I've been searching all over looking for a good carrying case for my setup. Whenever I see something on the forums, people have disconnected the lens from the body, and the body from the sensor, and then put it all into a case. I'd like to see if I can keep my setup of Hassey 907x-cfv ii 50c + xcd 21mm Lens and not have to take it apart for the case. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also, I see a lot of people use soft cases, which to me is not workable. That's no protection. I'd be happy to see examples of hard cases or some good carrying method people have come up with.
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Suggestions for Carrying Case for Hassey 907x-cfv ii 50c + xcd 21mm Lens
- Thread starter emilediaz
- Start date
Godfrey
Well-known member
For a shooting shoulder bag, the Billingham "Alice" L2 is perfect for carrying just the 907x + XCD 21mm, with a big front pocket for accessories (batteries, remote, etc).
Another bag that works well if I'm going to do a lot of walking with a minimal 907x/21mm camera kit is a Wotancraft MiniRider sling bag. Again, room for the camera and a modest set of small accessories.
For a hard case, get yourself over to the Pelican website and find a case the size you need for whatever it is you want to carry along with the 907x. I have a Pelican 1510 series rollaway case with a custom-made foam insert for various different equipment kits.
G
Another bag that works well if I'm going to do a lot of walking with a minimal 907x/21mm camera kit is a Wotancraft MiniRider sling bag. Again, room for the camera and a modest set of small accessories.
For a hard case, get yourself over to the Pelican website and find a case the size you need for whatever it is you want to carry along with the 907x. I have a Pelican 1510 series rollaway case with a custom-made foam insert for various different equipment kits.
G
TechTalk
Well-known member
Pelican style cases are excellent protection, widely used, and readily available. My personal favorite "hard cases", which are suitable for checking on an airline or shipping, are Lightware cases and Tenba Air cases. Lightware cases, in particular, may not be easy to find these days, but are worth a look.
I second a Pelican for hard case--lots of sizes and different configurations for your equipment. For a soft case, I use a Think Tank Retrospective 10 v 2.0 for my 907x 50c II with my 21mm and 45p. A really good soft and padded case to have the lense connected to the camera and ready to make images. Good luck in our pursuit the right bag.
Elm: Is it too much to ask to have you post a pic of how you are configuring the inside of the "Think Tank Retrospective 10 v 2.0" for 907x 50c II +21mm while keeping the lens attached? I am looking to buy that bag but it seems a bit flimsy. I am sure I am wrong and would love to see how you have it set up.
Thanks a lot.
ED
rdeloe
Well-known member
I have a couple ThinkTank Retrospective bags. They're not flimsy at all.
The ThinkTank bags are all excellent, I have 3 of the Retrospective series: 7, 20 and 30. The 30 holds my Hy6 with a lens and back attached and room for extra batteries, lens cleaning supplies, etc. However all those bags are soft bags which you seemed to have ruled out in your original post. ThinkTank also makes the Airport series of roller bags that are not quite hard cases like the Pelican, but quite strong. An alternative to Pelican is the Italian-made Explorer hard case that come in several sizes. And there are companies like https://mycasebuilder.com that will custom-cut foam inserts.
rdeloe
Well-known member
ThinkTank bags are soft-sided, but the outer fabric is thick and tough, and there's lots of padding. This makes them quite heavy, relatively speaking, which some people don't like. I appreciated the trade-off: a bit of extra weight for a lot of extra protection.
If custom cutting foam is an option, I can highly recommend a product called Kaizen foam. It comes in sheets of various thicknesses. It's very easy to cut. If you work slowly, you can cut neat, snug compartments for all your bits and pieces. If you need more thickness, you can glue two of the thick sheets together. Mind you, this is a solution for a case or bag that you can lay flat so you lift things out. This is an example of a custom foam carrier for my Toyo VX23D. It fits inside a pack and provides excellent protection.
If custom cutting foam is an option, I can highly recommend a product called Kaizen foam. It comes in sheets of various thicknesses. It's very easy to cut. If you work slowly, you can cut neat, snug compartments for all your bits and pieces. If you need more thickness, you can glue two of the thick sheets together. Mind you, this is a solution for a case or bag that you can lay flat so you lift things out. This is an example of a custom foam carrier for my Toyo VX23D. It fits inside a pack and provides excellent protection.
Designing0212
New member
Hi Rob, I know you first made this custom foam fitting a few years ago. Can I ask how it's holding up? Does the foam rub off or erode as it rubs itself against the bag as you walk?
rdeloe
Well-known member
It is surprisingly durable considering that it is an open cell foam. On the outside, I wrapped it with a strong tape, which creates a skin that completely protects it. However, most of the compartments could not be wrapped that way, so they are subject to the regular friction that comes with inserting and withdrawing the pieces. They have held up very well. For example, I had a little compartment for my GFX 50R body, which experienced a lot of friction as I pushed it in and pulled it out. There is very little wear.
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Designing0212
New member
Thank you for the feedback. I might I might go the same route as you then. I saw a youtube video of a guy applying 3 coats of Flex Seal that sealed the foam and created rubber "skin" over the foam blocks, I might still do that to the open face, but I'll just tape the backside with tape like you.
Here's the video in case anyone is curious:
One thing that is nice about Explorer cases is they have a system of flat-wrapped dividers with elastic straps that have velcro hooks on each end to hold things in place. Unless you have odd-shaped gear, they are pretty simple to configure and no worry about crumbling foam.
