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I would like the grip used for better thermal management (ie. Cooling the sensor).If anything - why is it so difficult to get a bigger battery ? An NPF550 would be probably too much, but halfway ?
And: when someone wants to make a batterygrip: why not use bigger batteries as well ? Plus: when will there be a batterygrip where the originally installed
battery can stay in place and the grip just plugs in with external contacts ? Also: as Panasonic does it with the GH 4: a grip has plenty of additional space for Plugs,
I want additional large HDMI, Video outs for a monitor, Mics, maybe a GPS module as an addon , a wifi booster and all kind of goodies that could be crammed into this space.
I want an open source SDK for the Apps of the Sony. Document the interfaces and how to use them,
And finally: Ceterum censeo MULTISHOT SENSORSHIFT ! (see Olympus)
I WANT. I WANT . I DEMAND.............SONY....... PLEASE !!!!!!
Stefan, I am working on a few types (for my use). When something works, I will post it here and hope someone will pick it up for commercial production.Leaf had Peltier cooling 20 Years ago. I wonder if it would n´t be possible to do something like this again - and yes - that is a flaw.
Obviously after 20 minutes of 4k recording in a row, the camera heats up. Depends on the display also, but hey, using the battery grip for this is a good idea Vivek !
This is a feature of focus by wire : the faster you turn the focus ring, the faster the focus distance change and the slower you turn it, the less it change. I find it confusing too.I picked mine up today. I think this camera will last a good long time!
4. I still can't manual focus FE lenses. They seem to have a mind of their own - I swear turning the focus ring sometimes does very little and sometimes does a lot.
Dave
My trick now in focusing is . Have camera in MF use the back button to AF real quick than hit my 12x zoom (C1)and fine tune manually from there. Why because the AF is either dead on or damn close and I'm already at the focus distance so it's really a matter of a fine tune than a sweeping MF movement. Makes it very quick and if you have these AF fly by wire lenses take advantage of the quick AF. Works real nice with both Batis lenses. The other part is say you switched to a manual lens than your already setup for it.This is a feature of focus by wire : the faster you turn the focus ring, the faster the focus distance change and the slower you turn it, the less it change. I find it confusing too.
So Guy, I want to try this but I cannot make it work as you describe. I set C2* to "Focus Magnifier" and the AF/MF button to "AF On". With the 55 mounted, if I set the camera to MF, then it doesn't autofocus when I push the AF/MF button, but C2 does zoom in like it should. If I set the camera to AF, then it does focus if and only if I hit the AF/MF button. But now when I hit C2 it says setting not available in AF-single shot mode. I get that warning regardless of AF-S, AF-A, AF-C or DMF.My trick now in focusing is . Have camera in MF use the back button to AF real quick than hit my 12x zoom (C1)and fine tune manually from there. Why because the AF is either dead on or damn close and I'm already at the focus distance so it's really a matter of a fine tune than a sweeping MF movement. Makes it very quick and if you have these AF fly by wire lenses take advantage of the quick AF. Works real nice with both Batis lenses. The other part is say you switched to a manual lens than your already setup for it.
I also turn off the auto focus fly by wire stuff when touching the lens. That drives me crazy
Yes that is correctThanks Guy,
That works!
John,
I think the AF/MF - AEL switch is a dual switch, like Canon always does (or used to do). If you have the lever up, the button's std meaning is AF/MF. If you have the lever down and push the button it does AEL.
Dave