Don Ellis
Member
One thing macro photography does is show you all the lint and every scratch… but only after you’ve taken the shot. So it’s really time to Brasso this crystal and clean the watch up a bit (and maybe shoot it in a light tent, etc., etc). But I’ll post it anyway for its instructional value…
Sigma DP2, ISO200 (camera chose it; I wasn’t paying attention), 0.6 secs, f/14 (I was paying attention)… click for full-size image...
I discovered macro photography in 2001 with my Canon G1 and, later, the G2. So after buying the obligatory 3-filter Hoya macro set (+1, +2, +4), I discovered those were a little limiting and bought two Hoya 2-element +10 macro filters and two B+W +5 macro filters.
Later on, I moved on to the Canon Pro 1 and G9, with their 58mm requirements, so all my 49mm filters have been sitting on the shelf ever since. When I got the DP2, I bought a 46-49mm step ring at the same time so I could try these filters and they work beautifully.
This shot was taken with +13 diopters (two 10s and a 3). I finally found a reason to have the original 3-filter set: it allows you to fine-tune the focusing so you can fill the frame with whatever you’re shooting.
In another experiment, I stacked two 10s and a 5 for a total of 1.125 inches worth of glass and I still get no vignetting. Add to that fact that I have 49mm polarizers and neutral density filters and it’s like getting a custom filter kit free with my new camera.
I mention all this just to say that there are other solutions to Sigma’s AMD-1, especially if you’d like to get closer.
One proviso here… the filters work the same way on the DP2 that they do on my G1 and G2: you must be very close to the subject, which can mean blocking your light source if you’re too close, or getting stung if you’re photographing wasps. On the Pro 1 and the G9, I use the Canon 500D and 250D Macro Lenses which allow you about 15 inches of distance between the lens and your subject.
Don
P.S. The second hand jumps five times every second, so in 0.6 seconds, you can expect three jumps... which appear in the photo. It's more obvious in the large version.
And one more thing I've noticed about DP2 images... you can bump the image up 2, 3, 4, even 5 times magnification in Photoshop to check out some tiny detail and the image still looks quite good, unlike the rapid pixelation I'm used to with my other cameras.
Sigma DP2, ISO200 (camera chose it; I wasn’t paying attention), 0.6 secs, f/14 (I was paying attention)… click for full-size image...
I discovered macro photography in 2001 with my Canon G1 and, later, the G2. So after buying the obligatory 3-filter Hoya macro set (+1, +2, +4), I discovered those were a little limiting and bought two Hoya 2-element +10 macro filters and two B+W +5 macro filters.
Later on, I moved on to the Canon Pro 1 and G9, with their 58mm requirements, so all my 49mm filters have been sitting on the shelf ever since. When I got the DP2, I bought a 46-49mm step ring at the same time so I could try these filters and they work beautifully.
This shot was taken with +13 diopters (two 10s and a 3). I finally found a reason to have the original 3-filter set: it allows you to fine-tune the focusing so you can fill the frame with whatever you’re shooting.
In another experiment, I stacked two 10s and a 5 for a total of 1.125 inches worth of glass and I still get no vignetting. Add to that fact that I have 49mm polarizers and neutral density filters and it’s like getting a custom filter kit free with my new camera.
I mention all this just to say that there are other solutions to Sigma’s AMD-1, especially if you’d like to get closer.
One proviso here… the filters work the same way on the DP2 that they do on my G1 and G2: you must be very close to the subject, which can mean blocking your light source if you’re too close, or getting stung if you’re photographing wasps. On the Pro 1 and the G9, I use the Canon 500D and 250D Macro Lenses which allow you about 15 inches of distance between the lens and your subject.
Don
P.S. The second hand jumps five times every second, so in 0.6 seconds, you can expect three jumps... which appear in the photo. It's more obvious in the large version.
And one more thing I've noticed about DP2 images... you can bump the image up 2, 3, 4, even 5 times magnification in Photoshop to check out some tiny detail and the image still looks quite good, unlike the rapid pixelation I'm used to with my other cameras.