Tech cams are often used with wide angles, but here's a long shot
. I like longer lenses and have recently picked up an 180mm.
It's a section of a bridge in the town where I live, lit by the evening sun. I chose my position carefully so the bow of the bridge would be reflected in the water patch.
Linhof Techno, Schneider Digitar 180mm, Hasselblad CF22. Developed in RawTherapee. I've borrowed the back from a friend (my own is at repair as usual). I tried to figure out how Hasselblad's color profiling works so I could transfer it to RawTherapee but did not really do it, so the colors is rendered with just the default matrix. For landscape it's certainly adequate though, and the often difficult yellow tones from the evening light turned out really well.
It's shot at f/16, hyperfocal would be as much as 95 meters (for CoC=Airy disk). Therefore close foreground is slightly out of focus. I thought about tilting but the battery ran out before I could try that. As this back as most older ones has a fuzzy focus check (ie impossible to differ between tack sharp and almost-sharp) one really need to know what one is doing if tilting, as one cannot really check after if it was okay. In this case I would need about 18mm DoF height to cover the bridge (half sensor height), which would give me 2.0 degrees tilt on the 180mm at f/16, which would be 5.2 meters hinge distance, maybe a bit too large for the wedge to get above ground level in time, but a thing I would have tested if I had working sharpness check (and an extra battery with me
). f/22 would change the equation to 4 degrees and 2.6 meters which would have worked out, but then hyperfocal would be 48 meters so it would be close. I would have used my Leitz Fokos range finder to check the distance to the foreground to be able to decide what to do but as I was out of batteries in the back I did not do that. If both hyperfocal and tilt work out equivalently I choose tilt though as I'm using a view camera and hyperfocal focusing therefore often becomes a bit approximate.
While the 22 megapixel back does swallow f/22 without much image degradation, I'd probably prefer f/16 and slight defocus on the dark grass in foreground anyway, as peak sharpness on the fine details on the bridge is more important.