Is Sony A7S series the best for getting a good image on the LCD in low light?

[wallpaperviking]

Hi,
I have a project where I am shooting in extreme low light and I intend to hook the camera up to an external monitor, due to the awkward positioning of it. Was just wondering what camera you guys would suggest for getting the best image on the rear LCD (which then feeds to the external monitor).

I currently have a Fuji GFX 50S and this struggles a little bit for this purpose. Even when I crank the ISO or the shutter speed to get an image, it is sort of flickery and extremely hard to manual focus.

I have heard the Sony A7S series lets people see more than they can with the naked eye. Would this be the way to go?

It is only 12 mpx which might be an issue, is there something that gives similar results but in a higher mpx count?

It is mainly about focusing and viewing, obviously I can use a slower shutter speed when actually capturing the image.

Thanks so much in advance, look forward to hearing any suggestions..

 

[pegelli]

I have no direct experience, but given the fact that the "downsampled to 8MP" SNR graph for the A7Riii, A7S and Hasselblad X1D is almost identical (DXOmark, unfortunately the Fuji GFX 50S is not in their database, so I used the Hasselblad as a "stand-in" 50 MP 33x44 sensor of the same vintage) I suspect you will see little difference on the LCD screen for focussing etc.

Obviously this is just theory, if anybody has practical experience that would be much better, maybe send a PM to member gurtch or Knorp, they both use a Sony A7 series as well as a Fuji GFX 50 series camera and they might be able to test this for you.

 

[wallpaperviking]

I have no direct experience, but given the fact that the "downsampled to 8MP" SNR graph for the A7Riii, A7S and Hasselblad X1D is almost identical (DXOmark, unfortunately the Fuji GFX 50S is not in their database, so I used the Hasselblad as a "stand-in" 50 MP 33x44 sensor of the same vintage) I suspect you will see little difference on the LCD screen for focussing etc.

Obviously this is just theory, if anybody has practical experience that would be much better, maybe send a PM to member gurtch or Knorp, they both use a Sony A7 series as well as a Fuji GFX 50 series camera and they might be able to test this for you.

Good one, thanks for the tip... The advice of somebody who has both cameras is certainly going to be very helpful.

Thanks again!

 

[Knorp]

I have no direct experience, but given the fact that the "downsampled to 8MP" SNR graph for the A7Riii, A7S and Hasselblad X1D is almost identical (DXOmark, unfortunately the Fuji GFX 50S is not in their database, so I used the Hasselblad as a "stand-in" 50 MP 33x44 sensor of the same vintage) I suspect you will see little difference on the LCD screen for focussing etc.

Obviously this is just theory, if anybody has practical experience that would be much better, maybe send a PM to member gurtch or Knorp, they both use a Sony A7 series as well as a Fuji GFX 50 series camera and they might be able to test this for you.

Of course I'd like to help, but you have to explain what/how you want me to test.

 

[Godfrey]

All EVF/LCD cameras will have their limits in light collection and will not be able to illuminate the LCD or viewfinder below some threshold of illumination. I've run into this problem with every EVF/LCD camera I've owned. Of course, in these circumstances, I know for a fact that there's not enough light to focus an SLR or an RF either.

My solution is to add light. I carry a small flashlight with a narrow, high intensity white light beam which I can use to illuminate something at the distance I need to focus on. I'd like get one with a small pointer laser as well... I use that to aid the camera in forming an image for focusing, set the focus (manually of course), then turn off the light and make my exposure.

This is a good example. It was so dark that I could barely see the door handle even with my unaided eye, so I used the flashlight to briefly illuminate it and set the focus.

Light At 3AM - Santa Clara 2020
Hasselblad 907x + XCD 21mm f/4
ISO 400 @ f/4.8 @ 32 sec​

I've had a Sony A7 in the past as well as many other EVF/LCD cameras before and since. They've all been pretty much the same when it comes to the low level light that the viewfinder could cope with, varying by a stop or so at most.

G

 

[wallpaperviking]

Of course I'd like to help, but you have to explain what/how you want me to test.

Hi,

Thanks for the reply..

I guess I am just wondering if the Sony you have is better than the GFX, for viewing images off the LCD in really low light? Or is there not that much difference?

Thanks!

 

[wallpaperviking]

Cheers Godfrey, really helpful!

 

[RossNH]

...I have heard the Sony A7S series lets people see more than they can with the naked eye. Would this be the way to go?

It is only 12 mpx which might be an issue, is there something that gives similar results but in a higher mpx count? ........

The A7RII through A7RIV and the A7III all have the bright monitoring functionality which might help you out.

 

[wallpaperviking]

The A7RII through A7RIV and the A7III all have the bright monitoring functionality which might help you out.

Good One! Will aim to check out the Sony line once i get out of Corona lockdown....

 

[Audii-Dudii]

I have been watching this thread for a while and as one who has been using external monitors with a Sony A7R to do the type of nighttime photography I prefer (i.e., photographing urban and suburban street and alley scenes using low-light, long-exposures at base ISO) for several years now, I keep thinking I should add something to it.

Except I have never even seen an A7S or other A7S series body, let alone used one in this manner, and based on my first-hand experience using each of the A7 and A7R-series bodies released to date, there are just too many variables in play generally and too many quirky idiosyncrasies with each camera to make any universal statements about this aspect of their performance.

However, what I can say with some confidence is the only way you will ever be able to answer your questions is to round-up the specific body and monitor you have in mind, use them exactly as you intend to do for your project, and judge their performance for yourself. Which is because specs alone don't tell the complete story. Far from it, in fact!

To that end, I bought and tested a total seven monitors, ranging in price from $150 to $1,100, during the early stages of my project, ultimately returning five of them as wholly unsuitable for my purposes and keeping two: a one-pound, 2k monitor with a 7" screen for when traveling light was a priority and a 2.5 pound, 4k monitor with a 12.5" 4k screen for when it wasn't. After that, there was a lot of trial-and-error testing done with various cables, batteries, and rotating mounts to get them rigged properly, so this definitely isn't a pay-and-play process (or at least it wasn't approx. two years ago, which is when I finally arrived at workable solutions for my needs and stopped researching the subject), so be warned about what lies ahead for you...

That said, though, I have found the experience of working with a large, high-resolution monitor to be unparalleled. The 12.5" monitor, in particular, reminds me of the ground glass of my Toyo 810G, except it's brighter, less grainy, more contrasty, and much easier to use. If you prefer, you can even tweak the monitor settings so it displays images upside down and reversed left-to-right and have yourself a proper view camera experience!

My advice then is to borrow or rent (or buy if you can take advantage of a liberal return policy) the various pieces of gear that interest you and see for yourself how well they meet your performance requirements. Unfortunately, in my experience, there really is no alternative ... good luck!

P.S.: External monitors potentially work very well for daytime photography, too (although shading them effectively and/or minimizing glare can be problematic under some circumstances.)

 

[wallpaperviking]

I have been watching this thread for a while and as one who has been using external monitors with a Sony A7R to do the type of nighttime photography I prefer (i.e., photographing urban and suburban street and alley scenes using low-light, long-exposures at base ISO) for several years now, I keep thinking I should add something to it.

Except I have never even seen an A7S or other A7S series body, let alone used one in this manner, and based on my first-hand experience using each of the A7 and A7R-series bodies released to date, there are just too many variables in play generally and too many quirky idiosyncrasies with each camera to make any universal statements about this aspect of their performance.

However, what I can say with some confidence is the only way you will ever be able to answer your questions is to round-up the specific body and monitor you have in mind, use them exactly as you intend to do for your project, and judge their performance for yourself. Which is because specs alone don't tell the complete story. Far from it, in fact!

To that end, I bought and tested a total seven monitors, ranging in price from $150 to $1,100, during the early stages of my project, ultimately returning five of them as wholly unsuitable for my purposes and keeping two: a one-pound, 2k monitor with a 7" screen for when traveling light was a priority and a 2.5 pound, 4k monitor with a 12.5" 4k screen for when it wasn't. After that, there was a lot of trial-and-error testing done with various cables, batteries, and rotating mounts to get them rigged properly, so this definitely isn't a pay-and-play process (or at least it wasn't approx. two years ago, which is when I finally arrived at workable solutions for my needs and stopped researching the subject), so be warned about what lies ahead for you...

That said, though, I have found the experience of working with a large, high-resolution monitor to be unparalleled. The 12.5" monitor, in particular, reminds me of the ground glass of my Toyo 810G, except it's brighter, less grainy, more contrasty, and much easier to use. If you prefer, you can even tweak the monitor settings so it displays images upside down and reversed left-to-right and have yourself a proper view camera experience!

My advice then is to borrow or rent (or buy if you can take advantage of a liberal return policy) the various pieces of gear that interest you and see for yourself how well they meet your performance requirements. Unfortunately, in my experience, there really is no alternative ... good luck!

P.S.: External monitors potentially work very well for daytime photography, too (although shading them effectively and/or minimizing glare can be problematic under some circumstances.)

Thanks for the long, informative post, much appreciated!

From what I am seeing with what I have available, the monitor is doing a decent job of relaying the cameras LCD feed. I am using a Fuji GFX 50S with a Feelworld FW760.

I am really wondering if there is a camera system that relays a cleaner, brighter image on the LCD in low light.

Like you said, it may just be a matter of getting my hands on a few and trying them. My local rental has been pretty good in the past in allowing me to try things in store, without renting them out... That should be enough to establish what may be a better fit...

Just gotta get outta lockdown first!

 

[agfa100]

I shoot with a A7s mostly in B&W and to me the question becomes is it because the sensor that will go upto a iso of 409600 or is the lcd different that displays that high of a iso image? I normally like to walk around at night and take handheld pictures with my camera. I have to say I have not thought about it before you asked this question, I always thought that it was because the sensor would allow itself to be set so high and not the lcd. Questions, questions