Brian Mosley
New member
No, no more DR - just more headroom on auto exposure... which gives the impression of more DR.
Cheers
Brian
Cheers
Brian
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Yes.Is the ISO200 thing the same for the EP-1?
Ah . . . Like this one you mean?I guess if this one had IS it would be completely a dud
Hi Terry, I had a look at your blips and they are just..Mmmmmmm....fantastic!! I fell in love with the old shack and tree with the mountains in behind......I guess coming from the M8 with no stabilization I don't really feel like I'm missing it.
I haven't really thought to myself if only this were stabilized I could have gotten the shot. typically I find if I need a shutter speed that low there is much greater chance that my subject is moving than me moving.
I'm obviously the exception to the rule, but I prefer the look of the E-P1's ISO100 files to its ISO200 files. And because I rarely ever shoot on true auto -- I seem to tweak the exposure compensation for nearly every image -- I don't see any benefit to having more perceived headroom at the expense of less actual dynamic range.No, no more DR - just more headroom on auto exposure... which gives the impression of more DR.
I'm no GF1 basher, as I own a pair of them, but for some purposes, the E-P1 is simply a better tool, even if I don't like the experience of using it very much. :-/Still, just because we used to do without it does not mean we should eschew it now. I certainly don't miss it with my GF1/20 combination - but I will admit it would be nice to have.
Thanks Bill,Hi Terry, I had a look at your blips and they are just..Mmmmmmm....fantastic!! I fell in love with the old shack and tree with the mountains in behind......
But likely more DR than using 100.
It isn't more or less actual DR. It is the same. The E-P1 and E-P2 settings for ISO 100 and ISO 200 set the camera to an identical actual ISO setting. Ie, what those cameras call ISO 100 and ISO 200 refer to the same base ISO.I don't see any benefit to having more perceived headroom at the expense of less actual dynamic range.
well I wouldn't call that a dud, but there is something sharp in there, the carpet.Ah . . . Like this one you mean?
Well, if you're using the histogram to expose correctly - why not go the whole hog and use Manual exposure? no need for EV compensation then. :thumbup:I'm obviously the exception to the rule, but I prefer the look of the E-P1's ISO100 files to its ISO200 files. And because I rarely ever shoot on true auto -- I seem to tweak the exposure compensation for nearly every image -- I don't see any benefit to having more perceived headroom at the expense of less actual dynamic range.
YMMV, of course, but on those occasions when I need IS, there is no reliable substitute, which is why I put up with the E-P1's many idiosyncracies and carry it with me everywhere instead of one of my GF1s.
Actually, I do that ... sort of. There are exceptions, of course, but generally speaking, I first meter the scene with my Sekonic L-758 (as a view camera user, I'm used to doing the heavy lifting with regard to exposure calculations myself and old habits die hard) to get a feel for the exposure range of the scene and determine my starting point. I then use exposure compensation to dial-in my calculated shutter speed because I find it quicker/easier to use the camera this way than in pure manual form. I also find it quicker/easier to bracket exposures this way and FWIW, I rarely ever look at the histogram.Well, if you're using the histogram to expose correctly - why not go the whole hog and use Manual exposure? no need for EV compensation then. :thumbup:
Then it's obviously just me, but I've compared these two settings many times and in .jpg form, at least (for the type of stuff I photograph with my E-P1, I usually don't bother with the RAW files), I definitely have a preference for the ISO 100 images. That said, I will have to look into Amin's suggestion about shooting ISO 200 with +1 stop of compensation and compare that to the straight ISO 100 image as I haven't tried this before with this camera...ISO 100 isn't any better... ISO 200 is the way to go.