Thanks Jack and thanks for your noticing the color cast.Definitely looking better now, but as you say, still a bit there. Very nicely seen :thumbs:
Best,
Bob
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Thanks Jack and thanks for your noticing the color cast.Definitely looking better now, but as you say, still a bit there. Very nicely seen :thumbs:
Thank you Bob for that additional information. Do you have the 6 degree or the 12 degree adapter? And I was wondering if you had anything to say about the difference between the two. I suppose the 6 degree gives better control for fine adjustments, at the expense of not allow for as much tilt/swing. Thanks again for your comments.Hi Peter,
I used it quite a bit. As a matter of fact, I was surprised how much more I used the 80 over the 35. I think it's because the shifting makes the 80 into about a 53mm in 6x6 terms.
The T/S was terrific; I used it in images nr. 1, 2, 3, 6, 7 and 8. Just about every shot. Using it with shift was perfect; great near/far capabilities. As I'm not familiar (and probably not patient enough) for focus blending, the tilt worked perfectly.
I also liked the fact that I could turn it 90 deg to make it a swing adapter too. Though I didn't end up with many images using this swing approach, I will work on it more. I'll use the swing with rise fall.
Finally, being able to put the tilt on either the front (lens) or rear (back) side gives me more options on controlling perspective. Using it on the rear slightly emphasizes the foreground, which I often like. But sometimes (in the river shot, that isn't desirable so putting it on the front works best.
Hope this helps,
Bob
Hi Peter,Do you have the 6 degree or the 12 degree adapter? And I was wondering if you had anything to say about the difference between the two. I suppose the 6 degree gives better control for fine adjustments, at the expense of not allow for as much tilt/swing. Thanks again for your comments.
Cheers, -Peter
If you can give me an email address, I can attach the spreadsheet I made for your review.Hi rga,
I had a question about your mention of the shift with the 80mm lens. You mentioned that the shift on the 80mm lens makes an equivalent 53mm lens. Can you tell me how this works? This would help me in selecting lenses for use with tilt functions.
Smoothjaz,SmoothJazz: we (Capture Integration) also have an automatic calculator spreadsheet where you select your digital back and lens and it will show the equivalent lens with and without stitching. Contact me at [email protected]
Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
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... and there is the Alpa Focal Lens Calculator:
http://www.alpa.ch/de/products/tools/alpa-tools/alpa-comparable-focal-length-calculator.html
Chris
No sprit level reading of any gear like CUBE , ARCA , ALPA or whatever camera or QR gear of any brand you use , compares to another .
Many scenes do not require a very precise leveling , but some , for example in architecture photography , do .
My method with the ALPA STC is , that I ignore the reading of CUBE or STC and use my EBISU CRYSTAL LEVEL and measure directly at the camera body . 3 ways ! ! ! if required .
Have a look to EBISU CRYSTAL LEVEL ED-10CLS in internet .
Leveling this way takes a bit more time , but is very precise , as much as you can achieve with a 10cm long spirit level .
If you use an ALPA with a Short Barel lens , it is very easy .