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Thread: TMAX100 in Caffenol

  1. #1
    Super Duper
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    TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Still experimenting with film/developer combos. This is TMAX 100 developed in Caffenol-C-L. 16g/l washing soda, 10g/l vitamin C, 1g/l KBr, and last, but not least, 40g/l Folgers instant coffee. Stand development for one hour. Nice negs with no fog and good density range.

    Shen Hao TFC69-A,Nikkor SW 65mm f/4, TMAX 100 120 film.
    Last edited by scho; 13th December 2010 at 18:52. Reason: punctuation
    Carl
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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Carl,

    I'm really interested in this procedure. I never got into developing film due to the chemicals involved and the impact on the environment. I'm thinking of giving a shot to this but I got a couple of questions.

    On the site you linked, they show some images true B&W and some sepia (your image has a sepia tone to it as well). How come you get different looks using the same ingredients?

    Also, is there a substitute for the fixer as well? I would like to try an all environmental safe procedure if possible.

    What about times? There are different tables available for the different developers/fixers/stop baths out there, but I couldn't find anything in regard to this procedure.

    Keep in mind that I never developed a film so don't assume I'm familiar with all the lingo

    Thanks,
    Valentin

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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Quote Originally Posted by Valentin View Post
    Carl,

    I'm really interested in this procedure. I never got into developing film due to the chemicals involved and the impact on the environment. I'm thinking of giving a shot to this but I got a couple of questions.

    On the site you linked, they show some images true B&W and some sepia (your image has a sepia tone to it as well). How come you get different looks using the same ingredients?

    Also, is there a substitute for the fixer as well? I would like to try an all environmental safe procedure if possible.

    What about times? There are different tables available for the different developers/fixers/stop baths out there, but I couldn't find anything in regard to this procedure.

    Keep in mind that I never developed a film so don't assume I'm familiar with all the lingo

    Thanks,
    Valentin
    The negatives are usually normal, B&W with a slight yellow stain from the coffee. The image I posted above was grayscale split toned in Lightroom.

    Here are the caffenol recipes with details on mixing and developing times. I followed the procedures for caffenol C-L given in the table. Very easy process.

    I use a commercial non-hardening rapid fixer (ammonium thiosulfate) from Ilford or Arista from Freestyle. Others are available as well.
    Carl
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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Quote Originally Posted by scho View Post
    ...
    I use a commercial non-hardening rapid fixer (ammonium thiosulfate) from Ilford or Arista from Freestyle. Others are available as well.

    Thank you.

    I've seen videos on Youtube using just water for the stop bath. Is that a good procedure or do you recommend on using any of the commercial available ones? Another one used water with liquid soap: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZSKrfen6DU

    Where did you get the Potassium Bromide?

    Thanks again,
    Valentin

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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Quote Originally Posted by Valentin View Post
    Thank you.

    I've seen videos on Youtube using just water for the stop bath. Is that a good procedure or do you recommend on using any of the commercial available ones? Another one used water with liquid soap: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZSKrfen6DU

    Where did you get the Potassium Bromide?

    Thanks again,
    Valentin
    Doesn't seem to matter if you use an acid stop bath or just wash a few times with water (fill, agitate, dump 3x). I bought KBr from Photographers Formulary.

    I think the water with liquid soap was a substitute for Photo flo in the final rinse before hanging and drying. Just buy a small bottle of photo flo and it will last for years. You only need a couple of drops in dist water for the last dip before hanging.
    Carl
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    tokengirl
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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Quote Originally Posted by Valentin View Post
    Thank you.

    I've seen videos on Youtube using just water for the stop bath. Is that a good procedure or do you recommend on using any of the commercial available ones?
    Using an acid stop bath will *stop* the development process instantly. Water, maybe not so fast.

    If you are doing a long "stand" development with a low dilution developer (for example Rodinal 1:100 for one hour), a water bath is fine, because after such a long development time, the developer is pretty much exhausted anyways.

    But if you are using a strong dilution and short development time, the acid stop bath may be a better choice.

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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Thank you Carl and tokengirl.

    So, the steps would be as follows?

    1. use distilled water to pre-soak the film (about 1 min with agitation)
    2. developer (using one of the formulas like CCL)
    3. stop bath (distilled water 3 times or the acid one)
    4. fixer
    5. photo flo
    6. rinse with water

    For step 6, does it matter the temperature of the water?

    Another thing that came to mind: while the developer is made out of eco friendly chemicals, by using it in the developing process, will it not mix with silver from the emulsion making it not so eco friendly to dump down the drain (same for the fixer)?

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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Quote Originally Posted by Valentin View Post
    Thank you Carl and tokengirl.

    So, the steps would be as follows?

    1. use distilled water to pre-soak the film (about 1 min with agitation)
    2. developer (using one of the formulas like CCL)
    3. stop bath (distilled water 3 times or the acid one)
    4. fixer
    5. photo flo
    6. rinse with water

    For step 6, does it matter the temperature of the water?

    Another thing that came to mind: while the developer is made out of eco friendly chemicals, by using it in the developing process, will it not mix with silver from the emulsion making it not so eco friendly to dump down the drain (same for the fixer)?
    You photo flo BEFORE the final rinse?
    I have always had the photo flo the last thing I do before hanging up to dry it.

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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Quote Originally Posted by Valentin View Post
    Thank you Carl and tokengirl.

    So, the steps would be as follows?

    1. use distilled water to pre-soak the film (about 1 min with agitation)
    2. developer (using one of the formulas like CCL)
    3. stop bath (distilled water 3 times or the acid one)
    4. fixer
    5. photo flo
    6. rinse with water

    For step 6, does it matter the temperature of the water?

    Another thing that came to mind: while the developer is made out of eco friendly chemicals, by using it in the developing process, will it not mix with silver from the emulsion making it not so eco friendly to dump down the drain (same for the fixer)?
    1. 5 minute pre-soak in tap water
    2. Develop as outlined (10 gentle inversions and then 1 hour stand)
    3. Stop bath or tap water rinse
    4. Fix (note 5-10 min with tmax 120 or longer if negs have a magenta cast)
    5. hypo clear for 2 min (optional)
    5. 10 minute tap water wash
    6. final rinse in dist water with photo flo
    7. hang to dry

    Check with your local treatment plant for advise on disposal. You are working with relatively small quantities of material so probably not much to worry about.
    Carl
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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Quote Originally Posted by Valentin View Post
    ...I never got into developing film due to the chemicals involved and the impact on the environment....
    Quote Originally Posted by M5-Guy View Post
    You photo flo BEFORE the final rinse?
    I have always had the photo flo the last thing I do before hanging up to dry it.
    You got your answer right there

    I never did my own developing. Since this will not be for high volume work, I would like to give it a shot for fun.

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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Quote Originally Posted by scho View Post
    ...
    5. hypo clear for 2 min (optional)
    ...
    Thanks Carl. What is the above? This is the first time I've heard about it.

  12. #12
    tokengirl
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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Hypo Clear does exactly what it says - it clears the hypo (hypo = fixer). It is optional, as water will do the job if you wash long enough. But Hypo Clear will cut down your washing time significantly and therefore save a lot of water. If you use Hypo Clear, you can cut your wash time to five minutes. I just found some negatives I developed almost 30 years ago using this wash method, they are still perfect.

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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Quote Originally Posted by tokengirl View Post
    Hypo Clear does exactly what it says - it clears the hypo (hypo = fixer). It is optional, as water will do the job if you wash long enough. But Hypo Clear will cut down your washing time significantly and therefore save a lot of water. If you use Hypo Clear, you can cut your wash time to five minutes. I just found some negatives I developed almost 30 years ago using this wash method, they are still perfect.
    Thank you. My confusion is coming from the fact that Carl listed two steps: one with hypo clear and one with photo flo. To me, it looks like they are the same thing but I'm not sure. Still not clear if they are two different things or not.


    ETA: after some more digging it looks like they are different things.

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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    Quote Originally Posted by scho View Post
    1. 5 minute pre-soak in tap water
    2. Develop as outlined (10 gentle inversions and then 1 hour stand)
    3. Stop bath or tap water rinse
    4. Fix (note 5-10 min with tmax 120 or longer if negs have a magenta cast)
    5. hypo clear for 2 min (optional)
    5. 10 minute tap water wash
    6. final rinse in dist water with photo flo
    7. hang to dry

    Check with your local treatment plant for advise on disposal. You are working with relatively small quantities of material so probably not much to worry about.

    Well, I have successfully developed my very first film ever. It was Ilford Delta 100 (35mm). Using the same formula as Carl.

    1. 2 min soak
    2. Develop for 1 hour (stand development)
    3. Water rinse (3x)
    4. Fix for 5 min
    5. 10 min tap water wash
    6. Photo Flo

    The negative looks good. I will post some pictures when I will scan them. I was surprised (besides having the film come out ) at how cold 68 water was and how small the difference is between 68 and 70.

    Thanks Carl for the inspiration and everybody for their input.

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    Re: TMAX100 in Caffenol

    While you should always do your own research about disposing/dumping of chemicals, unless you are on a septic tank, dumping used developer down the drain usually isn't a problem. As long as you are using 'normal' developers. There's not that much silver in it. The used fixer is traditionally the one you need to be more conscious about since that is the chemical that actively pulls the unused silver out of the film. Some localities let you dump small amounts of that down the drain, but it's pretty easy to store up your used fixer and dispose of it in another manner - at a local darkroom/developing shop or at your local hazardous chemical disposal drop off.

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