GrahamWelland
Subscriber & Workshop Member
Get the wide first and the rest will fall into place.Cool setup Graham.
I'm envious
But I guarantee that you'll end up with either a CUBE or D4 head :ROTFL:
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Get the wide first and the rest will fall into place.Cool setup Graham.
I'm envious
Peter,Graham, here did you get those small pouches that are lying on your F-Stop?
Peter
Thanks Graham...Peter,
ThinkTank Photo Cable Management 10 & 20 pouches - I use them for all my cables, batteries etc. :thumbs:
GrahamBtw, once you get set up we expect the following kinds of images!
<need to fix images uploaded from iPhone obviously!>
That's not thread hijacking, Peter. That's just simply how Dante works in this forum. Thankfully Graham didn't show the image of him with the back of his Land Rover open...Graham, where did you get those small pouches that are lying on your F-Stop?
Peter
Tongue in cheek could be a new Dante mantra, but is actually very good advice. It's a lot more costly to juggle around a technical camera system to finally get what you should have (and knew you should have) purchased in the first place.Savings happens once, though and regret is eternal (or at least until the next upgrade...). Get what you want!
Best,
Matt
Matt:the glass is what matters.
Savings happens once, though and regret is eternal
PaulJamgolf
From my experience, I if you shoot the 40 HR-W directly. Towards the sun like on your examples it will flare and the flare is very destructive. Multi levels of color bars.
You can always place a finger over the sun on one frame but no hood that I am aware will keep the flare out.
The 40 Rod flare is similar to how the Nikon 14-24 flares if you are familiar with that.
The 40 also will ghost flare from indirect light but a hood will help a lot here.
I can't speak for the 32 and flare but as it's similar in design I would assume flare is still a possible issue shooting directly into the sun. But what flare you get most likely will be similar to the 40mm.
You are also correct that catching such flare us sometime hard on the camera LCD. I would consider trying tethered shooting, see Ken Doo's blog for a great write up.
The Schneider 43XL or 35XL will do a better job when shooting directly at the sun. I have taken many straight on shots with both and the flare is not the same or anywhere as destructive.
Paul
The STC would be my choice for a one body system. Combines compactness, handholdability (!) and flexibility. I do love my Max though for further possibilities, for instance it happens quite often that I need fall and a two image horizontal stitch at the same time for my interiors. The SWA I use both un urban settings as well as landscapes when I do not need stitching. Together with the SK 35 XL I can handhold this at 1/60 with consistant results.
The TC I also use frequently for a minimalistic, light and one lens (or two) setup when hiking.
So none of those classic bodies collect dust!
But again, I would be able to do almost everything with just the STC....
For lenschoice I agree starting with the wide end and simply get the one you want/need. If my choice was a hr40+hr70 or just the hr32 and you really wanted the 32....then I would go 32 and use that one lens for 6 months or 12 months or whatever it takes to get a second. The simple reason is that buying this level of lenses means you can use them for decades while backs will be bought and upgraded several times...
Best of luck on your journey with the finest camera equipment on earth
FredericWhile the 32HR may be slightly superior to the 40, you should also take your own preferences into account when it comes to choosing a focal length. If you're more of a wide angle guy then get the 32 indeed, otherwise the 40 may suit you better (normal wide, 27mm 24x36 equivalent on the long side).
Okay I had to check which image. Nothing in post for the flare that I can remember . It maybe due to more smoke compared to Jacks shot. Which would diffuse it more.Paul
Thanks for addressing my concern regarding lens flare. I have tried to look for examples of 40mm and 32mm that might exhibit such flare. On page 3 of the tech camera images thread, post #131 and #132 show that to some degree. Guy's shot with 32mm is clean and Jack's shot with 40mm has flare/rainbow. I don't know if Guy did much post processing to eliminate any flare, but it does not look like it.
Thanks also for pointing out SK 43XL and 35XL and their ability to avoid flare. I will add these to my consideration.
Cheers!
-Jawad
Thanks for your comments and advice Guy - much appreciated.The 32 is a nice lens. I opted for the Roadie 28 in the end . This was a lens I was using from the folks at CI. The 32 is a truck though.
Honestly they are all very good just a matter of 1st what works with your back. 2nd the look you are after and 3rd is they are not budget friendly so pick wisely.