k-hawinkler
Well-known member
Many thanks Thorkil.
Yep, the GF23 for sure is a gem! :thumbup:
As are the GF120 and GF250. :thumbs:
Here is another image with the GF23.
Fuji GFX 50S • GF23mmF4 R LM WR • ISO 100 • f/5 • 1/150 s • Handheld
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Mount Fuji Active … 📸
- Thread starter Knorp
- Start date
Yep, the GF23 for sure is a gem! :thumbup:
As are the GF120 and GF250. :thumbs:
Here is another image with the GF23.
Fuji GFX 50S • GF23mmF4 R LM WR • ISO 100 • f/5 • 1/150 s • Handheld
Thank you both K-H and Peter.
Peter I guess if everybody in the streetshot should be in focuszone, one has to stop down to about f. 11-16 ?, so perhaps 2-3 stops further down compared to a 35mm camera? or is it so?
If I should go that way with a 50R, then just a 21 and a 45 it should be, I guess, to be "handy", even though the 21mm ain't that handy
Best thorkil
Peter I guess if everybody in the streetshot should be in focuszone, one has to stop down to about f. 11-16 ?, so perhaps 2-3 stops further down compared to a 35mm camera? or is it so?
If I should go that way with a 50R, then just a 21 and a 45 it should be, I guess, to be "handy", even though the 21mm ain't that handy
Best thorkil
PeterA
Well-known member
Hi Thorkil
As I am sure you understand DOF as far as acceptable focus is concerned is related amongst other things to distance from subject- so the further away one is from the focused object the more subjects are in acceptable focus and vica versa ...
With regards the shot you mention at f16 was probably an accident on my part as I was learning to switch from lens in C / A and aperture ring mode so I probably didn't notice that I probably used the scroll wheel and inadvertantly narrowed aperture to f16....given the subject matter and my distance from them about 10-15 meters from memory - I would say that f4-5.6 would have also seen acceptable levels of in focus achieved - so I think in general terms if you are shooting close - yes your aperture is going to have to increae by 1-2 stops - but I am mostly shooting XPan crop in camera and what I see through my viewfinder ( as explained above) allows me to judge acceptable focus or not very easilly...
for illustrative purposes here is a shot made from a distance to subject ( sunbather) of around 50 meters away and all the people in the shot are 5- 30 meters from her and they are all in good focus even at f4 may I say that i can zoom in 2-300% and details would astound you given how far away I was from subject matter such is resolution of the camera...at f4 | 60mm | 1/4000th sec | ISO 200
hope this answers your question or to put it another way - yes the camera is eminently suitable for hand held snap shots.... -
I would start with the 45mm and the R it is an outstanding lens and you might be surprised that your next lens might be the 110 - eminently handholdable and useful for street shooting and relatively close focusing as well....I'll post some 110/2 shots wide open in the next day or so...Pete
iiiNelson
Well-known member
You don’t have to use the Fuji exclusive version of Capture One if you own the Pro version. That’s for people that’ll only process Fuji files similar to the Capture One Sony version released alongside Capture One 8. If you own Pro you can process any file type supported. There was an update with 11.3 that added support for additional cameras (along with the GFX and XT3).
iiiNelson
Well-known member
Well it wasn’t just about being Full frame for me and I work with digital and film systems still. For me it’s about getting to the desired end result faster as I’ve gotten more busy over the last year or so with family, work, and school commitments. I’m very happy with the output I can get from Sony but often it takes longer if I have to process and creatively crop to aspect ratios more interesting than 3:2 for portraits or creative happy snaps. 3:2 is fine for most things I admit but there are times where you just want a more unique perspective to keep the creative juices flowing. One way is to have more interesting subjects and another way for me isnthe aforementioned unique perspective of the familiar.
The big takeaway is that I found Fuji X to be good enough for travel and most things (with the caveat that I didn’t love any of the current 35 or 50 equivalent options one one reason or another but feel for now they’d do). With the GFX I love the in camera cropping aspect ratios amongst other things and I love that I can just simply swap my Sony Godox trigger with a Fuji one and keep on rolling with my travel lights. Priolite also makes a Fuji trigger as well so I could keep that lighting too if/when I needed more power (they’re 1000w per light). It’s the dilemma I faced earlier this year and I preferred the XH1 body style over the XT3 but maybe I’ll revisit once the XH2 is announced and we have the GFX100 on the market as well probably... provided Sony doesn’t add more in body crop options on the photo side (ironically you can get a 2.35:1, 2.39:1, or 2.40:1 crop in video mode which would equate to about the same crop as Xpan mode).
Clearly I really like what Sony is doing and I really like the lenses I own and a few I’ve rented (like the 70-200 GM or the 100 STF GM). Things that I would also like that would really make me stop looking at other systems are slightly larger Sony body (for say the next generation A9’s at least), further improved JPEG engine (for when needed), and user customized aspect ratios (this should be able to be done through the app or in camera) but that’s another topic.
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Hi Pete, thanks, it was only because MF (or almost MF) is rumored to demand a heavy stopping down to get sufficient DOF. But perhaps that is not an alarming issue.Hi Thorkil
As I am sure you understand DOF as far as acceptable focus is concerned is related amongst other things to distance from subject- so the further away one is from the focused object the more subjects are in acceptable focus and vica versa ...
With regards the shot you mention at f16 was probably an accident on my part as I was learning to switch from lens in C / A and aperture ring mode so I probably didn't notice that I probably used the scroll wheel and inadvertantly narrowed aperture to f16....given the subject matter and my distance from them about 10-15 meters from memory - I would say that f4-5.6 would have also seen acceptable levels of in focus achieved - so I think in general terms if you are shooting close - yes your aperture is going to have to increae by 1-2 stops - but I am mostly shooting XPan crop in camera and what I see through my viewfinder ( as explained above) allows me to judge acceptable focus or not very easilly...
for illustrative purposes here is a shot made from a distance to subject ( sunbather) of around 50 meters away and all the people in the shot are 5- 30 meters from her and they are all in good focus even at f4 may I say that i can zoom in 2-300% and details would astound you given how far away I was from subject matter such is resolution of the camera...at f4 | 60mm | 1/4000th sec | ISO 200
hope this answers your question or to put it another way - yes the camera is eminently suitable for hand held snap shots.... -
Pete
Wide lenses lenses have grown upon me since I was young (or almost), and of financial reasons (if I jump at all) I will have to be satiesfied with "just" to have a 21 and 45 and then the rest must be taken with the Nikon Df or Z7/6 or the X-T2 for the foreseen-time-being
, but one never know how things develop.. Kr thorkil
Yes I've got the Pro11.3, and you are right, they tell that it supports the GFX and T3, so it seems I dont have to have 2 versions....if...
KR
iiiNelson
Well-known member
Yeah Capture One Fuji is just a lower cost option for those that’ll only process Fuji files. Since you have Pro you’re covered for every camera supported with all the features that come along with the Pro version.Yes I've got the Pro11.3, and you are right, they tell that it supports the GFX and T3, so it seems I dont have to have 2 versions....if...
KR
Knorp
Well-known member
The 250/4 really is spectacular, you won't be disappointed, but the GFX system is of course no substitute for your A9 and 100-400/4.5-5.6 (or 400/2.8) or terms of speed (AF and FPS).
But I'm really hoping you give it a serious try on the hummingbirds or any other critters in your garden ... :angel:
The 32-64/4 zoom is very good, surprisingly good actually, perhaps a little bulky as a walk-around lens, but I still find it very versatile and therefor my verdict is: :thumbs:
Obviously the 63/2.8 or 45/2.8 are better suited as walk-around lens, but I think the new 50/3.5 with LM (!) will be king.
Brgds.
Knorp
Well-known member
Hi Thorkil,
I'm not sure I quite understand what you're trying to ask here.
But Capture One Pro v11.3 to my knowledge 'fully' supports all current Fuji GF lenses.
Krgds
k-hawinkler
Well-known member
PeterA
Well-known member
Hi KH
I am happy with the 23/zoom and 110/2 - I was testing the 120 but opted for the 110/2 for that little bit of extra shallower DOF when I want it. I will give the 250 a serious consideration but I dont seem to have much use for this focal length atm.
k-hawinkler
Well-known member
Thanks again Peter.
To extract the full potential of the 250 with the 50S might be a challenge. AF might not be responsive enough for dynamic situations. :facesmack:
One can hope that that will change with the 100S, presuming it will have a faster sensor readout time than the one of ¼ s of the 50S as measured by Jim Kasson! IBIS should also help. But most encouraging is the inclusion of PDAF in the 100S. :thumbs:
k-hawinkler
Well-known member
...
| gfx 50s | sigma 135/1.8 |
Terrific detail Bart. Manual focusing? :grin:
Knorp
Well-known member
AF with the Kipon 'EF-GFX AF' adapter for my Sigma EF-mount (Canon) lenses.
The Sigma A 135/1.8 covers the GFX sensor fine, but not so the Sigma A 20/1.4
