There is a guy named Jon on FM selling a version with a serial number starting with 751. Very nice guy, I hope to buy his from him a bit later in the year. Would that mean his a version before the optical formula changed? Also, I think that's a great idea @FloatingLens ! I'm sure this thread will help future photographers decide which version of the lens to buy when they are looking around.
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Question about using Hasselblad F/FE lenses with a digital back
- Thread starter nikesteam
- Start date
Likely so. Per Nordin, the 751 block of s/n were 1995-96 production. There is a date estimator online also at... http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HW/HWLds.aspx
FloatingLens
Well-known member
I've create a new thread here @nikestream:
Follow-up on Hasselblad F/FE lenses: definitive guide to Planar 110 generations
Gentlemen!!! I have a BIG question for you! I just noticed that some people are plugging their backs directly into their bodies, instead of plugging it into their lens. Obviously new to all of this, so I have a ton of questions. Some bodies have the ports and some do not (see the pictures).
Take a look at this video:
He is plugging the back directly into the body, rather than the lens. Does anyone else shoot like this? What are these ports? Why do some have them, some have one, and some have two?
Take a look at this video:
He is plugging the back directly into the body, rather than the lens. Does anyone else shoot like this? What are these ports? Why do some have them, some have one, and some have two?
Attachments
Thank you for providing this. @FloatingLens is this what you meant when you were saying you can sync it with the auxiliary shutter?
Hello,
thinking about resurrecting this thread a bit. I've been using Hasselblad 205fcc with Phase One P20 and P45+ for some time now and always wondered about the possibilities to use them together with FE lenses.
To my knowledge, P1 back needs 2 signals from the body/lens. 1st one is the activation signal, which is delivered by a lever protruding from the body to the back (the one which normally checks whether the film body slide is out and the film can be exposed). The second signal comes normally from the lens shutter and lasts until the shutter closure.
One can set the lens shutter to "B" on a 20X body and use the focal plane shutter instead of the leaf shutter in the lens.
That made me thinking about a device, which would deliver the signal to the back just for the duration of the time the release is pressed on the body.
Long story short, after some time tinkering with my son's 3D printer, multiple design trials and failures and a bit of soldering, I ended just with that.
The orange lever presses the trigger and after initiating the actual picture-taking sequence, it activates a micro-switch which takes care ot the 2nd signal to the back. The signal is routed to the PC sync socket on the device and then by the standard PC sync to 2.5mm jack cable to the P1 back. Everything is connected to a 3D printed Arca Swiss foot.
Appreciate this all sounds quite complicated and requires a lot of fiddling as the tolerances in the firing sequence timing are quite small. On the other hand, I can confirm after a month of using, it actually works quite well. Not always 100% but okay for me.
I certainly had a lot of fun during the process and enjoy the results.
jr
thinking about resurrecting this thread a bit. I've been using Hasselblad 205fcc with Phase One P20 and P45+ for some time now and always wondered about the possibilities to use them together with FE lenses.
To my knowledge, P1 back needs 2 signals from the body/lens. 1st one is the activation signal, which is delivered by a lever protruding from the body to the back (the one which normally checks whether the film body slide is out and the film can be exposed). The second signal comes normally from the lens shutter and lasts until the shutter closure.
One can set the lens shutter to "B" on a 20X body and use the focal plane shutter instead of the leaf shutter in the lens.
That made me thinking about a device, which would deliver the signal to the back just for the duration of the time the release is pressed on the body.
Long story short, after some time tinkering with my son's 3D printer, multiple design trials and failures and a bit of soldering, I ended just with that.
The orange lever presses the trigger and after initiating the actual picture-taking sequence, it activates a micro-switch which takes care ot the 2nd signal to the back. The signal is routed to the PC sync socket on the device and then by the standard PC sync to 2.5mm jack cable to the P1 back. Everything is connected to a 3D printed Arca Swiss foot.
Appreciate this all sounds quite complicated and requires a lot of fiddling as the tolerances in the firing sequence timing are quite small. On the other hand, I can confirm after a month of using, it actually works quite well. Not always 100% but okay for me.
I certainly had a lot of fun during the process and enjoy the results.
jr
I've been shooting a 203fe for decades, and I've never noticed that - even when I considered a 2nd hand Phase back some years ago!
The CFV backs have 2 sets of contacts, one for the 200 series bus and one for the ELD bus.
The Phase back I looked at had 2 sets of contacts, one for vertical mounting and one for horizontal mounting, both for the ELD bus.
That's what happens when you don't pay enough attention to details.
The CFV backs have 2 sets of contacts, one for the 200 series bus and one for the ELD bus.
The Phase back I looked at had 2 sets of contacts, one for vertical mounting and one for horizontal mounting, both for the ELD bus.
That's what happens when you don't pay enough attention to details.