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What is the cheapest way to try a canon EF lens with Phase one back?

espelancer

Active member
I have a Canon EF TSE lens that I would like to try out with IQ4. I am currently on Arca Swiss R. I don’t want to buy the Canon board and change the board on the camera. It is very tight on my camera. I wonder is there a cheap device that I can get to use with the canon lens?
 

diggles

Well-known member
You could connect a Canon lens by combining a few different inexpensive adapters. You will still need a way to set the aperture on the lens before you mount it to the the camera since there will not be any electronic connection to control it.

EOS to M42 (cheaper option, but requires additional M42 to M65 adapter)

M42 to M65

EOS to M65 (more expensive option, but does not require additional adapter)

M65 to HBLD V (the M65 thread will screw into this)

R Lens Board - Hasselblad V Bayonet

These pieces will at least connect the lens to the camera, but I haven't worked out the spacing to know if the thickness of these adapters will provide you with the distance needed for infinity focus. If you need more space between the lens and back then there are M65mm spacers that can be purchased to help you get the right distance. If you need less space between the lens and back then this approach won't work.
 

espelancer

Active member
It would be great if it works. But if it ever work, I wonder why Arca Swiss doesn’t produce an adapter directly. :)
BTW, I think Hassy V flange distance is 74.9mm, Canon EF is 44mm. But with 44mm, it seems possible to just make an adapter with the R mount
 

Paul Spinnler

Well-known member
You can use the Silex from Alpa to control aperture easily, but it is not a cheap solution.

Jeffrey Totaro uses the FPS to control the TSE17.

Dumb adapters are not ideal workflow wise, especially if you don't shoot wide-open.
 

rdeloe

Well-known member
Some people who adapted the Nikon PCE 19mm to GFX used dumb adapters, but locked the aperture to the one they wanted to use by putting the lens on a Nikon body, setting the aperture, and then removing the lens from the body. I think the trick was to pull the battery of the Nikon camera, preventing it from powering down properly and setting the aperture to the default.

Does this work on Canon EF bodies too? I have no clue but perhaps someone knows. It's a heck of a kludge, but if you're only going to shoot the thing at f/8 anyway, you could set it to f8 and use it as a single aperture lens.
 

4x5Australian

Well-known member
Does this work on Canon EF bodies too? I have no clue but perhaps someone knows. It's a heck of a kludge, but if you're only going to shoot the thing at f/8 anyway, you could set it to f8 and use it as a single aperture lens.
Yes, my Canon TS-E 24 Mk2 was set at f/11 using a similar trick. I used it for one small job - shooting unfinished apartment interiors - on my Fuji GFX 50R on an inexpensive Canon EF to Fuji GFX dumb adapter. Here's the link to K&F's website, but it's readily available on eBay.

Link: Manual lens adapter ring EOS-GFX - K&F CONCEPT

Rod
 

Steve Hendrix

Well-known member
It's certainly viable to use a lens with no aperture control by locking the aperture at the one most commonly used (there are various ways of doing this, depending upon the camera system). I have several clients who also do this with Phase One Blue Ring lenses on Alpa and Cambo bodies. The biggest downside to me is - beside the cubersomeness of changing the aperture on a separate body, should nyou desire to - that your focusing is set at the (typically) stopped down aperture, which can make things challenging to determine the core focus area.


Steve Hendrix/CI
 

Paul Spinnler

Well-known member
It's certainly viable to use a lens with no aperture control by locking the aperture at the one most commonly used (there are various ways of doing this, depending upon the camera system). I have several clients who also do this with Phase One Blue Ring lenses on Alpa and Cambo bodies. The biggest downside to me is - beside the cubersomeness of changing the aperture on a separate body, should nyou desire to - that your focusing is set at the (typically) stopped down aperture, which can make things challenging to determine the core focus area.


Steve Hendrix/CI
Besides making it difficult if lighting conditions are not ideal and you want to shoot between F8-F11
 
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