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Filters for MF photography

Vinyl_TO

Active member
Hi everyone,

I’m interested in your experiences with ND grad and 10/15 stop NDs. I’ve recently invested in a 907x and plan to build out my XCD lens lineup. I presently have the 45p, but intend to add the 30mm soon and either the 80 or 120 macro in future. Mostly, I’m shooting landscapes and nature, plus family ‘documentary’ images. I’ve used the Lee75 system for a few years on my mirrorless APSC system (Fuji XT3) and this system works on the 45p but will not be sufficient for other lenses. So, I’m in the market — or will be when I add another lens.

I’ve enjoyed the Lee filter but I do find the 10 and 15 stop NDs colour shift. The Lee “ProGlass“ series are very neutral — but very expensive. So, before jumping in on a Lee100 system, I thought I’d seek advice here. What filters do you all use and do you find the colour shifting to be well controlled?

I look forward to your replies (and maybe even some sample images).

Iain
 

dj may

Well-known member
With respect to graduated ND filters, I find little use for them with modern digital cameras. I carry a 4-stop soft for extreme conditions, but I have not needed it for several years.

I do use 15- stop, 10-stop ND on occasion. I have used several brands and Haida has worked well.
 

Alan

Active member
I use Haida as well, 6 & 10 stop ND, 2 stop GND - NanoPro or the better Red Diamond versions. Very happy with the color neutrality and surface coating/durability.
 

dj may

Well-known member
I should add that ND filters, in addition to color neutrality should not impair image acuity. I have used neutral filters that had poor acuity. Haida passes that test.
 

FloatingLens

Well-known member
The strong LEE Stoppers tend to get very cool, true. Since I do a lot of b/w and film, this is not so much of a concern. Also 15-stop reduced images tend to get very stylised, so I would argue a system with color cast (LEE Grads are very neutral in my experience) is not a complete show stopper - no pun intended. Take a grey card with you to have a neutral reference to rectify it in post-processing since you are working digitally is my recommendation.

For those occasions where it is really critical, I've invested in the 10 stop ProGlass IRND and the results are a pleasure. I have more confidence in it also because it is coated for those shoot-into-the-light scenes (one thing less to worry about).
 
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