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Personal thoughts on Film vs Digital

jdphoto

Well-known member
... Because if it's all just "What I Like" without the overweening pretentiousness and condescension of 'why what I like is superior to what I don't like', your thoughts on photography and your photographs avoid being an affront to sensible, capable photographers and artists who think differently from you. Godfrey


These are called opinions...
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
... Because if it's all just "What I Like" without the overweening pretentiousness and condescension of 'why what I like is superior to what I don't like', your thoughts on photography and your photographs avoid being an affront to sensible, capable photographers and artists who think differently from you.

Godfrey


These are called opinions...
You can state opinions in ways that are not pretentious bullshit and a put down of everyone else's opinions, you know. Like: "I've used digital capture and I've used film, both quite a lot, and I have to say that the workflow and look that I get from film is more satisfying than what I get from digital capture." You might even add the question, "What is your opinion?", to open the door for discussion of your and others' opinions. That might prove to be an interesting thread with useful information in it.

Instead, you chose to start a thread with a put-down of everyone else's opinions, a remake of the ten bazillion other "film vs digital" crap debates, and, in doing so, tried to dodge the bullet with your simpering "Yeah, I know the title is enough to fan flames regarding this much talked about comparison. ..." as your opening statement.

Sorry, you get no protection for such horsepucky from me. It's just pretentious condescension. You like film ... great! I do too. So what? Vapid generic critique of others' works without showing a single image of your own work to articulate the reasons for your opinion does not constitute credible and legitimate support of your opinion. And then you go on to imply, in not so many words, "... well, it's my opinion so I can say anything I want to."

My opinion is that your opinion is utter freekin' nonsense and hot air. It's not even cleverly or amusingly stated. Okay?

G
 
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jdphoto

Well-known member
You can state opinions in ways that are not pretentious bullshit and a put down of everyone else's opinions, you know. Like: "I've used digital capture and I've used film, both quite a lot, and I have to say that the workflow and look that I get from film is more satisfying than what I get from film." You might even add the question, "What is your opinion?", to open the door for discussion of your and others' opinions. That might prove to be an interesting thread with useful information in it.

Instead, you chose to start a thread with a put-down of everyone else's opinions, a remake of the ten bazillion other "film vs digital" crap debates, and, in doing so, tried to dodge the bullet with your simpering "Yeah, I know the title is enough to fan flames regarding this much talked about comparison. ..." as your opening statement.

Sorry, you get no protection for such horsepucky from me. It's just pretentious condescension. You like film ... great! I do too. So what? Vapid generic critique of others' works without showing a single image of your own work to articulate the reasons for your opinion does not constitute credible and legitimate support of your opinion. And then you go on to imply, in not so many words, "... well, it's my opinion so I can say anything I want to."

My opinion is that your opinion is utter freekin' nonsense and hot air. It's not even cleverly or amusingly stated. Okay?

G
I don't know what kind of photographer you are, but I get a sense of the kind of person you are. You are passionate! I wish you peace of mind, happiness and joy my friend. Thank you for your input.
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
I don't know what kind of photographer you are, but I get a sense of the kind of person you are. You are passionate! I wish you peace of mind, happiness and joy my friend. Thank you for your input.
Thank you very much for the compliment, I appreciate it. And wish you the same in return.

Please keep in mind that I have no axe to grind against you or anyone else personally, and please don't take my comments as a personal attack. I'd just rather not see this old meme run the same old noisome course of silly, divisive debate. It's worth going out on a limb to make that point clear than see bad feelings spread.

There's lots to be said about the differences in technique and workflow, in the rendering of captures into finished photographs, and in how the look and feel of one differs from the other between the two capture media that is objective and a matter that can increase folks' understanding and skills in either/both. Saying one is "better" than the other without good context as to what that means specifically, without credible evidence, is an old dogmatic meme that tends to divide photographers and deconstruct community rather than bring community and photographers together in a useful way that has good results for all. We are all reluctant to move out of our comfort zone and into the unknowns of new things ... but digital photography is no longer "new things" and we should be getting beyond that now.

Good light to you, enjoy doing your photography however satisfies you best. Which reminds me: I need to order some of the new Polaroid Originals film packs to test... :)

G


Polaroid SLR670a by MiNT
Impossible Project B&W 600 (outdated)
 
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Jorgen Udvang

Subscriber Member
So if someone stages the scene of Rembrandt's Night Watch today, take a digital photo of it and makes a print the same size as the original painting (437 x 363 cm), it would have the same value as the printing then? Or more, since it would without doubt be closer to reality and contain more detail than Rembrandt's work.
Thank you to those who became offended by this. Mission accomplished. I'll come back to this later, but I'm a bit busy right now.
 

Jorgen Udvang

Subscriber Member
“Everybody has a recording studio these days. At A&M Records, we had these huge, monster studios — A, B and C — and if you went into Studio A, you could put a symphony orchestra in there.”

Chuckling at the wonder of it all, he says, “The acoustics were great coming out of all those studios, but now you can do all of that on a laptop.

“I’m not sure if that’s all for the good. You can definitely lose something if you’re not careful. You can overthink it, over-sanitize it, make sure it’s all perfect and it’s in tune and everything is fitting right in order.”

Herb Alpert, LA Times, 25 September 2017


Yes, I think it's relevant.
 

jdphoto

Well-known member
Thank you very much for the compliment, I appreciate it. And wish you the same in return.

Please keep in mind that I have no axe to grind against you or anyone else personally, and please don't take my comments as a personal attack. I'd just rather not see this old meme run the same old noisome course of silly, divisive debate. It's worth going out on a limb to make that point clear than see bad feelings spread.

There's lots to be said about the differences in technique and workflow, in the rendering of captures into finished photographs, and in how the look and feel of one differs from the other between the two capture media that is objective and a matter that can increase folks' understanding and skills in either/both. Saying one is "better" than the other without good context as to what that means specifically, without credible evidence, is an old dogmatic meme that tends to divide photographers and deconstruct community rather than bring community and photographers together in a useful way that has good results for all. We are all reluctant to move out of our comfort zone and into the unknowns of new things ... but digital photography is no longer "new things" and we should be getting beyond that now.

Good light to you, enjoy doing your photography however satisfies you best. Which reminds me: I need to order some of the new Polaroid Originals film packs to test... :)

G


Polaroid SLR670a by MiNT
Impossible Project B&W 600 (outdated)
It's not a compliment, but more of an acknowledgment to your personal beliefs which are rightfully valid.
The very definition of opinion is not necessarily based on facts or knowledge. It is however, very subjective and open to interpretation. Ad hominem attacks have no place in an open forum where contradictions seem to run rampant. All your ideas about digital vs film are well founded without the bullying tactics needed to make your point.
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
It's not a compliment, but more of an acknowledgment to your personal beliefs which are rightfully valid.
The very definition of opinion is not necessarily based on facts or knowledge. It is however, very subjective and open to interpretation. Ad hominem attacks have no place in an open forum where contradictions seem to run rampant. All your ideas about digital vs film are well founded without the bullying tactics needed to make your point.
You don’t know how to let go and accept a thank you, do you? Bullying tactics?
Take a pill. I will now ignore you.

G
 

stephengilbert

Active member
Too many people here seem unable to let go. It might be good sometimes to try ignoring something rather than having the last word.

"Bullying" might not be exactly right, but there have sure been several offensive posts here.
 

jdphoto

Well-known member
Re: Personal thoughts on Film and Digital

Someone mentioned using a digital camera to shoot film negatives, so I thought I would give it a try. Although, I've scanned negs on a flatbed, film flatness is key when doing so. I've tried using a BetterScanning glass and holder, but using tape on negs can be tricky when having to stretch the neg for flatness. So I decided to use my Omega negative holders for single images and a lightbox. The negs are nice and flat and easy to hold too. I used my Gitzo tripod inverted and square the film plane to the lightbox. I used a Fuji XF 60mm macro with really good results, but I think the upcoming 80mm 2.8 macro would be a better focal length and its 1:1 magnification. No, i'm not at all against using digital for this purpose. I've never advocated a film only approach anyway, but until I can gain proficiency in my darkroom skills this is a cool way to shoot film and manipulate them digitally. The image below was taken with a Rolleiflex 3.5F and digitally transferred with a Fuji XT2. I'd appreciate any tips or suggestions for film to digital that could result in good resolution and dynamic range. Perhaps I should change the thread title to "Personal thoughts on Film and Digital". Just a thought...
 

Jorgen Udvang

Subscriber Member
If you shoot film and want to maintain the visual characteristics of film during the conversion to digital, you need a scanning process that maintains those characteristics. One of the consequences of that is that your scan resolution should be higher than the grain resolution of the film. This is particularly important with films where the grain structure is a part of the visual expression. Tri-X and HP5 are obvious examples of that, and I believe it's mostly more important with b&w than with colour, but even with a film like Portra 400, I think the grain structure is an important part of the film's colour and contrast rendering.

This also means that any camera with an AA filter is automatically disqualified. There's no AA filter in film photography.

It's interesting to see that even some relatively low resolution (like 5-6 MP) but high quality scans, convey film characteristics that bad quality, higher resolution scans fail to render. Still, if you want to use a camera for "scanning", the larger the negative, the more resolution your camera needs. This is a situation you avoid with a scanner, since the resolution of a scanner is measured in pixels or dots per inch, while the resolution of a cameras is measured as a finite number of pixels for each sensor.

In addition, there are factors like D max, DR and general colour rendering that play important roles. Although digital cameras have become pretty good, they are still digital with a limited number of nuances, while quality film, at least in theory and often in practice, offers an unlimited number of nuances when it comes to colour, contrast, grain shape etc.

I've been studying hundreds of scanned photos lately, trying to figure out what goes on from a visual point of view during scanning of film. Although I'm far from reaching a conclusion, and maybe I never will, it's pretty clear that most scans are rather bad. This is probably also the most important reason why most digital photos, at least from a technical point of view, look better than most scanned photos regardless of resolution. This doesn't take away from the joy of doing film photography, but it reduces the potential of film photos considerably. When I look at high quality scans done of my own film photos recently and compare them to digital photos from the time I mostly left film to do digital only, I'm almost surprised that I did the transition at all. I can only blame lack of access to high quality scanning and lack of understanding of the scanning process back then.

This of course doesn't mean that film photography will ever become mainstream again, but I do think that it will become increasingly relevant as an alternative art form, and that easier access to high quality scanning and better understanding of the scanning process will show film as a unique medium with it's own characteristics rather than trying to compete with the increasingly clean, hyper-resolution images from digital cameras.

Edit: One factor that totally destroys scanned photos when presented online is jpeg compression. Scanned files tend to be very large as high quality jpegs due to the grain, and the lower quality jpegs often required to get a file size acceptable for online presentation, completely destroys the grain structure. However, instead of an image that offers the smoothness of a digital photo, we tend to get an image with some strange, ugly jpeg artifacts. Unless we get a compression algorithm specially designed to maintain the visual impression of grain structure, and I don't really see that coming, this is a problem that will persist and that film photographers will have to live with. This will also make most discussions around this theme meaningless, since the uninformed will usually pick (ugly) samples of film photos randomly from the internet to prove their points. This does luckily not apply to the members of this great forum.
 
V

Vivek

Guest
I have (use) Leica MM, Sony NEX-5NM (monochrome, debayered) without AA filters along with a Sony A7, A7r (no AA) and Sony Rx1R II (variable AA , zero to full).

Yes, it is possible to have cameras without AA filters.
 

Jorgen Udvang

Subscriber Member
I have (use) Leica MM, Sony NEX-5NM (monochrome, debayered) without AA filters along with a Sony A7, A7r (no AA) and Sony Rx1R II (variable AA , zero to full).

Yes, it is possible to have cameras without AA filters.
Absolutely, neither the D810 nor the D850 have AA filters either, and it's becoming increasingly common. My guess is that 35mm film, except for the highest resolution ones, will look good if "scanned" with a camera with a resolution beyond 24 or 36MP. However, I do think that to maintain the native characteristics of each film type, it will have to be scanned at a resolution that is higher than what we traditionally think of as the limit of the film compared to a digital image. While a digital image consists of a fixed number of pixels of identical size, film consists of an unknown number of grains of various sizes, grains that are not arranged in any particular pattern.

The latter is also one of the reasons why film is much more flexible than digital images when it comes to enlargements. Film can be stretched very far and still maintain it's qualities, while digital images tend to "fall apart" if stretched too far. I have participated in the scanning and printing of a 35mm image (Provia 100 if I remember correctly) to 120 cm width. It's a landscape photo and it looks great on the wall of the Norwegian Embassy in Bangkok.
 

Jorgen Udvang

Subscriber Member
Another comment regarding scanning:
While there's no doubt that it's easiest to get the best results when using high-end scanners like the Hasselblads and other expensive gear, there are some photographers around who get surprisingly good results with flatbed scanners as well. I downloaded some Portra 800 scans earlier today, taken with a Mamiya 645 and the 150mm f/3.5 lens, scanned with a Canon 9000 at full resolution. While I wouldn't consider printing the images at the 10,000 or so pixels longest side that they were scanned at, downsampling to 7,500 pixels did wonders, and at 6,000 x 4,500 they really started looking good enough even for pixel peeping, or would that be "grain peeping"?

Since my GX680 bodies are a bit large for casual travel, I've bought a couple of new-in-box film inserts for a Mamiya 645 at $40 each including shipping and a mint 150mm f/3.5 for $98, also including shipping. Now the question is if I'm going for a $100 original M645 with AE finder or a newer 645 Pro which will cost me a mind blowing $300 in like new condition. Decisions, decisions... :ROTFL:
 

darr

Well-known member
If you shoot film and want to maintain the visual characteristics of film during the conversion to digital, you need a scanning process that maintains those characteristics ...
Thank you Jorgen for your thought provoking and informative post.

I enjoy shooting film and want to keep it as original as possible, but also have the ability to print and present digitally. I currently use the V700 for scanning, but the thought of using film holders with a digital camera and lightbox has crossed my mind. I shoot mainly 120 film and was toying with the idea of using my Hasselblad CFV-50c with a SK 120 macro lens, but was hoping someone else would do it first and share the results. My question is, do you think there may be a market for custom algorithms designed for specific films? Or would this not help the end results? Thanks in advance for any info.

Kind regards,
Darr
 

Shashin

Well-known member
If you shoot film and want to maintain the visual characteristics of film during the conversion to digital, you need a scanning process that maintains those characteristics. One of the consequences of that is that your scan resolution should be higher than the grain resolution of the film. This is particularly important with films where the grain structure is a part of the visual expression. Tri-X and HP5 are obvious examples of that, and I believe it's mostly more important with b&w than with colour, but even with a film like Portra 400, I think the grain structure is an important part of the film's colour and contrast rendering.
Well, if you are shooting negative films, B&W or color, then the idea of maintaining the visual qualities of the film don't really mean anything. Those films had to be printed. In that case it was the attributes of the film and the print, as well as the process and choices of the photographer/printer. If you are scanning chromes, Polaroids, or any positive process, then preserving the "look" of the positive may be important, but there is no reason a photographer has to simply reproduce an image, after all, printing a chrome on Cibachrome paper or its Kodak alternative would have given two different results, which would not visually look like the original. Photography is a process, not a particular defined result.

I do not understand what you mean by "grain resolution"? Films have a resolution, but that is not quite the same thing as grain. Grain structure is an emergent property in that you can make any size optical print for Tri-X and it will show the grain, regardless if the grain is resolved. It is the same with noise in digital. Image scale does not really impact the noise, which can be noticed at any scale. Grain is an inherent quality in film, which is why the technical term is granularity, and as long as the image of the film is sharp, the grain will be visible.

And whether a camera has an AA filter or not would not "disqualify" it for reproductions. You could also argue the cameras that have no AA filter should not be used as they can introduce artifacts that AA filters are designed to remove.

Using a camera to reproduce an image is a good idea, but a scanner should be better. Scanners do not use a Bayer pattern to interpolate colors--they use tricolor linear arrays. They also have higher resolutions. And because you can control scan output, you have better control over the reproduction. I noticed quite a few people that overexpose and overdevelop their B&W film. I am not sure a camera would handle that better than a scanner. Correctly developed negative would be very flat and so a camera image would not be maximizing data. I think cameras would be better suited to positive processes, particularly if you wanted to simply make a reproduction. Although, if you wanted to correct old faded film, the scanner would be better.

Nothing can really reproduce the qualities of a Polaroid...
 

Shashin

Well-known member
Thank you Jorgen for your thought provoking and informative post.

I enjoy shooting film and want to keep it as original as possible, but also have the ability to print and present digitally. I currently use the V700 for scanning, but the thought of using film holders with a digital camera and lightbox has crossed my mind. I shoot mainly 120 film and was toying with the idea of using my Hasselblad CFV-50c with a SK 120 macro lens, but was hoping someone else would do it first and share the results. My question is, do you think there may be a market for custom algorithms designed for specific films? Or would this not help the end results? Thanks in advance for any info.

Kind regards,
Darr
Darr, what don't you like about your scanner output, besides the length of time it takes to scan? ;) I think for chromes, the camera idea would wrk very well. I remember doing medium-format slide dupes with a 4x5 view camera and a light box. Great results. Since the camera response and the density range of the chromes will match, the results should be fine. I would just customize your camera WB to the light box. With negative film, the density range is flatter and a scanner will optimize that better. I am not sure you camera WB would handle the orange integral mask in color neg film and I certainly would not want to try to do that in post. :banghead:
 

Jorgen Udvang

Subscriber Member
Well, if you are shooting negative films, B&W or color, then the idea of maintaining the visual qualities of the film don't really mean anything. Those films had to be printed. In that case it was the attributes of the film and the print, as well as the process and choices of the photographer/printer. If you are scanning chromes, Polaroids, or any positive process, then preserving the "look" of the positive may be important, but there is no reason a photographer has to simply reproduce an image, after all, printing a chrome on Cibachrome paper or its Kodak alternative would have given two different results, which would not visually look like the original. Photography is a process, not a particular defined result.

I do not understand what you mean by "grain resolution"? Films have a resolution, but that is not quite the same thing as grain. Grain structure is an emergent property in that you can make any size optical print for Tri-X and it will show the grain, regardless if the grain is resolved. It is the same with noise in digital. Image scale does not really impact the noise, which can be noticed at any scale. Grain is an inherent quality in film, which is why the technical term is granularity, and as long as the image of the film is sharp, the grain will be visible.

And whether a camera has an AA filter or not would not "disqualify" it for reproductions. You could also argue the cameras that have no AA filter should not be used as they can introduce artifacts that AA filters are designed to remove.

Using a camera to reproduce an image is a good idea, but a scanner should be better. Scanners do not use a Bayer pattern to interpolate colors--they use tricolor linear arrays. They also have higher resolutions. And because you can control scan output, you have better control over the reproduction. I noticed quite a few people that overexpose and overdevelop their B&W film. I am not sure a camera would handle that better than a scanner. Correctly developed negative would be very flat and so a camera image would not be maximizing data. I think cameras would be better suited to positive processes, particularly if you wanted to simply make a reproduction. Although, if you wanted to correct old faded film, the scanner would be better.

Nothing can really reproduce the qualities of a Polaroid...
No, resolution is not the same as grain as you point out, but they are interconnected. Grain structure is also important for the perceived resolution, the details that you think you see when looking at a print, but can't find if you use a loupe. I find this particularly prominent with films like Tri-X and HP5. I agree that wet prints of negative film is always a better idea, but in a digital world, there's no way around scanning a photo if one wants to maintain a larger audience than close friends. When it comes to chromes and to a certain degree also Ektar 100, it's a totally different world.

Ironically, I mostly shot chromes before digital, striving for the qualities that are now so easily achieved with the new electronics. With the state of digital photography, I find chromes beautiful but boring for my purposes, since many of the chrome qualities can be found in digital cameras. This is also the reason why I think Kodachrome could never get a revival. It was a fantastic film, but most of what it did, a digital camera can do better. While that is to a certain degree true for other films as well, there isn't really a digital camera available that shoots Portra, Tri-X or Acros out of the box. Some can mimic the effects, and there's always post processing, but the satisfaction of getting a shot back from the lab that looks exactly what I planned for it to be is very satisfactory.
 
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