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GFX InfraRED
- Thread starter Satrycon
- Start date
kdphotography
Well-known member
My Fuji GFX is at Kolari Vision right now getting converted to full spectrum, allowing me to shoot in IR simply by attaching the desired filter. I still need the ability to shoot in color, so the hot mirror filter with full spectrum conversion fills the bill. I'm opting for 590, 720, and 850nm. Unfortunately the AR coating is not an option on the GFX, but hopefully it is not an issue. I plan on using the 32-64 as my primary lens. Filters will be on the Xume magnetic filter system. Fingers-crossed---I'll get the camera back in a week or two.
A Phase One Achromatic just couldn't be justified :loco::grin:
Ken
A Phase One Achromatic just couldn't be justified :loco::grin:
Ken
GrahamWelland
Subscriber & Workshop Member
Err, this is Dante’s forum. Of course an Achromatic can be ‘justified’ :thumbs:
Hurry up with the GFX conversion as mine is waiting upon your feedback!
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this is the album i was looking at..very nice images
https://www.flickr.com/photos/joshhimes/sets/72157677731983338
https://www.flickr.com/photos/joshhimes/sets/72157677731983338
Sweet! Please share feedback once you’ve gotten it back and done some testing
:thumbs:
kdphotography
Well-known member
I find it promising that in the series of images shared by Satrycon, the photographer used a variety of lenses without apparent issues with hot spots. I'd rather use one dedicated lens---the Fuji 32-64, but if need be, it looks like the Fuji 45mm is also a contender. Kolari Vision told me that they had only converted one GFX before. My Sony was converted by Kolari and I was MUCH happier with the work Kolari did for me versus the two I had done with Life Pixel. The Sony A7r conversion is fantastic, but I really am looking forward to the Fuji GFX and the 4:3 format. No more 35mm 3:2 cameras in my stable. :thumbup:
ken
ken
Hi there, these are my images. I had Kolarivision convert a GFX for me back in May of 2018 and I'm very pleased with it. I can tell you that the native 45, 120 and 250 all work very well in IR, but there are also many wonderful lenses that can be adapted to the camera. The 23, 63 and 32-64 are not good performers in IR, as all have undesirable hotspots. I'd be happy to answer any questions you have...
Kolarivision does excellent work and Ilija is a great guy. They have converted 5 cameras for me, including the GFX. Unfortunately, the 32-64 does not work well in IR (see my post above), but there are numerous other lenses that you can adapt to the GFX for IR work. I'd be happy to answer any questions you come up with.
V
Vivek
Guest
kdphotography
Well-known member
Thank you! Then you are the *first* to convert that Kolari mentioned to me!
I'm bummed to hear about the 32-64mm (and 23mm) having hot spots as this really is a wonderful general purpose lens on the GFX. I will have to re-think my approach, purchase the 45mm and re-purchase the 120mm (yes, selling an item and then re-purchasing the same item later is a virtue in Dante's realm :loco
.Do you know about how the Fuji 110mm performs in IR?
Ken
Thank you! Then you are the *first* to convert that Kolari mentioned to me!
I'm bummed to hear about the 32-64mm (and 23mm) having hot spots as this really is a wonderful general purpose lens on the GFX. I will have to re-think my approach, purchase the 45mm and re-purchase the 120mm (yes, selling an item and then re-purchasing the same item later is a virtue in Dante's realm :loco
Do you know about how the Fuji 110mm performs in IR?
Ken
The 45 is an easy call, as it's an excellent performer in both IR and visible light. It's also (relatively) small and light. I have not tested the 110. I can tell you that the 120 is flawless in IR and the stabilization makes IR hand-held shots possible with my camera...same with the 250. I do think the 250 has 1-2 extra stops of stabilization over the 120 though.
The only downside to my GFX conversion is that it's the first of my converted cameras (I think there have been 12 over the years) that I can't easily shoot hand-held. My GFX has an 850 filter, which is part of the reason for the slower shutter speeds, but I have had several other 850 cameras that were easy to use hand-held. Not a deal breaker for me though, as I always work with a tripod when possible.
kdphotography
Well-known member
My Fuji GFX is getting converted to Full Spectrum, allowing me to shoot in color using a hot mirror filter, and in IR by using IR filters in various wavelengths, 590, 720, 850, etc.
I wonder if the issue of problematic hot spots is of the same degree for a FS conversion or a IR conversion, e.g., 850nm. ?
If the Fuji GF 32-64 is problematic with hot spots when shooting IR, is it still usable when shooting in "color" using the hot mirror filter---or would the hot spots persist? :loco:
My thoughts are the Fuji 45mm looks to be a good lens add----and it might soften the blow if I could at least continue to use the 32-64 just for shooting in color....
I can hold off on longer focals such as the 120mm, though I think I might prefer the 110mm, if I knew it would be free of hot spot issues....
I appreciate your input Josh!
ken
I wonder if the issue of problematic hot spots is of the same degree for a FS conversion or a IR conversion, e.g., 850nm. ?
If the Fuji GF 32-64 is problematic with hot spots when shooting IR, is it still usable when shooting in "color" using the hot mirror filter---or would the hot spots persist? :loco:
My thoughts are the Fuji 45mm looks to be a good lens add----and it might soften the blow if I could at least continue to use the 32-64 just for shooting in color....
I can hold off on longer focals such as the 120mm, though I think I might prefer the 110mm, if I knew it would be free of hot spot issues....
I appreciate your input Josh!
ken
In my experience, hot spot problems are almost always a function of the lens and how it performs in the IR spectrum, and these issues are more problematic at the longer wavelengths (i.e. hotspots are worse at 850 than at 720, etc). I suspect that you will not see any hot spot issues with the 32-64 using the hot mirror filter, and would only start to see problems when you use the IR filters. I recall that the longer end of the zoom performed better in IR, so it may turn out that you see little or no problems using the 590 and 720 filters and only the 850 filter is problematic, and then only at the wide end of the zoom. If you already own the zoom, you should definitely do some testing with the converted camera before you buy the 45, as the 32-64 may be usable in IR with only a slight compromise at the wide end.
I don't blame you for wanting to hold off on the longer lenses...both the 110 and 120 are huge and expensive. If you want a great longer lens at a reasonable cost, pick up an old SMC Pentax-A 645 150mm F3.5. It's an excellent performer in IR and is small and light. I leave it attached to a Kipon P645 to GFX adapter and that combo is about half the size of the 120 macro. You should be able to find one for $200.
Vivek is the UV + IR "Master", and i think he would have a lot of great tips
hotspots are usually lens related issues
https://www.getdpi.com/forum/the-alternative-forum/50573-capturing-infrared-14.html
more data
Ultraviolet Photography
and other lenses details
IR and Lenses | DPanswers
hotspots are usually lens related issues
https://www.getdpi.com/forum/the-alternative-forum/50573-capturing-infrared-14.html
more data
Ultraviolet Photography
and other lenses details
IR and Lenses | DPanswers
V
Vivek
Guest
I have one useful tip on IR for all.
If you have dedicated IR set up ((I recommend you keep one like a converted NEX camera even if you would not use it for your regular work) turn it towards your IR gear.
In other words, photograph your infrared gear in infrared. This includes, filters, adapters, lens hoods, lenses, adapters, etc.
For example, this how my Sony RX1 looks in visible.
Untitled by Vivek Iyer, on Flickr
In infrared.
Untitled by Vivek Iyer, on Flickr
It helped me sort out the lens hood and the front”decorating ring” on the lens. It was an infrared mirror before I (IR) light proofed it.
If you have dedicated IR set up ((I recommend you keep one like a converted NEX camera even if you would not use it for your regular work) turn it towards your IR gear.
In other words, photograph your infrared gear in infrared. This includes, filters, adapters, lens hoods, lenses, adapters, etc.
For example, this how my Sony RX1 looks in visible.
Untitled by Vivek Iyer, on FlickrIn infrared.
Untitled by Vivek Iyer, on FlickrIt helped me sort out the lens hood and the front”decorating ring” on the lens. It was an infrared mirror before I (IR) light proofed it.
I tried to reply to this last night, but something must have went wrong, as it appears to have vanished.
In my experience, hot spot issues are almost always a function of the lens and its performance in the IR spectrum. Zooms are usually more prone to problems, as they have more elements and are much more complicated in design. If modern lenses work well in IR, it's usually not by design, but just a coincidence...and it seems that zooms are less likely to "accidentally" work. Sometimes you see field curvature problems manifest themselves in IR, especially in wide lenses, or at the wide end of zooms. These problems are usually more evident with a higher cutoff, i.e. worse at 850 than at 720, etc.
With that said, I suspect you will see no problems using the 32-64 with a hot mirror filter. I recall from my testing of the lens that most of the IR hot spot issues were on the wide end and the long end was actually not too bad. I didn't notice any field curvature or softness, just hot spots at the wide end. If you already own the lens, I would definitely test it with your converted camera before you buy the 45. You may find that the hot spots only manifest with the 850 filter and that the 720/590 filters do not cause problems, especially at the long end.
I don't blame you for wanting to hold off on the longer lenses. Both the 110 & 120 are huge and expensive. If you want a great longer lens for cheap, look for an old SMC Pentax-A 645 150mm F3.5. It is an excellent performer in IR and is very small and light. I have one that stays attached to a Kipon P645 to GFX adapter, and that combo is about half the size of the 120 macro. You should be able to find one for $200 and the P645 to GFX adapter is $170 at Adorama.
Don Libby
Well-known member
If you can hold off until April then I'll have all the lenses (except the 110) for you to try while we're in Tahoe. 23, 45, 32-64 (which you already have) 120, 250 and the 100-200 should be with me by then...
kdphotography
Well-known member
Thanks Josh. This was my thinking as well. It's the IR that causes problems, so the 32-64 should be fine with the Hot Mirror, but definitely will need to test it with all the filters. I'd place bets that if the AR option for the GFX was available from Kolari, the difficulties with the hot spots might be a non-issue. The AR option is available for other cameras, and it is a worthwhile addition.
I have the Canon 24mm TSE II and adapter that I can use on the wide end. The GF 45mm will probably be a good standard wide addition. And the SMC Pentax-A 645 150mm F3.5 you suggest looks to be a good option for the longer focals. If the GFX were more of my main camera body, I'd opt for the GF110 (assuming good for IR) or the GF120.
Lots to test and try...
I have the Canon 24mm TSE II and adapter that I can use on the wide end. The GF 45mm will probably be a good standard wide addition. And the SMC Pentax-A 645 150mm F3.5 you suggest looks to be a good option for the longer focals. If the GFX were more of my main camera body, I'd opt for the GF110 (assuming good for IR) or the GF120.
Lots to test and try...
kdphotography
Well-known member
I already have the GF23 and will be selling it. I really don't want to expand my GFX system as the Phase/Cambo are my system of choice, with the FS/IR conversion just to add some variety and spice
Maybe Graham is right----that Phase IQ3/4 Achromatic sure does make sense now :ROTFL:
Don Libby
Well-known member
Ken, I just checked with KEH and see they have a lens rated Ex with caps and case https://www.keh.com/shop/pentax-150...MI6My7ldzy3wIV1x-tBh2K3wymEAQYASABEgLlXPD_BwE