"look - a sign! A blessing from the sky!" (c) MP & Holy GrailIm praying for good light. LOL
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"look - a sign! A blessing from the sky!" (c) MP & Holy GrailIm praying for good light. LOL
Every image I see posted shot with the SK35mm always looks like its a real gem of a lens without that distorted wide angle look. In comparison, virtually every image I've seen shot with the RS32mm has massive amounts of distortion/elongation of objects at the outer edges of the frame which look really terrible IMO. Always reminds me of my Canon 16-35mm L zoom lens which is really ugly if not used very carefully when shot at the 16mm end.Hmmm not sure still going through the selection process if I keep the 35mm which seems to be doing really well on the 160.
Hi Jack, funny that i made a picture over there too a few years ago. Never knew it was that famousI still prefer Olmstead Point shot in B&W. The sky was volatile when we were there this afternoon. 40mm HR-W, 1 degree tilt, 7.5mm rise, 1/30th @ f11, ISO 35:
:ROTFL:Hi Jack, funny that i made a picture over there too a few years ago. Never knew it was that famous
Trust me, it could be neon and flashing and the average bozo still wouldn't get it.I'm going to make a 4x4 ft sign that reads.
Move, Yes YOU bud!
Photographers at Work!!!
You just need a snappy title;Thought I show an image with stark contrast to all the landscapes
SWA • SK 72L • 1/60 • f8 • iso 50 • no shift
Tired, rundown, and deflated? Not been a Goodyear.
Guy just noticed your comments regarding the 35mm and thought I'd post my experience using it. I have a Schneider 35mm with CF and have found that while I could have larger movements than 10mm I've tended not to exceed that mark. I also found the closer to 15mm the worse it got to the point of being unusable.You read my mind. Been thinking the same thing of converting my 35 into a TS. I actually like the 35mm lens a lot. My only bitch if I have one is using the CF all the time. But I truly believe that is the price to pay for having a effective 22mm in your bag that is small. I need to test a little more on shifting with it to see where it falls apart but lets be really honest here , how much are you going to shift a 22mm effective lens , maybe stretch it to a 18mm lens so that maybe only a 10mm stitch either way. MORE important than anything and I have said this before don't care if your shooting landscape, interiors or whatever once you level up the cam rise and fall are the most important assists to tech cams. EVERY shot I did had either one in it. Even handheld with a swing on one shot i raised the lens so my horizontal was NOT dead in the middle of the frame.
We really need to think on how we use these lenses. I think we get to wrapped up in other areas and not think about the actual needs you have. Rise and fall to me is the reason to have a tech cam in the first place outside the quality of the glass. Sure stitching is great and useful but with really wide lenses I have question marks there.
Now if I had a 180 back this lens i would NOT use as it just is too limited from what I have seen. 180 users would be better off with the Rodie 40 or SK 43mm. The Rodie 32mm may work better also for 180 users. For 160 users and the 6 micron sensors the 35mm works nice if you keep it within its limits.