I don't use Pec Pads at all - they are too linty and and don't absorb well. And those "gummy bears on a stick" cleaners may be great when new, but can actually leave a thin residue layer that causes weird ghosting patterns on the sensor when they get older which will require multiple wet cleanings to remove. You can see the residue with a microscope, but it's usually not visible to the naked eye or using a sensor cleaning loupe. And it doesn't matter how many times you clean the gummy, it'll just start to stamp junk onto the sensor. I had some that I tried for a field cleaning solution, in case junk got on to the sensor outside the studio. I threw them away after a few uses because they were causing more problems than they were worth.
The best clean you can do is to avoid cleaning at all... at least avoid physically touching the sensor unless absolutely necessary.
I clean all my backs with the same method and I do this on a daily basis before any shoot in studio or before I leave to go on location:
1) blast across the surface of the sensor with Chemtronics UltraJet "canned air". I don't use a blower bulb as the air is too slow. I use the type of UltraJet that can be fired in any position and won't eject liquid ever
2) inspect with stereo microscope with ringlight illuminator for stuck dust - this is continually done throughout the session. The back pretty much stays under the scope during the cleaning operation
3) use Fujikura CS-1 fiber optic cleaning/polishing swabs to dislodge sticky particles
4) blast again across the surface with canned air.
Usually, that is all that is needed for the backs. For other times where more work is needed:
5) if surface needs cleaned further, grab a "woven wipe", in my case, fiber optic cleaning pads, and wet wipe with solvent using old VisibleDust swab, credit card cut and smoothed, or other paddle to maintain thin edge contact with sensor. Don't use Pec Pads or if you do, don't ever cut them - they'll lint like crazy and they don't hold debris well.
6) you can use Eclipse as the solvent, but be very aware that it is highly hydroscopic. So once a bottle has been opened, it may work great for the a few cleans and suddenly start streaking as it starts to absorb water out of the air. Buy small bottles and throw away often.
7) don't clean in a overly humid environment, despite what armchair warriors want to tell you. The humid air will condense into the solution, onto the exposed sensor, and streak or leave residue.
8) use barely any solvent on the pad. If you can clearly see the cleaner on the sensor, you're using waaay too much. Also, allow the solvent to naturally penetrate the pad before you wipe, don't be in a hurry.
9) allow to dry *naturally*. Don't blow or breathe on the sensor - it can add crap to the surface.
10) touch up any spots with CS-1 swabs in solvent - and allow to dry again
11) use CS-1 swabs to polish any spots that appear (dry swab, light drags)
12) give final blow across the surface of the sensor with Ultrajet
13) immediately cover back or return to camera body