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I do hope so but this is what Hasselblad rep recently posted on another thread.I just read an interesting tid-bit on another forum dedicated to Hasselblad. Evidently a photographer on that forum ordered the new focus upgrade for an existing 39 meg camera.
If that is true ... it is a big deal since I wouldn't sell off my existing H3D-II/39 just upgrade it. I will investigate if this true.
Mark,I just read an interesting tid-bit on another forum dedicated to Hasselblad. Evidently a photographer on that forum ordered the new focus upgrade for an existing 39 meg camera.
If that is true ... it is a big deal since I wouldn't sell off my existing H3D-II/39 just upgrade it. I will investigate if this true.
This is a very interesting test. Hasselblad has published tests comparing the Hasselblad V series lenses to the Hasselblad H series lenses. In the article they included the MTF charts for the lenses.Most of the V series zeiss lenses come very close to the resolution of the H series lenses but are optimized differently. The H lenses are very similar in resolution to the new Phase One D lenses. It is true that the Schneider/Rodenstock lenses are better, resolve higher, especially at the edges.
The 120mm in particular may not be a great lens for digital. I haven't compared it to the H series 120mm version, but we have compared the H series 120mm to the Phase One 120mm and I was surprised at the difference. By inference, this perhaps sheds some light on the capability of the CFE 120mm/F4.
http://www.captureintegration.com/tests/phase-one/
Steve Hendrix
This is a very interesting test. Hasselblad has published tests comparing the Hasselblad V series lenses to the Hasselblad H series lenses. In the article they included the MTF charts for the lenses.
You can download the article here:
http://www.hasselblad.dk/downloads/technical-articles.aspx
I was wondering, do you have a link to where I can see the MTF charts for the new Mamiya/Phase One lenses? I would be very interested in seeing them.
Your logic might be right but in my experience the difference between a tack sharp MF image and one that might be called acceptable is huge. The former jumps off the page and the best I can say about the latter is it might be acceptable, but not what I'm after. If I miss focus by 3" the image is probably headed to the trash bin. Also, if I'm not mistaken, the DOF guides are not all that accurate for digital backs and get less accurate as the MP increases.I made a simple (too simple ?) test tonight:
Facing a wall I measured the distance between me and the part of the wall just in front of me (this point being the center position of the frame) = 10 feet. Then I measured again between me (at the exact same position) to what would be the position of the corner of the frame on this wall. Distance increased by 3 inches.
So if I had to focus on the corner position and move to center to recompose, does that mean that the focus point would be 3 inches to far for a correct corner focus ?
In my example, and if I was using a 100mm lens at f5,6, it will also mean that I will also not have any OOF problem (15 inches DOF at this distance, normally 5 in front and 10 backwards, but here 5-3 = 2 in front and 13 backwards) so no big deal after all.
Exactly -- well said David.Your logic might be right but in my experience the difference between a tack sharp MF image and one that might be called acceptable is huge. The former jumps off the page and the best I can say about the latter is it might be acceptable, but not what I'm after. If I miss focus by 3" the image is probably headed to the trash bin. Also, if I'm not mistaken, the DOF guides are not all that accurate for digital backs and get less accurate as the MP increases.