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Actually in practice this isn't as bad as you'd think --- I use my 110F Planar on my Mamiya wide open most of the time anywayright. and you have to stop down manually. very cool technology
Yes, I mean the shutterless Hasselblad F (German Zeiss) lenses for the 2000/200 series Hassy bodies; to clarify these were F versions and NOT FE versions.oh, believe me, i had more than my fare share of stop-down metering. these are bells and whistles that are not for commercial work where there is no room for a fuck-up.
50F and 150F, you mean, shutterless v lenses? that's interesting... what do you mean by "blew away"? it is not sharpness that i am concerned about
The genius from Vancouver goes by the name Conurus and you can find postings from him on the Fred Miranda forum at the alternative image thread on the alternative image forum. I'll try to get more precise information to contact him but those who have bought the converted Contax 24-85N seem to be very happymechanical coupling is not possible. so, the only hope is a series of dedicated adapters that remap electronic contacts for full compatibility with the body. in this case even AF can be preserved. i am sure you've heard of this genius from vancouver who adapts contax n lenses on eos platform who came up with a technology that preserves all auto functions except AF bracketing (like you ever need it).
RE: some posts on page 1:
Hoods for the 110mm can be acquired used for $50. It also fits the 150, 180 and 250 IIRC. Given the the fact they are ABS plastic, that's even a stretch price-wise.
Again, these were the Hassy F lenses, NO SHUTTERS IN THE F SERIES! The CF, CFi, are different, having shutters in them. The 50 F is an f2.8 lens and the 150 F is an f3.5 lens.Jack re: the Hasselblad 50mm you tested: was it the 2.8, older F4 or the new F4 FLE? The FLE's MTF looks hellishly good.
Yes, I mean the shutterless Hasselblad F (German Zeiss) lenses for the 2000/200 series Hassy bodies; to clarify these were F versions and NOT FE versions.
By blew away, I mean firstly the Hassy glass were NOTABLY softer in resolution than the comparable Mamiya glass. So soft wide open they had no point of focus -- but on the upside they did have great bokeh everywhere in the image The 150's were usably sharp by about f4.5, but never, ever got "crisp," though you could make okay images from f5.6 up. The 50 didn't even get usably sharp until f8(!) By contrast, my 110 F is crisp wide open at f2 AND has great bokeh; it's in a totally different league than the 50 and 150.
Cheers,
b) ... Sinar (the latter should have been a give away but...) were discussing the Rollei 110 not the Hassy/Zeiss 110 - different lens, different hood naturally.
Thierry - that it is, that it is. However, I'm not certain that the HFT & T* coatings are IDENTICAL -for whatever that's worth in real life.
Should add that the H/Z 110/2 F on my 1Ds2 draws a gorgeous pic. Is across much, much sharper wide open than the MTFs would have you believe. The selective focus ability is damn near perfect - just enough focus throw or pitch to let you cherry pick the plane of focus but not so much that you're twisting the bloody lens all day going from MFD to infinity. Images also tend to really 'pop' into focus in the viewfinder. Great color, smooth bokeh.
However, much like the Zeiss 100 ZF it does tend to produce CA in some backlit out-of-focus high contrast areas. Am looking for a decent way to play with it, but I also tend to prefer B&W so it's real world relevance to me is minor. On a CCD MFDB sans AA filter this sucker would really sing. Reminds me, need to buy that lottery ticket... ;>