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GF 35-70mm on GFX100s

A

anyone

Well-known member
Hi there,

I wondered if anyone uses the GF 35-70mm on the GFX100s? Are you happy with the image quality for landscape shots? Particularly the low weight is very appealing to me, as I'm frequently hiking and always trying to reduce weight (some of you might have spotted my UL medium format hiking kit endeavour... it's continuing!). I do shoot typically around f11.

Thank you!
 
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Greg Haag

Greg Haag

Well-known member
When I got my GFX100s it was my first lens, partly due to the lack of availability of GF lenses at the time. I personally think it is an excellent all around lens and great for landscape photography if it fits the focal range you need.
 
A

asnapper

New member
Very happy with the image quality, size & weight. It's very good value for money, especially when its on sale. Only downside I have so far discovered is occasional flare.
 
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nazdravanul

Member
Oh, and one more thing for the OP: on the GFX 100 sensor, f11 destroys sharpness and microcontrast (on all lenses), due to diffraction effects (small pixel size). I would rather do f8 and stack, than stop down past f8.
 
A

anyone

Well-known member
Thank you for your insights! That sounds very promising. I might not get the lens immediately, but instead will wait for the next Fuji promotion.

Concerning sharpness at f11: I'm curious how this enfolds in practice. On my 50R, I was completely happy shooting f11. I don't like to deal with too much post processing, so trading a little sharpness for better depth of field might be a trade off worth considering.
 
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PSS

Active member
the 35-70 really is a no brainer, especially for hiking. in terms of IQ and bang for the buck it was great at 1000$, even better with a deal. I also have the 45-100 which is really only slightly better (if you really peep) but for work I often need the constant f stop and the longer reach, it is a lot bigger an heavier. I have tried most of the gF primes and generally find the zooms to perform so well that I don't really have any use for the primes anymore. I had the 23 and the 20-35 performs just as well but has obvious advantages.
overall the 35-70 is an insane value and makes the 100s a true small point and shoot without any real IQ drawbacks.
I mostly shoot around f8, I have not had any problems stopping down more, not sure f11 will ruin a picture, diffraction is obviously real but it is something that is easily checked with your own files.
 
rdeloe

rdeloe

Well-known member
PSS said:
I mostly shoot around f8, I have not had any problems stopping down more, not sure f11 will ruin a picture, diffraction is obviously real but it is something that is easily checked with your own files.
Click to expand...
Same. I do not fear f/11. ;) In fact, I shoot at f/11, and even f/16, all the time. It doesn't matter how sharp the image is at f/5.6 if the parts I need in focus are not in focus.

I've also found that it's amazing how much of an appearance of sharpness one can create with a bit of effort in Lightroom.
 
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gurtch

Well-known member
I think it is a wonderful lens when I want to travel light. I have the 32~64, so it is redundant, but I got it during a promotion for $500! Close focusing is not it’s strong point though.
Dave
 
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PSS

Active member
ha! forgot about the 32-64 which was my go to lens with the 50s but honestly the 35-70 pretty much replaced it for me. maybe the 32-64 was a little better wide open? but again: size, weight, and even at 1000$ it was a better deal.
closer focus is definitely one reason I mostly use the 45-100 now unless I really want a much smaller kit.
after getting the 45-100 I let the 120 macro go, it more or less replaced it since I really wasn't able to do the actual macro work with the 120 anyway. (no 1:1 and pretty horrible with tubes, at least on the 100s)
hoping/waiting for the longer T/S macro, coming this? year
 
W

wallpaperviking

Member
gurtch said:
I think it is a wonderful lens when I want to travel light. I have the 32~64, so it is redundant, but I got it during a promotion for $500! Close focusing is not it’s strong point though.
Dave
Click to expand...
Are you talking about the 32-64mm close focus ability? The 35-70mm is better right?
 
H

hcubell

Well-known member
nazdravanul said:
Oh, and one more thing for the OP: on the GFX 100 sensor, f11 destroys sharpness and microcontrast (on all lenses), due to diffraction effects (small pixel size). I would rather do f8 and stack, than stop down past f8.
Click to expand...
I do not shoot with the Fuji GFX, but I have been amazed at how well I can deal with diffraction when shooting the Hasselblad X2D at f/11 and even f/16 by using the AI sharpening algorithms in Topaz Sharpen AI. I suggest you download a 30 day trial and see what you think. I turn off all sharpening in the raw converter and export a 16 bit TIFF to PS where I use Sharpen AI on a duplicate layer.
 
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vjbelle

Well-known member
hcubell said:
I do not shoot with the Fuji GFX, but I have been amazed at how well I can deal with diffraction when shooting the Hasselblad X2D at f/11 and even f/16 by using the AI sharpening algorithms in Topaz Sharpen AI. I suggest you download a 30 day trial and see what you think. I turn off all sharpening in the raw converter and export a 16 bit TIFF to PS where I use Sharpen AI on a duplicate layer.
Click to expand...
Sometimes the issue I see with Topaz SAI is that it will try to sharpen areas that really don't need it at all - areas that are supposed to be blurred. Of course can always mask and correct but when SAI does that I just switch to FM or just use SS (Smart Sharpen) which works extremely well. I am though, just as you, very impressed with what SAI can do under the right circumstances. I have been a long time user....

Victor B.
 
H

hcubell

Well-known member
vjbelle said:
Sometimes the issue I see with Topaz SAI is that it will try to sharpen areas that really don't need it at all - areas that are supposed to be blurred. Of course can always mask and correct but when SAI does that I just switch to FM or just use SS (Smart Sharpen) which works extremely well. I am though, just as you, very impressed with what SAI can do under the right circumstances. I have been a long time user....

Victor B.
Click to expand...
I was a big fan of Focus Magic, but switched over to Sharpen AI about two years ago. I started to use FM back in 2008 on the recommendation of the landscape photographer, Joseph Holmes, who has great technical skills and aesthetic judgment. I agree with you about the need to avoid sharpening areas that do not need sharpening. There is a masking function in Sharpen AI that allows you to auto or manually select areas that you do not want to sharpen. If you use Sharpen AI on a separate duplicate layer, you can also put on a layer mask and use the selection tools and brush in PS to confine the Sharpen AI layer to what you want to sharpen.
 
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PSS

Active member
vjbelle said:
Sometimes the issue I see with Topaz SAI is that it will try to sharpen areas that really don't need it at all - areas that are supposed to be blurred. Of course can always mask and correct but when SAI does that I just switch to FM or just use SS (Smart Sharpen) which works extremely well. I am though, just as you, very impressed with what SAI can do under the right circumstances. I have been a long time user....

Victor B.
Click to expand...
I agree about SAI, it can be amazing but I mostly cant use it for general sharpening because it makes out of focus areas look really strange. It just does not seem to understand that out of focus areas are supposed to be OOF. in general I still find smart sharpen to be the best overall. but SAI on a separate layer brushed in/out provides slightly better results on certain areas.
 
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