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Mount Fuji Active … 📸

biglouis

Well-known member
Knorp

Very impressed with that Laowa 20mm. Great compositions and I like the colour draw. What are the edges like?

I found the Laowa 17mm was very soft at the edges but if I stopped it down to f11 it sharpened very nicely.

Do you use the shift much on the 20mm?

Also, what is the 'c180' lens? Is that a Fuji lens?

Louis
 

Knorp

Well-known member
Knorp

Very impressed with that Laowa 20mm. Great compositions and I like the colour draw. What are the edges like?

I found the Laowa 17mm was very soft at the edges but if I stopped it down to f11 it sharpened very nicely.

Do you use the shift much on the 20mm?

Also, what is the 'c180' lens? Is that a Fuji lens?

Louis

Hi there, Louis.

I'd say the edges are fine and I haven't seen anything yet that troubled me. That said, most of the time I shoot at f8 or f11, sometimes at f5.6, but never at f4. I'm not sure if I can provide a good enough sample, but there are many images in this thread (4000x3000) that should you give a fair impression of the lens performance in the edges.
More of a concern is vignetting when you shift to the maximum 11mm (GF). In landscape mode depending on the background vignetting is or hardly noticeable or easily fixed. In portrait mode you have to cut the corners (crop) or again depending on the background clone out the corners.

Living in a 'flat' country most of my subjects rise far above my head, so yes I use the shift function quite a lot.
Of course I could use an UWA lens (f.i. the GF23), keep the camera level and then just crop the image back to 16:9 or so, but then you loose a serious amount of sensor real estate.
And I always use as finishing touch, so to speak, Keystone correction in post, because even on a tripod verticals get askew pretty quickly.

The 'c180' is the Canon EF 180mm f/3.5 L USM Macro lens a the 's135' is the Sigma ART 135mm f/1.8 DG HSM. Both used with a Fringer EF-GFX adapter.

Best regards.
 
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