The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

Looking for some super telephoto help

sog1927

Member
Steve,
I thought only the orange dot versions, with a few exceptions, worked in the X bodies. An HC 300 needs the dot, I believe. The 150/3.2 N definitely does. The 100/2.2 doesn’t. Only NON-orange dot HC lenses work on the Leica S.

I think…. If I’m wrong and an older 300/4.5 would work on the X2D… that could be bad. I liked that lens on the S, but sold it in favor of the 350/5.6 SA.
Matt, define "work"? I haven't tried it (my only HC lens is an orange dot), but I thought everything worked except the autofocus with the older lenses and the X bodies. You're limited to 1/800, though.
 

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Matt, define "work"? I haven't tried it (my only HC lens is an orange dot), but I thought everything worked except the autofocus with the older lenses and the X bodies. You're limited to 1/800, though.
It may well just be AF. I’m not complaining (much). It just seems ironic that they’ll AF on the Leica and Fuji but not on the X2D. If and when the X2D gets decent MF assist, I’ll not mind at all.
 

anyone

Well-known member
+1 for the Superachromat 350. It's not only sharp, but also lightweight. If that is important to you, it is a really good choice. As mentioned before, the APO 1.4 teleconverter leads to no noticeable image degradation. You can also use it with your Cambo with the benefit of using shift.
 

Greg Haag

Well-known member
You can also use it with your Cambo with the benefit of using shift.
That's a very interesting option that I had not been thinking about, I wonder how well that combination would work? Also, if the lens is mounted on the tripod is there too much stress on lens adaptor with the weight of the Cambo and digital black? I wonder if you could take a dovetail plate for astrophotography and adapt it to support both?
 
Last edited:

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
That's a very interesting option that I had not been thinking about, I wonder how well that combination would work? Also, if the lens is mounted on the tripod is there too much stress on lens adaptor with the weight of the Cambo and digital black?
@jng has that setup. He uses a long lens rail, so both lens and camera are supported. The results are spectacular. (and heavily influenced my choice of the 350/5.6 SA) He uses RRS, I use Hejnar. Both are really solid.
 

anyone

Well-known member
That's a very interesting option that I had not been thinking about, I wonder how well that combination would work? Also, if the lens is mounted on the tripod is there too much stress on lens adaptor with the weight of the Cambo and digital black?
I haven‘t been overly concerned by the weight since the V bodies are also not that lightweight. To minimize shake I use a Manfrotto Long lens support under the camera as additional stabilisation. And a RRS long lens support rail on the lens side.
 

robmac

Well-known member
Any and all HC/D lens, dot or not, work on the X as follows:

No Dot: Manual focus only. Max 1/800 sync. UNLESS it's of very late just-pre-dot manufacture that can take a firmware upgrade, then AF but still 1/800 sync.
Dot: AF will work, 1/2000 sync.

IIRC, the only exception to the above 'rules' is the 120M I/II - manual focus only, dot or no.


Steve,
I thought only the orange dot versions, with a few exceptions, worked in the X bodies. An HC 300 needs the dot, I believe. The 150/3.2 N definitely does. The 100/2.2 doesn’t. Only NON-orange dot HC lenses work on the Leica S.

I think…. If I’m wrong and an older 300/4.5 would work on the X2D… that could be bad. I liked that lens on the S, but sold it in favor of the 350/5.6 SA.
 
Last edited:

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Any and all HC/D lens, dot or not, work on the X as follows:

No Dot: Manual focus only. Max 1/800 sync. UNLESS it's of very late just-pre-dot manufacture that can take a firmware upgrade, then AF but still 1/800 sync.
Dot: AF will work, 1/2000 sync.

IIRC, the only exception to the above 'rules' is the 120M I/II - manual focus only, dot or no.
Thank you for the clarification. I will shut up about Hasselblad now! :)
 

Greg Haag

Well-known member
@jng has that setup. He uses a long lens rail, so both lens and camera are supported. The results are spectacular. (and heavily influenced my choice of the 350/5.6 SA) He uses RRS, I use Hejnar. Both are really solid.
Thanks Matt, I may message John and see if he has a picture of his setup.
 

jng

Well-known member
A little late to the party here...

I echo previous comments touting the 350 Superachromat + APO 1.4XE. I use the RRS long rail to support the camera body when using the Cambo - there's just too much mass hanging off the end, although I forgo the rail when using the much lighter Hassy X2D. Here's a pic of the contraption:

John
 

robmac

Well-known member
LOL. If of any help, here's a blog post where someone tested the X1DII while using the HC 300 in Africa. Includes a couple of shots.


Having used a wide variety of HC/D lenses on the GFX and now the X1DII, two big advantages of the X over the GFX in that regard are: a) the deeper RH grip on the X makes holding the longer H lenses easier and b) it's not stop-down metering. On the GFX, you control the aperture via a control dial, BUT it immediately stops down. Which can make focusing harder and can often mandate LV preview. On the X it's only as you trip the shutter.


Thank you for the clarification. I will shut up about Hasselblad now! :)
 
Last edited:

Steve Hendrix

Well-known member
A little late to the party here...

I echo previous comments touting the 350 Superachromat + APO 1.4XE. I use the RRS long rail to support the camera body when using the Cambo - there's just too much mass hanging off the end, although I forgo the rail when using the much lighter Hassy X2D. Here's a pic of the contraption:
by John Ngai, on Flickr

John
I should mention that there are (3) adapters available from Cambo for Hasselblad V lenses and Mamiya/Phase One/Schneider BR lenses that fit the Cambo WRS bodies. There are (2) adapters for the Hasselblad lenses, one that has a built-in cocking mechanism. This opens up strobe use as the leaf shutter of the lens can be in play and also moving objects, and the less expensive version has no cocking mechanism, so the Electronic Shutter of your digital back would have to be in play (no, or limited strobe, and nothing large moving in the scene).

The Mamiya adapter fits legacy Mamiya lenses, but also the newer Phase One/Schneider BR variants (no aperture control, however on any lenses without a physical aperture control ring).

$1,259 - Cambo Hasselblad V Lens Adapter with Shutter Activator
https://digitalback.com/collections/cambo-wide-rs/products/cambo-wrs-hvsa-lens-plate-with-shutter-activation

$744 - Cambo Hasselblad V Lens Adapter (no Shutter Activator)

$744 - Cambo Mamiya/Phase/Schneider Lens Adapter (no aperture control without physical aperture control ring)
https://digitalback.com/collections/cambo-wide-rs/products/cambo-wrs-m645-lensplate-with-mamiya-645-bayonet-mount

You have shift on all these lenses - not a ton, but a respectable amount (most in the range of 7mm - 9mm).


Steve Hendrix/CI
 

anyone

Well-known member
.. and to add the third party adapters that allow using the shutter of the lenses sold on Ebay. I have one of those.
 

jng

Well-known member
I should mention that there are (3) adapters available from Cambo for Hasselblad V lenses and Mamiya/Phase One/Schneider BR lenses that fit the Cambo WRS bodies. There are (2) adapters for the Hasselblad lenses, one that has a built-in cocking mechanism. This opens up strobe use as the leaf shutter of the lens can be in play and also moving objects, and the less expensive version has no cocking mechanism, so the Electronic Shutter of your digital back would have to be in play (no, or limited strobe, and nothing large moving in the scene).

The Mamiya adapter fits legacy Mamiya lenses, but also the newer Phase One/Schneider BR variants (no aperture control, however on any lenses without a physical aperture control ring).

$1,259 - Cambo Hasselblad V Lens Adapter with Shutter Activator
https://digitalback.com/collections/cambo-wide-rs/products/cambo-wrs-hvsa-lens-plate-with-shutter-activation

$744 - Cambo Hasselblad V Lens Adapter (no Shutter Activator)

$744 - Cambo Mamiya/Phase/Schneider Lens Adapter (no aperture control without physical aperture control ring)
https://digitalback.com/collections/cambo-wide-rs/products/cambo-wrs-m645-lensplate-with-mamiya-645-bayonet-mount

You have shift on all these lenses - not a ton, but a respectable amount (most in the range of 7mm - 9mm).


Steve Hendrix/CI
Thanks for providing the additional info, Steve. I had issues with flare with the shutter cocking adapter from Cambo. I also found a weakness in the cocking mechanism itself when using the teleconverter, which I think introduces additional resistance (admittedly an unusual use case so not casting any aspersions here).

The non-cocking version is quite serviceable but be prepared to recock the shutter when dismounting from a teleconverter or extension tube (can use a screwdriver, coin, or better yet a tool made for this purpose sold by Fotodiox).

As with all adapters be sure that the lens actually locks in place.

.. and to add the third party adapters that allow using the shutter of the lenses sold on Ebay. I have one of those.
Indeed this is what I use - sold by Liszt Studio (?) - basically a lens mount and cocking mechanism cannibalized from a Flexbody mated to a Cambo lens plate. These come up from time to time on his eBay store. Works like a charm.

John
 

Steve Hendrix

Well-known member
Thanks for providing the additional info, Steve. I had issues with flare with the shutter cocking adapter from Cambo. I also found a weakness in the cocking mechanism itself when using the teleconverter, which I think introduces additional resistance (admittedly an unusual use case so not casting any aspersions here).

The non-cocking version is quite serviceable but be prepared to recock the shutter when dismounting from a teleconverter or extension tube (can use a screwdriver, coin, or better yet a tool made for this purpose sold by Fotodiox).

As with all adapters be sure that the lens actually locks in place.



Indeed this is what I use - sold by Liszt Studio (?) - basically a lens mount and cocking mechanism cannibalized from a Flexbody mated to a Cambo lens plate. These come up from time to time on his eBay store. Works like a charm.

John

Hi John - Cambo has made a revision to the product that has the built-in shutter activator and it is much improved. Regarding the flare, I've not had any reports from any other users of this product about flare, we'd be happy to look at this situation if you still have it.


Steve Hendrix/CI
 

algrove

Well-known member
FWIW, I have used the Mamiya 645 500mm lens with adapter on my 100S while at Sebring last year shooting racing cars coming at me at high speeds. Try to dig up some examples. I did not find them any worse than using the XF 250 with 1.4x on the 100S, however the 500 was manual focus. Also have the interesting 24mm ULD 645 Mamiya lens which gives a slight fisheye feel to the image, but can easily be straightened with software. I posted an image on here using my 50R with that lens at an old steam engine house while the engineer was greasing the fittings after a run. I do not use an elaborate adapter since I use the Kipon. I also have the Mamiya 2x adapter for use with the 500. Fun stuff.

Since I know you I would be happy to send it long for a fun try. I keep an 105mm filter on it.
 
Last edited:

algrove

Well-known member
Mamiya 645 500mm lens on Fuji 100S. The folds in the plastic Mobil 1 sign are even visible in the white area. ISO 1600 and 1/2000. They are in the braking zone while coming down from 150-180 to still over 100mph. Just, now looks at C1 adjustments and I did very little--Shadows +47 and H/L -66. No sharpening or NR in these images other than default.

_GFX1009.jpg_GFX1023.jpg
 
Last edited:

f6cvalkyrie

Well-known member
Did anyone mention this ?
" Zeiss Tele-Apotessar 500mm F/8 HFT for Mamiya 645 "

There is one on sale @ the evilbay right now ...
(not related to Ebay nor the seller, located in South Korea, apparently)

CU,
Rafael
 
Top