as best you can in PS...Then from that image make a separate punchy monochrome image as best you can (Burning and Dodging and even Toning if desired).
Apply the mono image over the top of the colour image (aligned) on a separate layer...Now fade the top layer back to allow some of the colour image below to show through...Flatten layers off.
You now have a muted colour image that you now need to replenish the colours back...Now add saturation or vibrance or both to suit your own personal taste...hope that helps explain the process.
I find DXO/Nik Silver Efex Pro 2 a great tool for making mono images - https://nikcollection.dxo.com/silver-efex-pro/

_________________________

Making selfies on the Bridges of Bourton-in-the-Water in the Cotswolds...Sony GM 135mm @ f/1.8





 

Barry Haines

Active member
Searching around Lacock Abbey looking for suitable subject matter to give an early photographic reproduction image look.
Albeit modern day digitally processed by me ;) Voigtlander Nokton 50mm @ f/1.2

"Firefoot the Rocking Horse" so I understand was first photographed as a salt print negative by Henry Fox Talbot way back in 1842 and is one of the earliest photographic printed images in history.
I asked the attendant if I could get closer to the Rocking Horse and cross the barrier, so as to fill the frame better with a fast standard lens used wide open..to which he very kindly obliged :)

The Lacock Abbey Kitchen was also suitable for using this photographic treatment but it was filled with visitors at the time...It was hard to isolate anything in particular without a distracting background.
I tucked myself into the corner of the room and snapped off this old door and copper pots and pans.










 

Thorkil

Well-known member
Thank you Bugleone...I think I explained it once before somewhere buried in this long thread...but I can no longer find it :-(

BLENCOMO (BLENding COlour with MOno) treatment...
In a nutshell make a colour image as best you can in PS...Then from that image make a separate punchy monochrome image as best you can (Burning and Dodging and even Toning if desired).
Apply the mono image over the top of the colour image (aligned) on a separate layer...Now fade the top layer back to allow some of the colour image below to show through...Flatten layers off.
You now have a muted colour image that you now need to replenish the colours back...Now add saturation or vibrance or both to suit your own personal taste...hope that helps explain the process.
I find DXO/Nik Silver Efex Pro 2 a great tool for making mono images - https://nikcollection.dxo.com/silver-efex-pro/
Hi Barry and Bugleone
I did copy your text Barry at 22. August 2015 - in case I would use it later on - but never did - I'm a C1-guy.
But here the copy comes unedited:

OLD UNEDITED TEXT FROM BARRY HAINES comes here:

I will put both the tone mapping process that I still currently use here and also the BLENCOMO (BLENded COlour with MOnochrome) treatment, although my workflow has changed since writing this earlier.



Tone mapping (page 100).... Fun with the Sony A7 Series Cameras( all of them)

I am still currently playing around with Photomatix, it’s not exactly the most natural looking of all the tone mapping programs out there!
I figured if I could tame the OTT aggressive effects with this program (worse case scenario) I could then apply the same techniques with other more natural looking tone mapping programs.
I generally make no more than 3 tone mapped images now, each one concentrating for either the highlight areas like skies, another for the mid tones and a darker version for the shadows.
I will then compile these 3 images as layers on top of the natural original worked up image...Fading the opacities to taste, then erase/dodge/burn different parts of those layers to accentuate different parts of the image...Once happy I will then merge the 3 layers together with the original.
It can be a little time consuming but I quite like playing around with this sort of thing, it’s a bit like assembling a jigsaw but in 3D!




My old workflow back then incl. BLENCOMO treatment (page 62)... Fun with the Sony A7 Series Cameras( all of them)

GetDPI is a sharing community so here is my typical workflow as best as I can remember for you or anybody who is interested (apologies to those who are not).

RAW>DNG>CS (ACR..Only basic corrections like exposure, vignetting etc...) open.

When in CS straighten up the images horizon and then correct perspective and crop...Save as a Tiff.

Open the Tiff into LR and then Export to Mogrify 2 LR/Mogrify 2 - Add Watermarks, Border and Text Annotions to Images Exported by Adobe Lightroom 2 the image (In other words add a preset frame with title, author and lens info etc.)

Re-open back into CS (for Labcolor processing) and run this free downsizing/sharpening Web Sharpener CS4+ script Web Sharpener - Better Sharpening for the WebAndreas Resch ? Naturfotografie
Andreas Resch - Websharpener script is just wonderful IMO, you can control the final output size (I use 1600x1600px maximum output for Flickr) and the actual amount of sharpening on layers together with contrast and saturation...I have pretty well tried most downsizing sharpeners out there, this is my favourite for sure but it can only be done in CS4 (or above) because it steps down in increments using the Lab color method.

Once happy with the image flatten off the layers off and convert the Lab colour to SRGB and save as a new Tiff.

Zoom into the corner where the image touches the frame and make a selection around the image only (This means all changes from now on in only have a effect upon the image itself and not the frame)...Make a thin black, grey or white (penline 1 px wide your choice) using Edit>Stroke.

BLENCOMO (BLENding COlour with MOno) treatment.
Keeping the same selection (marching ants) and now open filters (Nik software Silver Efex Pro 2)...I use a slight variant Preset of my own which is very similar to the std. Preset *015 included - but with less noise.> OK. (It’s like getting an instant black and white TONEMAPPED image which adds some drama to an image...vary the SOFT CONTRAST slider to taste or even add a tone like, sepia, selenium etc... should you so wish).

Go to the Layers and fade the opacity to around 50% (It much depends on the colour within the image itself) and then flatten off the layers, you should now have a pastel coloured image which needs bringing back to colour life by adjusting the (Image>Adjustments>Vibrance) Vary the vibrance and saturation to taste.

Still with the selection on use the graduated filter to Colour Burn down the Sky (Edit>FADE GRADIENT) and the Ground up (Edit>FADE GRADIENT) to form a base for the image.

Correct the White balance (I use Pictocolour PictoColor Software: PictoColor Software: Color Correction Software and Photoshop Plugins ).

Final step...Auto Contrast (Edit>FADE CONTAST) whilst watching the Histogram doesn’t burn out the Highlights...Add some curves, dodge tool (highlight) along pier strip and clone out birds and insects flying in the sky, deselect selection and save as a jpg....Takes me about 30-40 minutes most images.

Hope that gives you some insight to my typical workflow....Cheers Barry

EDIT...I will just add that these were copied from their respective earlier pages, when I was still finding my way with the process.
Later experimentation showed me that the IQ increased dramatically by changing the sequence of the workflow.
Just work the full sized image 24mp/36mp/42mp or whatever size you happen to be using to it’s fruition including the BLENCOMO treatment, then finish off with framing (Mogrify - LR) and then the Web Sharpener downsizing script in CS4 upwards.

END of Barrys text.

hope it can help you both - and others perhaps...
best thorkil
 

Barry Haines

Active member
Hi Barry and Bugleone
I did copy your text Barry at 22. August 2015 - in case I would use it later on - but never did - I'm a C1-guy.
But here the copy comes unedited:

OLD UNEDITED TEXT FROM BARRY HAINES comes here:

hope it can help you both - and others perhaps...
best thorkil
Thorkil, thank you for finding that ancient old post (Did I really write all that back then...oh my, how embarrassing!)...CS4/2015 that's going back a way, no wonder I couldn't find it (or perhaps I didn't want to! LOL )
Some of that is still true to day...I would go with the simplified version (shown below)...I still use today "Andreas Resch - Websharpener script" to resize my images for the web...recommended :thumbs: https://andreasresch.at/websharpener_en

BLENCOMO (BLENding COlour with MOno) treatment...
In a nutshell make a colour image as best you can in PS...Then from that image make a separate punchy monochrome image as best you can (Burning and Dodging and even Toning if desired).
Apply the mono image over the top of the colour image (aligned) on a separate layer...Now fade the top layer back to allow some of the colour image below to show through...Flatten layers off.
You now have a muted colour image that you now need to replenish the colours back...Now add saturation or vibrance or both to suit your own personal taste...hope that helps explain the process.
I find DXO/Nik Silver Efex Pro 2 a great tool for making mono images - https://nikcollection.dxo.com/silver-efex-pro/
_________________

Made of (scribbled on) post-it notes, this sculpture is turning heads just outside the Sheldonian Theatre in Oxford - GM 135MM @ f/1.8 + CV50mm @ f/1.2
"Tomorrows Oxford Heads" - Public Sculpture - https://twitter.com/hashtag/TomorrowsOxfordHeads?src=hash









 
Last edited:

pegelli

Well-known member
Something a little less maintained (certainly vs. what Barry is showing, but even vs. Bart's latest subjects)

At the request of Jürgen (jotloob) now in colour:

Former gas station in Doel (Belgium)


NEX6 + Panagor 28/2 (OM mount)
 

Barry Haines

Active member
Something a little less maintained (certainly vs. what Barry is showing, but even vs. Bart's latest subjects)

At the request of Jürgen (jotloob) now in colour:

Former gas station in Doel (Belgium)
Pieter, a good suggestion of Jürgen - The image works both well in colour and monochrome...nice one.

_____________________

Commonly known as - The Bridge of Sighs (Oxford) but it's real name is the Hertford Bridge...(Palladium Toned) CV50mm Nokton @ f/5.6
Personally I think it looks like a mishmash of the Rialto Bridge and Bridge of Sighs (Venice).

There is a false legend saying that many decades ago, a survey of the health of students was taken, and as Hertford College's students were the heaviest, the college closed off the bridge to force them to take the stairs, giving them extra exercise. However, if the bridge is not used, the students actually climb fewer stairs than if they do use the bridge.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridge_of_Sighs_(Oxford)





 
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