4x5 Photography 101 - where to begin?

[med]

Good luck and enjoy the journey! Slow and deliberate is the way with large format. There is a lot to learn, and you’ll probably make some mistakes, but boy is it ever rewarding.

Make sure you’re sitting down the first time you sit down at a light table to look at your results, especially if you’re shooting transparency film!

 

[MartinN]

The good news is that the basics are pretty easy, to get a useable negative without mistakes. Doing extensive perspective correction is the difficult part in my opinions. And black and white film is affordable. It does not have to be overly complicated.

 

[rdeloe]

You'll have a lot of fun Dave. Enjoy!

A few other random thoughts for motivation:

• Unlike in other kinds of photography, you don't have to fuss about lenses. All the lenses from the main lines are fine. Pick a focal length you like, and don't worry about MTF charts. I've used Schneider-Kreuznach, Nikon, Rodenstock and Fuji -- all terrific. Best value is probably Fujinon-W. If you like a slightly wider angle of view, the Fujinon-W 125mm f/5.6 is fantastic: small, light, very sharp, and not very expensive.
• Are you developing your own film? You should ! Kodak HC-110 is an economical and easy to use general purpose black and white developer. It lasts forever and you can mix it from the syrup using a syringe. Easy as can be.
• By the time of my last return visit to large format, my darkroom was long gone. I ended up doing everything over the sink in my basement using a new kind of daylight tank: Stearman SP-445. It was excellent and economical. Loading it in a change bag was fairly easy, and once loaded it worked a treat.
• Film is very personal and a subject of endless debate and fussing. If you're coming from digital and like a cleaner, modern look, I can't rave enough about Kodak T-MAX 400. I used to use Ilford, which is nice film too. But T-MAX 400 was a level up in my view: easy to use, relatively fast, modern grain structure.

What are you planning to do with the film once it's developed? Are you wet printing or scanning? Scanning large format is a "whole 'nother thing". There are endless, fierce debates over at the Large Format Photography Forum on the best approach. For quick and easy, you cannot beat a simple setup for "camera scanning". I've scanned 4x5 with an excellent flatbed, and with camera scanning. I think camera scanning wins on most fronts. If you're even slightly handy, you can easily build a simple system like this: https://www.largeformatphotography....era-scanning-on-the-cheap-an-example-approach I did it with an APS-C camera; it will be even easier and faster with a larger sensor. You probably already have everything you need except the scanning supplies.

 

[MartinN]

For developing, I recommend the MOD54 with Paterson tank. Some have reported difficulties, but I think it can’t be compared with the difficulty of Jobo sheet film spirales. However, it needs a full litre for 6 sheets, but with one shot Rodinal or HC-110 it is not expensive. For color I would wish a Jobo.

 

[MartinN]

You probably can’t go anywhere with listening to the different opinions. The solution is to successfully load a 4x5 cassette with two sheets and just go and expose those two. Not more or less.

 

[anyone]

This is great since I would have to sell my H5 system to even get started purchasing my own. .

If you are in no hurry, I think you will be able to source your own 4x5" camera for very little money if you do not go for highest-end-top-dollar-gear. Important is just to know what you want to shoot in order to avoid costly iterations (wish I would have done that exercise when I ventured into large format cameras). Trying things with your friends' camera seems a very good idea indeed.

Once you know what you want to shoot: If you are seeking most flexibility in movements, and weight is no issue - there are a lot of cheap monorails out there. Excellent for example for macro work, but bulky and heavy. Are you more into landscape and do you want to bring your camera with you in a backpack? Most likely a field camera would work for you. The options mentioned in this thread that combine both are in the highest-end-top-dollar-gear category.

The US has a more lively 4x5" second hand market compared to Europe. I actually tend to think that 4x5" is the cheapest way nowadays to get absolutely stunning image quality. Having said that, while the camera and (again not highest-end) lenses are cheap, one needs to also take the necessary accessories into account: loupe, dark cloth (your jacket might work as well), film holders, development tank, daylight changing bag, scanning possibility, possibly a light meter (although your digital camera can help with that).

 

[dave.gt]

My apologies… just getting back to this, we’ve been busy with doctors and therapies all day. Exhausting.

All great things to consider in depth. Actually, I have been doing MF landscapes for a very long time and some macro. But travel has been impossible the last few years. So my choice of genre and motifs have been quite limited and I would like a change. Landscapes and long exposures have been my favorites.

What catches my eye when I review LF images online? Portraits. People photography for me has been limited to family pretty much and I like the idea of creating/crafting more unique black and white images of family members that I can share with them for their future enjoyment. What better gift for someone at my age, right?

Not typical portraits mind you but truly unique images, and I think finding my way in crafting something unique will be the most enjoyable part of it all.

So, yes, working with my friend and his field camera to get a few initial images done will tell me a lot.

Spring is starting and I can’t think of a better time to begin this journey!

In the meantime, I will be shooting more with my film backs, too.

 

[dave.gt]

Fellow member here and my good friend, Gary (bensonga) sent me a nice video link on macro work with a LF camera. Of course, the guy in the video made it look easy!

In real life, many mistakes and creative profanity are common here. LOL

 

[MartinN]

There a few things to master first:
To load a sheet film holder without mistakes
To focus, and expose a sheet without mistakes
Only practice and deliberate double checks will give mastery.

 

[med]

There a few things to master first:
To load a sheet film holder without mistakes
To focus, and expose a sheet without mistakes
Only practice and deliberate double checks will give mastery.

With regards to the first item to master, I found it helpful to load an already exposed or "throw away" sheet of film into a holder in the light with eyes open to see what was going on, then try a few times with my eyes closed to get used to everything you need to feel during the process while you can still cheat if necessary, and THEN load some real film in the dark.

Another challenge when starting out that they don't write about in the books is where you're supposed to put your first exposed negatives if you don't have any empty film boxes to put them into, or you're not doing your own developing. Since you have a friend who shoots 4x5 you can probably acquire one, but if not, ask your lab if they have any, or ask if you can just bring them the holders with exposed film in them until you have some empty boxes to use.

 

[dave.gt]

With regards to the first item to master, I found it helpful to load an already exposed or "throw away" sheet of film into a holder in the light with eyes open to see what was going on, then try a few times with my eyes closed to get used to everything you need to feel during the process while you can still cheat if necessary, and THEN load some real film in the dark.

Another challenge when starting out that they don't write about in the books is where you're supposed to put your first exposed negatives if you don't have any empty film boxes to put them into, or you're not doing your own developing. Since you have a friend who shoots 4x5 you can probably acquire one, but if not, ask your lab if they have any, or ask if you can just bring them the holders with exposed film in them until you have some empty boxes to use.

Boxes! I had not even thought that far ahead, thanks so much!!

 

[MartinN]

It’s so much easier to use my toilet darkroom compared to the sweaty and cramped changing bag. I used sticky rubber around the door to seal out light. The thing is to sit 5 minutes in the dark toilet and check if you can see any leaks. Btw I have air exchange, no suffocation!

 

[MartinN]

Thick black opaque plastic bags are the lightsealing thing in modern film boxes. Ask your friend to save some for you.
You can put the exposed films in the bag and fold and tape it, and then enclose it in the box.

 

[Willieboy]

If you want to keep the dollars down so you get into this without spending a fortune check out the older Calumet/Orbit 4x5 monorail cameras. Can often be found with a lens for under $300. A half dozen film holders, light meter, tripod and cable release and you are ready to go. Some of this you will most likely have already. Darkcloth is simple or as expensive as you want to go.

The Calumet is lightweight, works well and inexpensive. Has a good amount of movements and control. If you find you really enjoy this you can easily move to newer or higher priced/featured bodies.

Darkroom to start - trays for processing. Easy way it pyrex baking dishes from yard sales. Clothes pins on a line for drying the negatives.

Start with a known quality film. Doing expired and cheap crap is counterproductive. Go with quality and learn to use it. One film for at least a year - and one basic developer. If you change around you don't learn what the film will really do. I like Ilford FP4+ - others like something else. No matter what you choose some will say Great and others 'waste of time'. Use whatever and work with it. Nearly any combination is capable of excellent results if you learn its characteristics. Off the shelf chemistry is easiest for many - avoid a lot of experimentation until you know one combination well. Then change only if you can see an actual difference in finished prints.

If you don't have a 4x5 enlarger you can make contact prints. Simple to do and high quality if you do it right. Looking for an enlarger is not hard - last one I got was "can you get this thing out of our basement"? Free, and carry it upstairs to my pickup - then donated to a local school with a photo program. Could easily have kept it - beautiful condition - but I did not need it. Just did not want to see it trashed. The School still uses it - after more than a decade now.

Large Format is not difficult. Get into a rhythm and flow with your work habits. Same thing every time, gear same place in the camera bag. Eliminating variables will give you a lot more time to concentrate on creativity and composition rather than the equipment.

 

[tribal-warrior]

Calumet monorails are certainly versatile with regards to movements. Ive had a bit of a play with one myself briefly. Though aren't there 'wide angle', 'standard lens' and 'telephoto lens' versions of these cameras? Correct me if I'm wrong. If that is the case, each version might be a bit restrictive with it's lens options.

 

[dave.gt]

Update: I am inching in the 4x5 direction. My friend will be getting a call from me soon for a short session with his Wista.

 

[MartinN]

There is not so much ’unsurmountable’ with 4x5, just a lot to learn and review until second nature. Try to get Fomapan sheet film or if it branded Arista in US. Fomapan 100 is really great and cheap.

 

[MartinN]

Freestylephoto biz has both ’Arista’ and Fomapan. That’s the way to fill an accessory freezer.

 

[MartinN]

FP4+ is competitive in US it seems, so that can be a good film, not so much for me, because a lot more expensive than Fomapan.

 

[anyone]

Update: I am inching in the 4x5 direction. My friend will be getting a call from me soon for a short session with his Wista.

Curious how you will like it! It's a very slow and methodical way of working which can be very satisfying.

I like and use FP4+ for many projects. I guess it's personal taste in the end.
As I understood you shot a lot of film lately, so probably there is already a favourite from the 35mm world?