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Both the LX3 and Sigma's DP1 and DP2 can show the focus scale on the screen and all are CDAF, so it should be doable in some way.
Thanks Terry - that is a good point. I have the 7-14 on order. But it's a bit large. It would be nice to have a two-lens prime kit for walk around. It will probably end up being the 17/2.8 plus the 50 lux (or Voitlander 40/1.4).Mike,
I have the 12 and I put in on the camera last night but I was in bad light so I couldn't get good shots that would be usable for a test. I will try and do that tonight and you can have the RAW files to work with.
That being said, if yo need to go out and buy a new 12mm lens, I think the 7-14 is more versatile, faster (by one stop) and produces good results. I can take the same shots with both lenses for you.
That's because these lenses are inverted telephoto designs, which helps make angle of incidence at corners more orthogonal to the sensor plane.It should also be noted that not every wide angle has an issue. Many people use the 15/4.5 Voigtlander, the 28/1.9, and various 35mm wides with no corner issues on the micro 4/3s.
There are no lens hoods on the E-P1 price sheets, nor leather cases or straps. Here is the current list:Does anyone know when/if Olympus will have lens hoods for the 2 E-P1 lens? And, how much is the leather case and strap? thanks -Durr
With the MF Assist magnication, I can manually focus my G1 or the E-P1 on the LCD without my glasses at all ... and I am farsighted, wear progressive lenses normally. With the G1's EVF, I can focus the eyepiece with the diopter correction and not need my glasses at all, and even without doing that (since I usually do wear my glasses) it's easy to focus *without* using the MF Assist ... and a cinch with it.Thanks, Mike. That was a big help. I don't think the EP1 is a worthy substitute for the M8 quite yet. I do think they'll get there some day. Watch out, Leica.
One more point - if your vision isn't 20/20 there's another issue. If you're farsighted (you need reading glasses) then focusing through an M8 viewfinder is a piece of cake since your focus is distant. If you're using an LCD up close (arm's length or less) then you probably need your reading glasses to focus the camera. Switch this if you're nearsighted (need glasses for driving). I used to be nearsighted but got LASIK eye surgery a few years ago and love the fact that I don't have to wear glasses when using cameras with viewfinders (M8 and SLRs). When I use point-and-shoot cameras I rely on autofocus since I typically don't carry my reading glasses.