V
Vivek
Guest
Jonas, It gets even more complicated as the number of glass plates (and their thickness) in front of the sensors get to be huge factor. A lot of mush is generated from these and exacerbate any aberrations inherent in the lenses.
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Oh yes. But I don't think the filters of all sorts does much for optical vignetting MrFanny asked about (except for add to the blur in general).Jonas, It gets even more complicated as the number of glass plates (and their thickness) in front of the sensors get to be huge factor. A lot of mush is generated from these and exacerbate any aberrations inherent in the lenses.
So what kind of adapter would i need to mount a biotar or helios to a gh1? Or any suggestions to a c-mount with this characteristic? should i start a new thread?
cheers.
Hmm. Yes, swirly bokeh can be nice. But...Hey thanks guys for clearing it up for me at a beginner level..ha I thought i was talking crazy talk for a moment there.
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So what kind of adapter would i need to mount a biotar or helios to a gh1? Or any suggestions to a c-mount with this characteristic? should i start a new thread?
Do you have to modify the lens to fit to the C mount adapter or is it ok directly ? Thank youYes. Cleaning is good not only for the contrast but for the speed! If you have a less than crystal clear 0.95 lens, the speed will not be that but more in the range of ~f/1.2!
On the question of "if they are worth it"? only you can decide!
Here is a shot through the Senko 25/0.95 (not as fast as the Navitar 25/0.95 though both samples are brand new!). As shot- with no crops in camera or outside the camera.
100% crop.
It is not only the focus that is important but also the exposure- in particular when one is using super fast lenses. For hand-held shots, I would recommend atleast 1/250s shutter speed (assuming there is little subject motion).
Do you have to modify the lens to fit to the C mount adapter or is it ok directly ? Thank you