dougpeterson
Workshop Member
1) Absolutely essential (for best results) to ensure your back has the latest firmware. Check under Menu > Configuration > About. If you don't have 5.1.2, and especially if you have something very old like 2.9.8 you will see much better results with longer exposures. More Info.
2) If you shoot four four-minute exposure in a row (just to select a specific example) without allowing the back to cool down then the noise in the image will be similar to a sixteen minute exposure. It's perfectly reasonable to adopt a workflow whereby you shoot as many frames quickly as you need to asses framing/exposure etc (including using high ISO images to estimate final proper exposure) and then wait a few minutes before capturing the "keeper".
3) Judging the back's temperature is not something that's really that easy to do. The entire chasis is constructed as a big heat sink, so it's not only normal to see the outside frame become warm/hot - it's the entire point! The only temperature that matters for long exposure noise purposes is the internal temperature of the back. The heat is pulled away from the sensor/A-D convertor to the exterior of the back where a large surface area can dissipate that heat into the air quickly (and without a fan).
4) Capture One versions and raw processing settings also matter a lot. Keep in mind that if you "push" the file one stop in post (a.k.a. +1 Exposure in C1) means you are effectively doubling the length of the exposure in post. So if you're temperature-limit was 10-minutes and you expose in-camera for 5 minutes and then slide exposure up to +1 in Capture One you will be going past the "maximum" - the world will not end but your noise levels will likely be higher than you want. The same principal applies to any image adjustment which increases exposure in the shadows (e.g. shadow recovery, curves, lens-vignette or LCC adjustments). NEVER try Lightroom/Aperture/etc/etc to process long exposures from Phase One - stick with Capture One, and specifically stick with Capture One 5.1.2 (or whatever the latest is when you read this).
With all that in mind: a P30+ back with recent firmware and which is shot when it's had a chance to cool off will behave very much in accordance to Phase One Long Exposure Guide which we have on our website. That of course is showing the maximum, so it's always a good idea to be conservative where possible.
P.S. Our company name is "Capture Integration", not "Capture One" (no worries of course - I just thought I'd clarify to avoid confusion of any other readers).
Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Leaf, Cambo, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 *| *Cell: 740.707.2183
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2) If you shoot four four-minute exposure in a row (just to select a specific example) without allowing the back to cool down then the noise in the image will be similar to a sixteen minute exposure. It's perfectly reasonable to adopt a workflow whereby you shoot as many frames quickly as you need to asses framing/exposure etc (including using high ISO images to estimate final proper exposure) and then wait a few minutes before capturing the "keeper".
3) Judging the back's temperature is not something that's really that easy to do. The entire chasis is constructed as a big heat sink, so it's not only normal to see the outside frame become warm/hot - it's the entire point! The only temperature that matters for long exposure noise purposes is the internal temperature of the back. The heat is pulled away from the sensor/A-D convertor to the exterior of the back where a large surface area can dissipate that heat into the air quickly (and without a fan).
4) Capture One versions and raw processing settings also matter a lot. Keep in mind that if you "push" the file one stop in post (a.k.a. +1 Exposure in C1) means you are effectively doubling the length of the exposure in post. So if you're temperature-limit was 10-minutes and you expose in-camera for 5 minutes and then slide exposure up to +1 in Capture One you will be going past the "maximum" - the world will not end but your noise levels will likely be higher than you want. The same principal applies to any image adjustment which increases exposure in the shadows (e.g. shadow recovery, curves, lens-vignette or LCC adjustments). NEVER try Lightroom/Aperture/etc/etc to process long exposures from Phase One - stick with Capture One, and specifically stick with Capture One 5.1.2 (or whatever the latest is when you read this).
With all that in mind: a P30+ back with recent firmware and which is shot when it's had a chance to cool off will behave very much in accordance to Phase One Long Exposure Guide which we have on our website. That of course is showing the maximum, so it's always a good idea to be conservative where possible.
P.S. Our company name is "Capture Integration", not "Capture One" (no worries of course - I just thought I'd clarify to avoid confusion of any other readers).
Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Leaf, Cambo, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 *| *Cell: 740.707.2183
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up
RSS Feed: Subscribe
Buy Capture One at 10% off
Personal Work