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Thanks,Santo
thats really cute! I'll have to try that
If you'd like a free option to start out with I've had good results with Hugin.Really good nice! Might save me some money on a wide angle lens. Is Photoshop the best software to do this? Or is special software like panoramo editor in the example above more suitable?
Hi,You've shown that one before and I marveled at the number of shots as I do again. (I've never tried more than 9 total-- 3 over 3 on tripod with shifting on TS lens--I've done handheld, but usually 4--2 over 2). Thanks for the workflow you give in another post.
Diane
Santo,Thanks Jonas,
I keep looking at that multi shot building pano, it's a great capture.
I've done a few 360 degree pans, but they're not easy to print. Here's a 360 pano that I wrapped around itself using polar coordinates in PS.
cheers
Santo
Larry,Forgive the rather bland pictures but I just got my Fotodiox shift adapter for the Minolta MD mount. I put a 28mm 2.8 Rokkor on it for a quick test.
Primarily got this setup for panos. The adapter has a tripod mount so that the lens will maintain position while the camera shifts, avoiding parallax. Very easy to use and quick to setup for panos.
The adapter rotates so that vertical shift is possible but using the adapter mount, the camera interferes and does not allow the rotation. I will have to figure something out with some sort of spacer. (...)
That's the idea. Works well. Will be useful for lots of things. I have other pano setups if needed.I'm not sure I understand your setup. Are you saying you just moved the camera in parallel to the target and then made your panos from (probably) three images each? I have seen that technique earlier and it seems very good but perhaps a little limiting as well.
Hi Larry:Forgive the rather bland pictures but I just got my Fotodiox shift adapter for the Minolta MD mount. I put a 28mm 2.8 Rokkor on it for a quick test.
<snip>
The aspect ratio is close to 3:1 which is near what I usually use for landscapes.
Larry
The body hits the tripod head. I use the Manfrotto quick release adapters (square) and the body prevents the quick plate from going into the head. I can probably cook up a fix.How does the camera interfere for vertical shots? Is it because the clamp extends under the camera body?
That's awesome! I was thinking of doing the same thing once I get a 4x5. Can you only slide the G1 horizontally with the setup, or can you flip the back so you can do the same thing vertically?I made a sliding back for my 4x5 so I could attach the Lumix G1 body and then use my large format lenses. Sort of a big tilt/shift arrangement. Think I may have posted this last year, but here is a garden pano made with this contraption and the Rodenstock APO-Sironar-S 135mm/5.6 lens.
The back can be flipped and you can also use rise/fall for multi row stitching if desired. I later bought a commercial version (chinese ebay) made for the eos mount and tried it with the G1 via an eos to m43 adapter, but the adapter adds too much extension to be useful. I do use it now occasionally with my 5DII.That's awesome! I was thinking of doing the same thing once I get a 4x5. Can you only slide the G1 horizontally with the setup, or can you flip the back so you can do the same thing vertically?
Thank you for the photo of your setup! Wouldn't using rise/fall on the back plate affect your focus plane because of the Scheimpflug effect? For the setup I'm designing I'd be doing rise/fall for the camera adapter only, but keeping the camera geometry fixed.The back can be flipped and you can also use rise/fall for multi row stitching if desired. I later bought a commercial version (chinese ebay) made for the eos mount and tried it with the G1 via an eos to m43 adapter, but the adapter adds too much extension to be useful. I do use it now occasionally with my 5DII.
I used rise/fall on the front standard for multi-row stitching with the camera in landscape orientation. Sample using 4 images:Thank you for the photo of your setup! Wouldn't using rise/fall on the back plate affect your focus plane because of the Scheimpflug effect? For the setup I'm designing I'd be doing rise/fall for the camera adapter only, but keeping the camera geometry fixed.
Interesting. Guess I need to refine my understanding of the Scheimpflug as it relates to back plane motion. Thanks!!I used rise/fall on the front standard for multi-row stitching with the camera in landscape orientation.
I honestly don't know for sure now. I thought it applied to any movement of the lens with respect to the film plane, but in hindsight I suppose shift/rise/fall would only affect the location of the focus plane along the film plane, but not the orientation of it.I thought that Scheimpflug applied to tilt/swing, not to shift/rise/fall?