LouisB:What do you think of the 100-300 lens, is this the telephoto to get?The 20/1.7 and my Leica 45/2.8 produce fantastic results from such a portable camera. I can also turn in very good birding pictures using the 100-300.
LouisB
Thanks
Po
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LouisB:What do you think of the 100-300 lens, is this the telephoto to get?The 20/1.7 and my Leica 45/2.8 produce fantastic results from such a portable camera. I can also turn in very good birding pictures using the 100-300.
LouisB
There have been some arguments for and against in the forum but I come down on the side of (a) it is relatively inexpensive for this type of long telephoto, (b) it benefits from being very light and quite short when the hood is reversed - I carry it quite happily in my camera bag, so you will take it with you, (c) it is autofocus - I mention this because you can buy any number of optically better manual lenses and fit them with adaptors to your m43rds camera but when you are trying to get a 'bird on the run' I prefer the aid of autofocus. And I did I also mention the stabilisation?LouisB:What do you think of the 100-300 lens, is this the telephoto to get?
Thanks
Po
It's probably my problem, but I only follow the Sony forum over here :facesmack:Does this thread really need to be in two forums? Can't it be combined?
Thanks Klaus, this sounds interesting - I'll give it a go :thumbs:DR and how i optimized it within my Pen:
All in M- Mode, RAW only
Picture Mode MUTED and in addition
Contrast set to -2
Saturation to -2
Highlight warning set to 245
Histogram off ( it is only valid for JPG !! )
Now i set thru INFO Button for HIGHLIGHT Warning with that red blinkies.
I now do NOT meter for zeroing but for vanishing red blinkies !!!
What do i get : Perfect smooth RAWs with wonderful skintones....No Burned Highlights anymore and still structure in the darks.
Rawfa, if you still have your PEN, go and try it.
Regards
Klaus
It's really not that much larger - the height of the sensor is only a couple mm difference - really not significant - most of the difference is in the length. I just don't that's a good enough excuse for the lesser quality of the Pana/Oly sensors; I think the point is that Sony make killer sensors and Panasonic don't (yet - but the OMD sensor does sound promising).Rafa, because the NEX sensor is larger than the M 4/3, it performs better, all other things being equal. Hence, better noise and high ISO and DR..
So what's with the tiny Pentax limited lenses then? Most of these are actually for full frame, not just for APSc . . . and how about the Leica M lenses - which are all for a full frame sensor, and are much smaller than the Sony lenses.And because it is larger, lenses need to be larger as well in order to produce a larger image circle.
Thank you TerryDoes this thread really need to be in two forums? Can't it be combined?
The Sony sensor as 15.5mm tall - the m43 is 13mm tall. I'm sorry - this is not a radically different sensor size - the shorter m4.3 sensor makes it seem that way. This is not a difference which is going to be significant in sensor results.1) If shooting RAW you're mostly (95%) at the mercy of the sensor size and pixel density for ISO performance and DR range. There is no magic hokus-pokus voo-doo that will make a sensor of size/density X perform like one of Y. And companies will even distribute false data to try and get you to believe that there is. So µ4/3 was then what it is now plus the density increase. Period. Except for actual blunders like Panasonic's line pattern noise in high ISO darks this is true and you can bank on it when making decisions.
Klaus,DR and how i optimized it within my Pen:
All in M- Mode, RAW only
Picture Mode MUTED and in addition
Contrast set to -2
Saturation to -2
Highlight warning set to 245
Histogram off ( it is only valid for JPG !! )
Now i set thru INFO Button for HIGHLIGHT Warning with that red blinkies.
I now do NOT meter for zeroing but for vanishing red blinkies !!!
HI JonasKlaus,
That sounds like a variation of earlier methods we all have read about how to expose to the right. Just for curiosity; What is your colour temperature setting and in what light conditions does this method work the best for you? And, The Histogram is, as you say, for the actual JPG setting only, then I would guess the Highlight warning also is valid for the actual JPG setting only?
I guess I'm missing something?
I thought that the contrast and saturation settings only applied to jpgs as well?DR and how i optimized it within my Pen:
All in M- Mode, RAW only
Picture Mode MUTED and in addition
Contrast set to -2
Saturation to -2
I think what he is saying is that the histogram and the information on the screen is all from the jpeg thumbnail so the settings neutralize what that looks like in the image review and gives you a better idea of how your RAW file will behave.I thought that the contrast and saturation settings only applied to jpgs as well?
But I guess I'm wrong - it's interesting news though.
all the best
Well, okay, but he says he switches off the histogram because it only relates to jpgs?I think what he is saying is that the histogram and the information on the screen is all from the jpeg thumbnail so the settings neutralize what that looks like in the image review and gives you a better idea of how your RAW file will behave.
I think what he is saying is that the histogram and the information on the screen is all from the jpeg thumbnail so the settings neutralize what that looks like in the image review and gives you a better idea of how your RAW file will behave.