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Thread: S28 + S43 OR R23 + R40 ?

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    Senior Member danlindberg's Avatar
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    S28 + S43 OR R23 + R40 ?

    Put price aside.
    Used on tech cam for sole purpose > architecture = need deadstraight lines.
    Used on cropped sensor 33x44.
    pushing movements as much as possible.

    As I see it, it is a colourcast vs. distortion dilemma. I reckon resolution, sharpness and microcontrast is give and take between them so it is more a question of how the software can handle the problems they appear to have.

    Yes, I realise there is a R28 and maybe I should compare that with the new S28, but since the image circle is the same on the R28 and R23, then I go for the wider. (still have 11mm rise/fall on a cropped sensor)

    I am thinking cropped sensor on purpose, to give me slightly more room for movements. That is more important to me then more mp. 6 micron 40 mp back is plenty for my needs.

    I would love to hear which way you would go and why?

    Thanks!
    Alpa FPS MAX TC | Alpagon 32Hr | Helvetar 75 | Schneider 120N | Leaf Aptus II 5 Leaf Credo 60 | www.danlindberg.com

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    Re: S28 + S43 OR R23 + R40 ?

    dan
    I am in a similar dilemma. My Schneider super Digitar 28 mm was great on the p65 plus and is pratically unusable on the 180 . My experience is 5mm of realistic movement before entering the zone of purple death.
    This lens got a theoretical image circle of 90mm which should allow for 13 mm of shift on the long side but the 180 backs don't behave the same way as previous backs
    I think it might be more sensible to compare the 28mm Schneider with the 32HR ( not the 23mm )Rodenstock since both lenses have a theoretical image circle of 90 mm . From what I hear is that the Rodenstock due to it's different retro focus design got more usable shift. Does anybody have tests on comparing effective shift between the R 32HR and the S 28mm?

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    Senior Member danlindberg's Avatar
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    Re: S28 + S43 OR R23 + R40 ?

    This is what I read and why I am thinking to use a 33x44 sensor. My main goal is to get clean, distortionfree images from a superwide for my interiors.

    The HR32 seems interesting but with the smaller sensor it simply is not wide enough and I do not want to rely on stitching.

    How easy/difficult is it to fix the complex distortion from the Rodenstock wides in post?
    Alpa FPS MAX TC | Alpagon 32Hr | Helvetar 75 | Schneider 120N | Leaf Aptus II 5 Leaf Credo 60 | www.danlindberg.com

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    Re: S28 + S43 OR R23 + R40 ?

    for interiors, i think that you will get less distortion with a P45+ and a R28HR than with a P40+ and the 23HR...

  5. #5
    Senior Member danlindberg's Avatar
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    Re: S28 + S43 OR R23 + R40 ?

    I am hoping that I can go for the IQ 140. The 1 to 3 frame per second live view is exciting and should it not be satisfactory in real life when implemented, then I do have a plan B with the smallish macbook air 11" with usb connection also in the field.

    The bigger brothers are of no consideration since they simply are too expensive, especially since I am jumping the train with nothing to start with...

    But that also means that I really need a 23, 24 or 28 to get the coverage of my interiors. The 32 is just not wide enough for my needs.

    How would the HR32 compare to the XL35?

    This question is interesting since I did have another lineup on my mind as well. That was getting the XL 24 and accept that there is no movements at all and use this in cramped spaces with careful composition only. And to complement with the XL 35 and the new XL 60, both with 90 image circle and hopefully the freedom of quite big movements on a 33x44 sensor!

    How does that sound?
    Alpa FPS MAX TC | Alpagon 32Hr | Helvetar 75 | Schneider 120N | Leaf Aptus II 5 Leaf Credo 60 | www.danlindberg.com

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