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Depends on the camera system. Mounted on a Hasselblad V or SWC there is no need for wake up. You connect the sync cable and use the shutter on the camera. When I mount my Phase One on my Linhof 612 digital slider I have to use the wake up function on my sync cable before I can exposure using the lens shutter mechanism.It is my understanding that Team Phase One backs also use the pin signal to "wake up" the back then the sync cord to trigger the capture. There are several reports of poor sync where the advice from Team Phase One was to ensure the pin was extending correctly and was bright metal, cleaning if necessary.
I decided to make it official so the DPS 4x4 magnifier now in B&S forum:
https://www.getdpi.com/forum/gear-f...dps-4x4-chimney-magnifier-cfv.html#post735371
Am I right in thinking it's only really good for cropped chips? I.e. A 'full frame' Dalsa CCD will not be able fully visible due to the limited 40x40 crop?Thanks, Graham. Do you know how much if any of the area outside the central 40x40 area is visible if you peer into the chimney from an angle?
John
IIRC You can peer down and see the entire VF frame. Unfortunately I no longer have a 503 body but I can try it at my dealers tomorrow.Thanks, Graham. Do you know how much if any of the area outside the central 40x40 area is visible if you peer into the chimney from an angle?
John
IIRC You can peer down and see the entire VF frame. Unfortunately I no longer have a 503 body but I can try it at my dealers tomorrow.
John since I know you, you're welcome to try it if interested as I have two (one new, one without a box that I bought for my CFV-16).
Your comprehensive update is appreciated, good advice all round.
The 60mm CF is infinity optimised so optimum sharpness may not be as easy to assess so close up, as I said way back in the thread brightness and focus "snap" are a compromise to bring together. The Phase One focus masks are translucent BTW so the outer field is stopped down but visible as a framing aid.
There are various size guides and templates out there and with little hunting a plastic sheet can be found, maybe a scratched ND filter? I have two, one official with Phase One logo and another a littler cruder in cut and edge finish that came at little money and does the job, just personally I prefer the translucent effect rather than etched lines and when I switch to a film back I can pop out the mask in a trice.Before ordering my screen I checked out the price of a VF mask from various places (I didn't get one with my back when buying it used,) and found them insane money. Made the decision to go with the Maxwell screen easier!
There are various size guides and templates out there and with little hunting a plastic sheet can be found, maybe a scratched ND filter? I have two, one official with Phase One logo and another a littler cruder in cut and edge finish that came at little money and does the job, just personally I prefer the translucent effect rather than etched lines and when I switch to a film back I can pop out the mask in a trice.
Ah, yes, but the images you will see each time after you have released the shutter, they will inspire you to go farther than you can imagine. I, too, look forward to your results! I know they will be sublime.:thumbup:I almost got a friend with a computerised router / cnc machine to make me a mask as you've mentioned, but I got a bit lazy! I might still do it for the times when the etching it difficult to see, eg in very dark environments.
As the quest for gear never concludes, despite my best intentions and efforts, I now focus my attention to small but strong ball heads for my tripod. My Linhof 3D Micro geared head isn't exactly fun to use with the 500cm for how I want to use it. It's perfect for use with my Techno, but the V is for looser shooting! Deeper and deeper I fall into debt...