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Yes and the physics of electronic sensor vs emulsion thickness may have an effect but I think that pixel peeping and "expectations" are the major contributor for the "difficulty".Is it more difficult to get a steady handheld shot with no camera shake with a MF camera and MFDB than with a MF camera and MF film?
When comparing the same size print: NOIs it more difficult to get a steady handheld shot with no camera shake with a MF camera and MFDB than with a MF camera and MF film?
Excellent!lets not forget that sharpness is a bourgeois concept -
I agree to everything Doug says and will add that mirror-less bodies AKA "Pancake" cameras (ALPA, Cambo, Arca-Swiss etc.) are less prone to camera shake also due to the gentle action of the Copal shutterWhen comparing the same size print: NO
When comparing the image at 100%: yes.
The later is much much more common.
With film, even with a good loupe it was difficult to analyze the maximum amount of detail you could get for a particular lens/film. With Digital you can double click and see a crystal clear 100% pixel view - by definition the sharpest it can be.
Any difference due to pixels versus flakes of silver are, IMO, minutia compared to the fact that in the days of film most photographer judged sharpness based on a (moderately) low powered loupe or the results at their typical print size, while today almost all images are judged at 100% without any regard to their final usage.
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So if sharpness is a bourgeois concept what is MFDB?lets not forget that sharpness is a bourgeois concept -
If I may answer for him, he meant CoG, which is short for "Center of Gravity" and is the three-dimensional point around which the mass of the camera is distributed such that it is perfectly balanced in every plane.Mediumcool what do you mean by COG? According to Wikipedia it could be any of the following but am not sure which definition you refer to:
* Cog (ship), a small sailing vessel
* The evil robots in Toontown Online
* The evil robot drones of the Machine Empire seen in Power Rangers: Zeo
* The humanoid robot at the center of the MIT Cog project
* The Mount Washington Cog Railway
* Cog, a Honda television commercial
* Cog (band), an Australian band
* Cog, an audio player for Mac OS X
* OpenCog, an open source artificial general intelligence framework
* The programming language used in the Star Wars Jedi Knight: Dark Forces II and Star Wars Jedi Knight: Mysteries of the Sith video games
The quote above is attributed to HCB..a French dude, you may have heard of him? - he did a bit of street shooting and reportage many decades ago.So if sharpness is a bourgeois concept what is MFDB?
lowep, you do give great list!Mediumcool what do you mean by COG? According to Wikipedia it could be any of the following but am not sure which definition you refer to:
* Cog (ship), a small sailing vessel
* The evil robots in Toontown Online
* The evil robot drones of the Machine Empire seen in Power Rangers: Zeo
* The humanoid robot at the center of the MIT Cog project
* The Mount Washington Cog Railway
* Cog, a Honda television commercial
* Cog (band), an Australian band
* Cog, an audio player for Mac OS X
* OpenCog, an open source artificial general intelligence framework
* The programming language used in the Star Wars Jedi Knight: Dark Forces II and Star Wars Jedi Knight: Mysteries of the Sith video games
You spoilt it! Bagarap!If I may answer for him, he meant CoG, which is short for "Center of Gravity" and is the three-dimensional point around which the mass of the camera is distributed such that it is perfectly balanced in every plane.
Read what Yair wrote above re using copal shutters you can hand hold at low shutter speeds..I get a lot of succes hand holding an Alpa with wides at low shutter speeds - I wouldnt try it with longer foal lengths.I often get sharp enough to print results from shutter speeds as low as 1/8th
Pete you are talking about on a tripod, right?
Otherwise you must have a fine COG yourself.
Regarding Contax in your experience is the auto focus good enough for unrushed portraits or does it need manual tweaking.
The reason I ask all this is I have a Contax 645 MFDB system that I am using on a tripod with cable release + mirror up for various output formats including large prints and am trying to figure out if it is a viable stopgap option for handheld shooting too; as one digital camera system with all the menus and cables and batteries and lenses already feels like one too many.
Canon still defines the focus by a 4"x6" or 5"x7" viewed at 8".Any difference due to pixels versus flakes of silver are, IMO, minutia compared to the fact that in the days of film most photographer judged sharpness based on a (moderately) low powered loupe or the results at their typical print size, while today almost all images are judged at 100% without any regard to their final usage.
Well, not that hard... A Peak 22x loupe and a light table is plenty.With film, even with a good loupe it was difficult to analyze the maximum amount of detail you could get for a particular lens/film.