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Yes flare. I refused to buy the 40HR-W because of this horrible issue. A milky spot in the centre of the frame that sucks all the contrast of of that area of the image. Very easy to replicate IMO, even on an overcast day as it seems Rodenstock's are hyper critical of using a lens shade.I've been experiencing a really weird hot spot / flare issue when using my 90mm HR-W. It's a circular hot spot always seeming to be in the optical centre of the image (when using shifts / movements).
Agh! Thanks, I didn't know this was a well known issue with Rodenstock lenses. You've described exactly what I'm seeing so glad this should fix it...Yes flare. I refused to buy the 40HR-W because of this horrible issue. A milky spot in the centre of the frame that sucks all the contrast of of that area of the image. Very easy to replicate IMO, even on an overcast day as it seems Rodenstock's are hyper critical of using a lens shade.
The shade should short it out though.
So with a universal hood, how do you know how much to extend it for a given lens ? Of course, you can take a picture, see if the hood vignettes, retract it if it's the case, extend if not. So you do it once, but how do you avoid doing this each time you put the hood on ? Are there markers on the hood so you can write them down and know that for the 32mm you go to marker X and for the 90mm it's marker Y ?
Sadly, most of the modern Rodenstocks, at least the 32mm, 40mm, and 90mm all can suffer from the flare you are seeing. I was surprised to see this issue on the 90mm.
The 28mm for some reason is a bit less prone to see it, however I use the CF on it, so it may help in some way.
The Lee hood on the 90mm should eliminate this, you can probably just use the Lee Standard hood on the 90 and still shift it.
One of many features of the 43SK was it did not seem to be hampered by flare as bad, and it had a very nice sun star when shooting directly into the sun, I would never try this with the 40mm or 90mm as I believe the flare would be very hard to correct.
It's also strange that you can get this on overcast day's also, I sometimes see it on a overcast day when I have been lazy and tried to shoot without the hood. I pretty much just carry the Lee hood all the time now.
Remember to watch the mounting area, as you can very easily just push the whole rig off the wide Lee wide angle or regular adapter ring.
One other thought, if you use the wide angle adapter ring from Lee, make sure you don't have a CL-PL or any type of front rotating filter on the lens, the way the wide angle ring mounts, it covers the CL-PL and you can't grip it to get it off, thus the ring will just spin when you try to removed it.
Paul
Very much doubt a GG will be of any help as the edges of the GG are the darkest. Also the time taken to click and check is minimal compared to removing the back, check with GG then re-mount the back to take the shot.With the Techno and I guess Alpa et al, I guess that's where using the ground glass becomes essential. That or you use a GG and mark on the hood where each lens vignettes at what extension for quick setup in the field?
Yes, the 40 was by far the worst on overcast days and the brighter (thinner) the cloud the worse it became. Much less of a problem in bright sunny conditions.What really surprises me is that it happens the most on overcast days
Very much doubt a GG will be of any help as the edges of the GG are the darkest. Also the time taken to click and check is minimal compared to removing the back, check with GG then re-mount the back to take the shot.